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  1. Ladmanlow Sidings and other C&HPR locations
    Ladmanlow Sidings and other C&HPR locations

    I've been inspired by a number of layouts recently to attempt some overgrown trackwork.


    So I  decided that the siding on the latest module would be rarely used and therefore overgrown.


    First thing was to mask off the rails and sleepers, as grass rarely grows on them.







    Then the first layer of 1mm static grass was applied to neat PVA:




    After the excess was hoovered up, hairspray was applied and some 2mm grass was added:




    Then the masking was removed, and some 4mm grass was added further from the junction:




    And finally some 10mm fibres were added:




    Here's what it looks like with all the layers:







    Gradually more overgrown, the further you get from the junction.


    I decided to leave the paint on the rail head as well, so that it looks like rusty track.


    I'll leave that to dry a bit, then see what some rolling stock looks like on it.


    Thanks for looking,



  2. Nile's NG Modelling
    Nile's NG Modelling

    Thanks William, in this case I used Revell Dark Green acrylic (363). I t was the closest I could find to the rest of the loco. Humbrol acrylics also get a look in at times.

  3. The Light
    The Light

    I have been progressing the carriage build.


    I decided to paint the interior partitions and seats, and the passengers prior to assembly. I also adapted the seats for the first class with deeper cushions, wings and armrests formed from DAS.








    Tonight i did a mock assembly of the body to see how the details will look once the body is assembled. Not bad I reckon.




    I then traced the plan of the roof details onto the assembled roof




    Next will be the carriage lighting. After that the instructions suggest assembling the body before painting and glazing, but I think I might paint and glaze the sides before I assemble the body.

  4. Black Drake Wharf
    Black Drake Wharf

    I've been trying to figure out for myself your process for producing such wonderful brickwork on the factory buildings, but -


     I think I'm going to have to ask you to run through this if you wouldn't mind, please!


    Looks like a base coat of brick colour, followed by a light wash of Sandstone masonry paint for mortar, followed by painting a variety of ? onto each individual brick?


    I've actually used a couple of different methods. First the buildings are given a coat of good quality flat matt emulsion paint from testers brought in the usually DIY outlets, the sandstone paint in the picture is used for the stonework but is a bit too coarse for mortar, For the factories I have used either Laura Ashley Powder Grey or Craig & Rose Tintern Stone, previously I have also used colours from the Farrow & Ball range. I have tried the cheaper emulsions from Crown, Dulux etc., but they seem to flake off plastic or resin surfaces during the second stage of the process.


    For the Northlight style factory the brick colour was added using pencil crayons in a limited range of reds & browns. The ones I have are from the Faber Castell range, these are rubbed across the surface of the bricks holding the crayon at an angle, so the colour goes on the face of the bricks, but doesn't go into the mortar courses. Talcum powder is then 'pounced' onto the surface using an old large brush and then brushed / blown off. This has the effect of blending the colours and also matting the surface. For a more weathered finish, weathering powders could replace the talc. The 'muck' on the windows is a mix of talc & grey weathering powder.


    Initially I used this process on the larger factory building, but I wasn't entirely happy with the result, so some of the bricks were then overpainted with thinned Humbrol 70 Brick Red which darkens them, but still allows some of the original colour to shown through to provide some variation. I then went over the brickwork with some more talc. The brick arches above the windows were coloured using a grey crayon and the stonework is the smooth finish Weathershield sandstone.


    For a building in the centre of the back scene I am experimenting with painting the bricks with brick red paint and then rubbing the crayons over them to add variety and depth of colour, before using the talc.


    Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more info,



  5. Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins
    Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

    Can I add to your troubles?


    BR80 and Kerr Stuart Joffre or Decauville Progres. Little and Large.




  6. Industrial conversion from 0-6-0 Jouef tank
    Industrial conversion from 0-6-0 Jouef tank

    Hi all,


    I know this is a little basic, but I thought I would share with you a conversion I have almost finished on one of the 0-6-0 Jouef tanks we have seen on theese pages before.


