Haggerleases

Would the RCH w irons etc. have been a later mod? What would the vehicle have been built with?

Thanks all, that's great. I will crack on with that.

Hi Paul. Which ones do I need out of the link you posted?

Hi all. I'm very new to the hobby, and busy soldering up this kit, https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/nbrd067/. And so far, It's going really well, however, the kit has these, https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/shop/wagons/nbrc015/ which I've fitted, but I've decided I want my wheels to be sprung. Can anyone point me to exactly what I need to purchase to do this? Something that will fit in between these axleguards and enable both axles to be sprung. Can someone point me in the right direction? Perhaps a link to exactly what I need? Kind regards Haggerleases.

Anyone got a sample of the random stone paper they could upload now we're on a roll?

Ask and ye shall receive! Thanks chaps, something to play with! Nice one.

I love a challenge...Hmm, the holy grail of brick papers lol. Surely it's not beyond the wit of man to reproduce this stuff. Someone produced it once, and with a great deal less tech than we have now.

Hi all. I know this stuff is like the proverbial rocking horse poo to get hold of, but does anyone have a sheet of either of these two ('smokey brick', and 'random stone') that they can scan and send as a file? I know reproduction of colour is difficult, as is finding the right paper, but I am willing to try, and if necessary accept the results, or even attempt to reproduce them from scratch. I have access to some very high end facilities through work. Can anyone assist? I'm guessing copyright no longer an issue? Failing that, does anyone know of a close modern substitute?

Hello all. I wonder if anyone knows what happened to Anthony Murray's 7mm scale Scottish 'Dean Bridge' layout, as featured in Model Railway Constructor, and several outer annuals, books and magazines. He had some beautiful locos by the likes of Stanley Beeson etc. as well as ones he had constructed himself. The layout looked quite atmospheric. I wonder if it, or any of the locos or stock are still extant? Regards Haggerleases.

Izzy. Thanks so much for that comprehensive reply. I appreciate your effort. I was starting to think it was the composition of the chairs, so you may very well be right. I am going to get hold of some c&l chairs and see if they work any better. I guess if I don't figure out the issue I'll always wonder what caused it. Hand in pocket again lol.

Oh dear. After my reasonable trial results the other day, I made a length of track at the weekend. Pre-loaded the sleepers with butanone, added a decent smear of 'Poly Pipe' adhesive, put the rail with the pre-threaded chairs on the sleepers after painting a little butanone on each, more butanone on the sleeper after fitting to wick its way in, weighted it down etc. Looked great. Felt quite pleased with myself. Left it 12 hours or so to be safe, picked it up off the template and the thing basically fell to bits in my hand. Disaster. I think I'm going to have to admit defeat very soon. I need my track to be way more durable than this. my EMGS bullhead rail pulls out of the chairs very easily too.. I think I may be doing something fundamentally wrong, though I can't think what. Back to the good old soldering iron at this rate.

Cheers Martin, that's an excellent help, thank you for that. I'll have a look through the topic and see if I can hone my technique.

I'm a member of both EMGS and Scalefour societies, so I'm sure I'll dig them out from the various sheets. Steep learning curve, but worth the effort. Thanks fellas.

Martin. I'm normally an instruction follower of the highest order, but I've looked in vain on the Exactoscale website for any instructions on gluing chairs. Where on the site are you seeing this?

Hi chaps. Bit of success today. I used the Polypipe stuff. Brushed it onto a sleeper let it dry, then put a few chairs on with mek/butanone or whatever they're calling it this week. Worked much better. I couldn't budge them sideways, but could still (with more of a struggle this time) lift it off with a fingernail. The chair had bonded to the layer of polypipe adhesive, which had bonded to the ply. I think the polypipe stuff may need a little thinning. It is quite thick and gloopy. I think a factor is the temperature in my converted attic man cave causing the MEK to 'flash off' too fast. I'll continue the experiment in a cooler room and report back.