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  1. Ok then, 3rd time lucky! The second attempt ended up with a massive hump in it where the Gorilla glue had expanded and pushed up as I didn't put enough weight on top. I decided to abandon the idea of layering the foam and just stick to one top layer on honeycomb card stilts. I also got a pair of servo mounts from eBay as mine were being a little problematic. The new version has 2 microswitches for frog polarity which means there's always a period when the point is changing that the frog and blades are completely isolated from the rest which has cured the shorting issues I was having. After some trial and error and a sprinkle of code modification I've got a fully working layout that I can control entirely from my phone Next step will be building up the embankment, initially from foam offcuts probably, then I'll blend it all in with either DAS clay or filler.
  2. Still waiting on the styrofoam so been working on a few bits over the weekend. First up the 3d printed servo/microswitch mount. Not properly tried this yet so I don't know how it'll work but I'm quite pleased with how it's come out. And I popped the Wills Good Store kit together, painted up in faded BR WR colours. This has a little LED in and a basic interior of a few crates, sacks etc. Nice kit.
  3. Hoookay. That wasn't working lol. The flooring underlay I used purely because it was hanging around taking up space was just not up to the job. It was quite thin and flimsy so warped quite a lot, plus the PVA I used to laminate the sheets was still wet in the middle due to the back layer of each panel being a vapour barrier. I now have some proper blue styrofoam on the way, some Gorrilla glue to stick it all together, and I've also taken the time to try out a servo & microswitch mount design rather than just gluing the things to the baseboard and hoping they don't ping off lol. More on that soon!
  4. Thanks guys! More progress made yesterday, got everything powered up and working, and the track stuck down. Next job will be fairing in the embankments with filler. I also printed out the first of the 'light features'. This is designed to replace the Fire Devil from the Ratio water crane kit and will accept a 3mm flickering yellow LED.
  5. I've been hankering after another micro lockdown project after finishing Frost's Mill, I had another Billy Bookcase shelf left over so came up with a few ideas of what to do with it. My plan is to build another Inglenook, this time with decent Peco track instead of the Hornby settrack I had to use on the last one, along with DCC servo point control and frog switching. I managed to snag probably the last pair of Code 75 wye points in existence a couple of weeks back and since then I've been picking up a few other bits - a Wills occupational bridge, good store & a Ratio water crane set. I won't be doing anything quite as adventurous as Frost's Mill, I'm having initial thoughts of setting the layout on an embankment somewhere in Wales, all fairly bleak, dark & wintry. I picked the name 'Garnswllt' for no other reason than I've built some mimic diagrams for Welsh Water for that location as part of my Job a few years back, the layout itself is not based on any real location. I have a couple of working lamps on the way and I also want to fit the Goods Store with lighting, as well as having a few 3d printed braziers and a Fire Devil flickering away to hopefully create some decent atmosphere. Made a bit of a start over the last couple of days. I've built up an embankment from some flooring underlay and started carving out space underneath for all the electronic gubbins. I did manage to get it wired up and working last night too so more updates soon!
  6. Thanks again Steve! Much appreciated! I presume the checkout/download process went without a hitch? I've added a terms of usage to the website for STLs, usual stuff, do whatever you want with it except sell it/prints of it really. I use Chitubox with my Photon to slice the files, it looks like it has a Mac version .
  7. I also bought one of Bill's systems last year and have more recently got into using it properly. It can be slightly buggy but it's a brilliantly cheap way into it. As you mentioned, I love having the android app as it means you can add text to each function button, and properly name each loco address so you're not having to faff round remembering what's what. I've also just got an Arduino servo controller board from him in the last week for an upcoming project which works in tandem with the DCC system and app for up to 10 servo controlled points, and 8 LEDs. A quick test proved it all worked flawlessly. Very impressed.