    I love the chassis under the model and looking through my collection of drawings and photos I realised I wasnt to far off some of the Hudswell Clarkes I really like.


    Anyway after a bit of  hacking at the original body, removing the cab and various other details I have constructed new tank sides and ends, cab and bunker along with addidng some fitting sfrom the scrap box. I know it isnt perfect, but for a cheap and easy project it was most fun and has kept me busy since my fall of a locomtive as I have required two weeks off my feet.


    Anyway, some photos below, nameplates and worksplates are on order and once final painting and varnishing are done and a roof made I think it will look quite handsome.








    Thanks for looking.



  7. Copper Wort
    Copper Wort

    After a lot of experimentation we have arrived at the following conclusion for the setts colouring. The original colouring idea of an enamel wash pictured on an area in the August post on page 5 was removed as the wash tended to give a mushy finish so I started again. 


    Ground setts were originally laid at Bass brewery using Mountsorrell setts which although light grey colour would of had a very slight pinkish tone in them. The following technique was originally tried out on a section using pink (dark tan polish) but the contrast was too severe, so I removed the finish for the second time and started again. 


    For the final version I painted the top surface with a mix of Humbrol enamel 64 light grey and 33 white, trying not to fill the joints, before lining all the joints with Humbrol tank grey 67 / earth 29. This gave a flat but sharply defined 2D finish. Then when dry and using a clear shoe polish and Humbrol weathering powder brushed on the polish/weathering mix. After a severe buffing-off with a soft cloth the surface will be sealed with Humbrol Satin Cote varnish. This took it up to the 3D finish as pictured below. The weathering/polish mix tended to fill in the tiny surface blemishes and dressed the edges of the setts where the painting had (purposely) missed.  This was all Julie's idea.


    The trackwork on the second picture has been ballasted with fine sand laid dry. Pva /water 50/50 eye dropped on, before painting on a thinned coat of Humbrol 67/29 enamel mix and dry brushing off when dry with Humbrol 110 wood / 64 light grey. The rail sides are painted in Humbrol tan 62. Ballasting in these yards would have been done using gravel and ash I believe, as proper large stone ballast was reserved for the proper railways elsewhere..




  8. OKWB - Kato Portram evolves to a Lister
    OKWB - Kato Portram evolves to a Lister



    I've only just found the photo's, meant to post my efforts about a month ago.........


    Firstly, curiosity got the better of me and I just had to have a look inside, this allowed me to solder to the pickups without risking meltdown. Also I wanted to feed the wires out of the end of the chassis in order to attach a resistor. After a bit of trial and error I settled on 470 ohms, this gives about the same top speed once the Kato circuit board has been removed. Said resistor is hidden inside the white heatshrink sleeving. I then had to grind a couple of slots out of the footplate underside for the wires.





    Next I set about soldering up as much as was safe to do without other bits dropping off in the process. Detailing is an assortment of plasticard sections and various thicknesses of brass wire, the lifting eyes are thinned down handrail knobs. Curtains on the canopy fitted one are tissue paper painted with thinned down PVA to make them a bit more durable. The tissue is then scrunched up and flattened out again before being rolled up and superglued into place.





    Finally a lick of green paint with a little oil staining around the bonnet and some mud and dust elsewhere. The driver was sustituted with a figure from Montys Models, I used their 'MSV53, Marine Worker' and adjusted one arm and leg to line up with the pedal and brake wheel.




  9. The missing Link or Just Mucking About
    The missing Link or Just Mucking About

    Ok, thought I would start on painting the Muck Works, my process is as follows:


    1. All over base coat of Tamiya Deck Tan Acrylic, this is the mortar and Asbestos Cladding

    2. Base Coat for the Stone work of Tamiya Flat dark Earth

    3. Dry Brush over the Brick Work using Humbrol Brick Red.

    More to Follow as I progress. ;)






  10. Wellington Street
    Wellington Street

    Road surfaced albeit still not quite finished but a mjor improvement to white card. Surface is sandpaper over sprayed with black and the thin washes of grey. Checkrails still to be weathered.



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