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MikeTrice

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Everything posted by MikeTrice

  1. Does the warping occur during printing or on curing? If the later try curing with the pieces under water.
  2. Those supports look pretty good. From your earlier print it looks as if the bottom supports are failing so for a real belt and braces approach you can add some light supports along the rear edge thus (shown in red) and perhaps some more further up: As you currently have it the bottom edge is currently only supported by the bottom supports and it is not until it gets to the upper supports that any strength is given to supporting the sides (each time the print is pulled off of the FEP the bottom supports are taking all the strain including the piece trying to straighten upward
  3. Just a thought. What ambient temperature are you printing at? Resin needs to print above 20 degrees c (need to check for the resin you are using), anything lower and it becomes more viscous restricting draining. It still looks like insufficiant supports being used as well.
  4. The original piece is recessed both sides so I don't think flat on the bed would work. You will also get a suction effect when pulling off of the FEP. Near vertical would be my choice. As you guess clear resin will transmit UV and could result in uncured trapped resin being cured especially if too high an exposure time is used. Near vertical would improve drainage of the resin considerably.
  5. The Mono X is currently showing as £457 however as soon as you select it and choose a colour(?) it jumps to £542. Reinstated my previous order of $699.20 which equates to £525. All very strange.
  6. AliExpress is not the most intuitive site. Somehow I bought in USD which works out a fair bit more than if I had ordered in GBP (unless the price is still falling). Have requested a cancellation and if successful will reorder in GBP.
  7. Yes Amazon were not the cheapest. Got mine from AliExpress for US $699.20 with free shipping from France with a 2 week lead time.
  8. Hmmm! I seem to have bought a Mono X and way under the Amazon price.
  9. If the slicer assumes layers 0.01mm high and the printer's OS overrides it to 0.025mm wouldn't that result in the print being 2.5 times too high? The number of layers would not change.
  10. I have certainly done it once in the past and it worked fine but I could not be bothered last time I changed it and did it by feel.
  11. Overall height of GNR equivalent is 12' 8 5/8" (compared to LNER 12'6") with the roof being 2' 2 1/8" high.
  12. The giveaway, apart from a physical gap between the solebars and body, is the lower 2" has a groove along its centre which the GAs reproduce:
  13. I got fed up keep trying to determine the vertical heights from the GA's so ended up producing the following reference:
  14. As you say very difficult to determine and I spent too many hours trying to work everything out. First of all there are two different heights of the sides depending on whether the body is resting on rubber pads on the underframe or not. 6'5 7/8" is the correct height of the body sides including the cornice where no rubber pads have been used (the cornice is 2 1/2"). For bodies with the rubber pads there is a 7/8" gap and the sides are reduced accordingly.
  15. I have two led nail curing lamps. Both work fine. One of them can leave the leds on permanently which is useful but can be forgotten. Make sure they are 405 wavelength. My machine is out in the garage and gets pretty cold. I used to leave the build plate, resin vat and resin on an indoor radiator to warm things up however lately I have been using a hot air gun for a quick warm up. I have reverted back to 90s for the bottom layers which helps in the colder weather (I managed to get down to 60s during the summer). Once the machine has started printing, the LED array produces a degree
  16. I may owe you an apology. Isinglass uses the same drawing for D155, D256, D288 and D298 but mentions that the D155s did not have the extra vents on the corridor side. Whether they were modified in later life as I stated is still a possibility.
  17. Neither did the composites. They were added later. D298 from 1939 had them from the start so it could be one of these.
  18. Not true. It is I believe a D155 corridor third built from 1934 onwards. A composite would have different width panels between the windows whereas the photo appears to have even spaced panels.
  19. I don't have a lot in the way of photos being mainly a carriage person but I do have these if of use: B1: N2: Henry Oakley: A1 GA: J6 GA:
  20. Armed with that information these might help as well:
  21. For the V2s the door stop was built in to the door hinges.
  22. I started a crosskit earlier in the year using Comet Gresely D186 sides with an MJT floorpan. To achieve a removable floor and fixed roof I did the following. Marked and drilled a mounting hole in each end of the floorpan: The ends were snapped off and a length of brass angle soldered on including a brass nut: The ends could then be screwed to the floorpan simulating the original floorpan design albeit with removable ends: The Comet sides had a length of brass strip soldered to along the top edge to act as a straightener and giv
  23. Evostik is usually the glue to use. Beware extremes of temperature as the brass and plastic will expand at different rates and may result in fracturing the super glued joint. Evostik has a bit more give in it.
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