Jump to content

MikeTrice

Members
  • Content Count

    2,814
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4,710 Excellent

3 Followers

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Depends on what you need to drill. For small sizes I would use a pin vice.
  2. These might help. Apologies to everyone else.
  3. That will teach me not to check before posting. The Stone's system was initially available in 16 and 24 volts. It was ampage that increased over time.
  4. There were two charging systems on LNER Coaches, Stone's and Vickers. Stone's typically had two battery box containers and Vicker's one with regulator box. As time progressed the output of the various dynamos changed. From memory Stone's progressed from 12 volt to 24 volt systems.
  5. Many thanks for those. Very helpful. BTW The banding on the moulding might benefit from a coat of Halfords' Filler Primer before any attempt at rubbing down.
  6. Thanks for this. It appears to be 2mm too narrow based on the cuttout of the original body so it looks as if the later chassis is wider at this point than the original. The rear ridge at the back of the body parallel with the drawbeam I am seriously thinking of taking off. I would be interested to hear in more detail the other changes you had to make.
  7. Looks doable but I would have to request an additional £25 towards the postage.
  8. I have tried 10% and 20% and did not notice any difference when used with Anycubic resin.
  9. I will investigate postage costs and come back to you.
  10. Comparison showing the difference between the standard Bachmann body (rear) and the Tony modified Comet version (front): Something else I meant to point out if fitting a Comet chassis. The etched cross support is too far back for some reason (possibly to avoid shorting out the wheelsets) and will foul the body. The printed body includes a representation of the cross support in the correct position so builders have two choices with the Comet chassis: Solder the cross piece to the chassis then cut off the extensions beyond the frames and keep the moulded representations. Snip off the moulded representations and cut a slot in the body, or file the etching to notch it more, to accommodate the etching (as Tony did).
  11. As no one else has jumped in I will try and give you some ideas but my experience of different resins is limited. First off, the bewildering descriptions for the resins: Standard: Basic ABS-Like: Stronger but still quite brittle Rapid: Cures at shorter exposure settings Tough: Less brittle and as suggested stronger. Can often be machined Resistant: No idea Flex: Flexible So lots of different resins which in the current Covid crisis are extremely hard to source. The Anycubic Basic Grey is I think ABS-Like and is my first choice of resin. Unfortunately it has been out of stock in the Grey form for a while (unless you are prepared to pay extra to buy the 500ml bottles) and I have recently had to use White. Elegoo do a standard and an ABS-Like version. When I could not get my preferred Anycubic Grey I did buy a couple of bottles of Elegoo ABS_Like. It printed OK but I did not like it as moulding seemed to remain sticky on post curing and the uncured resin is quite runny and needed constant stirring to keep it mixed (not possible on a big print job). If you want a tough resin the one everyone raves over is Siraya Tech Blu. I suspect this is the one worth looking into for wheels based on reviews. Warping seems to occur when the resin shrinks slightly. Different resins have different shrinkage rates and this can also be affected by the exposure settings used during printing. Some shapes it is almost impossible to stop warping however there are a couple of dodges that can be used to reduce this: Place warped item in near boiling water, straighten, and put under cold tap. This seems to remove a lot of the stresses that cause the warping. Add to the model various cross bars that are left in place until the model has cured, then cut them off. Leave the model on the support structure to cure. I have used all three at various times. For wagon bodies I would try a simple open box with the Anycubic resin and see how it reacts. I have an Anycubic Photon and there are a lot of similarities to the Elegoo Mars including some shared components. I have recently replaced my LCD screen with an Elegoo one and likewise am now using Elegoo FEP sheets in my Photon. Elegoo parts are usually cheaper. The best advice I can give you is to join the relevant owners' groups on Facebook. A lot of people are present on both the Photon and the Mars groups. In addition to problem solving they are often trying new resins out and reporting back.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.