  8. If anybody is interested, I'm trialling an online store where I've made a couple of STL files available for a few squids. I don't know if I'll keep it going past the 3 month free trial but thought it was worth a try. There's also a few prints for sale on there too. https://echorangemodels.co.uk/
  9. Picked up a pair of Pecketts last week from Clark Railworks. Unfortunately the W4 had to go back for repair as the coupling rods sheared a pin after a few hours on the rolling road, which is oddly very similar to what happened to the last W4 I had. The B2 though is rather lovely. While I had the thing apart I hardwired a Zimo MX617 in there, as well as grinding out a slot in the backhead to pass a stayalive wire through to accommodate a medium Laisdcc one which I reckon I should be able to fit inside the coal bunker. After de-branding/naming with white spirit, most of the main weathering was done with light passes of various heavily thinned browns through the AB, trying to go for a used but not completely abused look. I then spent a few hours adding some Wilder Aqualine weathering pigments to the loco, mainly 3 different rusts and their common dust. Citadel Nuln Oil wash was used for the wet streaks down the saddle tank, and oily bits elsewhere. I managed to knock both safety valves off in the process and could only find one so I've got a brass replacement coming from RT Models which should be rather nice. The Smith 3 links were cut down and slotted into the holes left behind from the plastic hooks with CA glue. I ordered a pair of crew from Modelu last week originally intended to go in a Dean Goods but as that ran like a bag bucket of spanners and is off back to Gaugemaster for a refund, I decided to rehome them. Also got to try out one of their new loco detailing packs which is bloody lovely.
  10. They're Caboose Industries N Scale levers. I bought them a few years back for another project and ended up with 2 spare, put them away and then couldn't find them when I started Frost's Mill so had to use a pair of Peco Dummy 009 levers instead. Turns out the Caboose Ind. ones were in the same drawer, just hadn't looked hard enough lol.
  11. Thanks Steve! A) Tbh it was easy peasy, the plastic Hornby hooks pull out with pliers. The shank of the 3-link hook was clipped off leaving a few mm which was then lightly filed down on the top and bottom so it would slide into the hole left in the bufferbeam. I then just popped them in with a blob of superglue. I can't comment on how they'd handle a full train but these wagons aren't light and they show no signs of giving up yet. B) I have, though I'm still not sure of the route I'll go down. The issue is simply the time it takes to print them (these are around 12hrs per section) so I'm not sure how cost effective it would be to sell them as prints, but I'd possibly go down the route of making the STL files avaliable. I have thought about it tbh, it does look great. I may treat myself to a set at some point. Sure, I'll try and get you some ASAP.
  12. Surprised to find the Terrier wheels arrived yesterday so I was able to get the 50550 99% complete. It still needs a matt coat, crew, and works plates swapping over from the old body. The wheels look pretty nice with the gib & cotter rods.
  13. Thanks Steve! It's a brilliant tool to have even of it feels a bit like cheating
  14. I've been playing around with my 15 year old Hornby J94 for the last year or so since properly getting back into railway modelling. I resprayed it into an industrial example, weathered it, added some etched plates, real coal etc and was generally fairly happy with it as it ran stunningly well. I decided to put a Zimo MX617 chip in it, along with a stayalive last week and in doing so the lower plastic section finally gave up the ghost and the screw holes started to crumble away. I didn't want to condemn it as the rest was sound so popped a post up in the wanted section and an hour later had secured a mint condition replacement thanks to a very kind forum member! Not being one to keep anything in factory condition, I set about the body with the intention of turning it into a rough representation of a Hunslet 50550. It's been covered on the forum before, but the main thing I wanted to do was get rid of the awful saddle tank seam, so figured I might as well go the whole hog and convert it while I'm at it. One of the biggest visual differences is the use of gib and cotter coupling rods. I had a go at printing some and though they are overscale due to having to make them fit the pins, incredibly they seem to work alright. These will be added to a set of Hornby Terrier wheels which are a closer match to 50550 wheels and are a drop in fit. The chunkier front and rear bufferbeams were next, these were superglued in place after razor sawing the old ones off. The rear bunker was also modified to give the characteristic slope seen on 50550s, as well as a replacement 3d printed cab rear to give the square windows. Next, I sawed off the bottoms of the saddle tank sides, actually much easier than I thought. These were then grafted onto teh upper part, filled and sanded smooth. Finally, a Markits smokebox dart finishes off the face quite nicely. The whole thing was then primed with Hycote primer, checked for any issues, then painted with a custom mix of a horrendous NCB green, to be toned down with heavy weathering. It's not quite as Kawasaki Ninja-like in real life lol.
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