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down the sdjr

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Blog Comments posted by down the sdjr

    Barry Ten

    Posted

    Nice to see the S&D taking over a Western line for a change. Glad you made the switch, looking forward to seeing some more.

    When i was a lad growing up in Blandford we use to call it Stour pain. I love the southern section of the S&D, the line between Sturminster Newton and Blandford are almost perfect branchline model railway stuff and still a lot to be seen today. My favourite spot is this three arch bridge in the middle of nowhere just outside the Blandford bypass.

     

    IMG_3166.JPG.7755d6c88e110d77a306b5c39ec6e12e.JPG

    • Like 1
    PaternosterRow

    Posted

    18 minutes ago, PaternosterRow said:

     

    Cheers for the advice. I have tried long exposure with light trickery before.  Below is one I did a few years ago.  It was a small shadow box layout (a quarter of a roundhouse scene with a mirror at one side) using car headlight bulbs positioned above pinholes in the roof.  There is a few more pics somewhere in my blog.  

     

    I have read about DOF and F Stop settings, but it’s difficult to understand if you are an amateur like me.  I tried out the white balance thing today and will post tomorrow.  I do have a true zoom on the bridge and will also be sure to have a go to see if it improves the focus.

     

    image.jpeg.c17fb11d927062009d8dc8d079e0c0f2.jpeg

    Great photo.

    • Agree 2
    • Thanks 1
    PaternosterRow

    Posted

    Nice photos,

    Multi layer with about 25 different focal points is how pro model photographers do it i believe. Nice thread on here somewhere all about that using Photoshop.

    I am like you and prefer standard shots, never got them as good as yours here. I have a modern smart phone than takes better depth photos than my oldish Canon SLR, amazing how far phone cameras have developed.

    down the sdjr

    Posted · Edited by down the sdjr

    3 hours ago, hayfield said:

    I can always email a PDF if you give me details of radii and crossing angle

    Thats a very kind offer. Of course being a newbie i am unsure of those measurements or how to take them. The instructions with the CL b6 kit says i can cut the template to form the curve, i am not sure how well i could do that.

    Here is a pic ot the place i was thinking of putting it in with the toe end to the left.

    Thanks again for your informative posts.

     

     

    IMG_20200517_145432.jpg

    down the sdjr

    Posted

    Hi Hayfield.

    I am a member of the EM gauge society. Thats a nice bit of kit, really solid for a newbie like me.

    Track building really appeals to me, would love to build a curved station throat at some point. i have a unbuilt CL crossing that i fancy building with a slight curve in it, maybe something you have done on your thread?

    Thanks.

    down the sdjr

    Posted

    I have been removing plastic and changing axles to get the wheels from binding on my wagons, squared up the driving wheels and i am pleased to say the Jinty pulls the goods train around my curves nice and slow. Really happy.

    I am now going to finish fiing the crank pins down and weather the chassis.

     

     

    IMG_20200512_124219.jpg

    • Like 2
    down the sdjr

    Posted · Edited by down the sdjr

    8 hours ago, hayfield said:

    I will let you into a secret, I try not to use them, every time I do they end up with a bend in the centre

    I was thinking about this today. I thought i would try to make a tie bar out of some left over nickel silver and epoxy it to the rails with a hole drilled in the centre for a pin from a servo motor.

    Thanks again for another informative post.

    Paul.

    down the sdjr

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Fen End Pit said:

    One thing I did find with rewheeling stock to P4 (and I guess the same is true of EM) is that quite often the proprietary pin-point axles are often a different length to the ones you get for EM and P4. I found I got much better running swapping the wheels onto the original Hornby/Bachmann/Oxford axles, even though you obviously need to put the wheels on with a back-to-back gauge. 

    Thank you Fen End Pit, that would explain why i have removed so much plastic from the chassis of wagons and the wheels are still binding. I was starting to think they were binding in the cups.

    down the sdjr

    Posted

    Hi #hayfield

    Thank you for that very informative post.

    I have already started looking for damaged locos etc.

    I had to buy a lot of tools to do this (you need the right tool to do the right job etc) and have decided to stick to internal pistons for now, 3f 0-6-0 , 4f etc.

    As you can probably guess i messed up an expensive Bachmann 3MT during the learning curve but, i hope i can rescue it later on.

    PS, i still have not soldered that C&L tie bar to the point yet.....

     

    down the sdjr

    Posted · Edited by down the sdjr

    10 minutes ago, brossard said:

    Further than me too.  Converting wagons and coaches is no problem.  Even building turnouts I could manage.  Converting locos with splashers is another thing altogether.  I couldn't reconcile using wheels that rely on friction fit to the axles so tried Markits.  Amazing what a fraction of a mm will do to you.

     

    Anyway, I switched to 7mm about 4 yrs ago.  Finescale 0 runs on track gauge of 4' 6" ish so is equivalent to EM.

     

    John

    It was the realistic track gauge in 0 that led me to EM, i thought about a piano plan track in 0 but the space available is only 10 x 1ish feet and with B6 points its still a tight fit including the curves at each end.

    Edit to add clarity, the curves will run from a fiddle yard to reverse loop in a U shape but the visible part is 10 x 1.

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