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MikeTrice

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Everything posted by MikeTrice

  1. I have posted images here: https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/threads/gresley-carriages-in-detail.9809/post-280489
  2. It might be worth ensuring that the brick height is an exact multiple of the layer height, likewise the mortar courses.
  3. Following my earlier posting I have rescanned the appropriate reference with scanning auto settings turned off and the equivalent BSI colour sample for comparison.
  4. They were done over 22 years ago. I cannot recall why certain decisions were made at the time.
  5. Both slicers allow you to view the path of the print head. Prusa slicer seemed to generate far more travel movements than Cura for some reason. As far as I know I had the same travel/retraction settings in both. Personally, I prefer to break the bodies down into a kit of parts as it allows me to orientate each to get best print quality.
  6. I changed from Prusa slicer to Cura which made a big difference.
  7. For PLA I use Deluxe Plastic Magic or EMA Plastic Weld
  8. Curiouser and curiouser. There is a clearer image in the Transport Library of the same image. What is more obvious in the Transport Library image is there is a chute below the opening. Given that it is positioned in line with the roof coal hatch I wonder if it is a way of loading coal from platform level.
  9. @rkathe attached might be useful. It includes the correct profile reproduced in 4mm scale as well as some underframe details (however not for the Buffet Cars). Open the pdf and print at 100% on A4. Gresley End Profile 4mm.pdf
  10. Following on from my earlier post about reprofiling the original Kirk ends I have made some further adjustments. My filed beading has been removed from the top along with some of the moulded in beading. A new top cornice has been added and the now mising end beading replaced with 0.5mm rod. A dimension plate and jumper cables have also been added.
  11. A thought. If you are going the scribe a groove on the reverse of the door there is a likelihood of breaking right through to the existing half-etch so it might be worth soldering a strip of brass across the half-etch first. Hope that makes sense.
  12. You need something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125555319520?hash=item1d3bae22e0:g:hmEAAOSw509jQ8wL&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4OFBRK2JlwJ75qld1m5OYIabUfSSm%2BQX7wfQCMaXlMpuizi%2FETlm8RKiBAdWpVGymv39XISqj244ri6SYyO%2BqLxLnUxmGB6m2yaYTeIzPoiwG4mcouUM4avZNngYNvZQd3QA8PX5rqIpnIYKFTDMCaJdZFUuJcH47ntLdP70Z2swzt3V337Wr9sgjB0Zvc%2FWXCUPx7jWUqfZ%2FMEmiSfnaoQsrlZLtqgCQiHMisS1X6hO9TSlctSpxXPqN%2F29puTiCShSfPSbEGyRON1MIK2aixzVCcrfULRK24LSs2h1S9is|tkp%3ABk9SR7Cq0pqUYg You can also make up your own from old hacksaw blades. Search for "Scrawker".
  13. Use the marker pen on the etching, turn over then rub on some fine wet and dry and the high spots will appear as those areas with the marker pen removed. Keep rubbing until all the original surface is visible.
  14. Daft question. Could you not have simply reversed the doors so the panels were on the inside?
  15. The 3D printed ends are a bit of a diversion. They were just to avoid me having to use my one remaining original Kirk end. It is actually quicker to modify the original end as detailed than to print a replacement.
  16. I am not sure about Thingiverse but I might be prepared to upload here. Gresley End FDM v04.stl
  17. I don't think they would be viable. None of the techniques mentioned lend themselves to volume production.
  18. Some earlier posters have commented on the incorrect roof profile where the ex-Kirk 61'6" Gresley's are concerned. To me this has always made them stand out a mile and I can spot one in an instant. In the past I have successfully cross kitted Kirk sides with an MJT roof and cast ends. One thing I have never tried, until now, is the obvious one of modifying the Kirk mouldings themselves. So as a starting point here is a Kirk end against a scaled GA drawing: Note how much shorter this is which results in a too short corridor connector and when viewed from the side too big a curve to the roof. The first step was to build up the height of the end with styrene. I used Evergreen .080" x .156": The addition was then filed back to the correct shape including at this point the end beading: Now I have a confession to make. I should have included in the above modification the cornice that edges the roof. I managed to find one single Kirk end and some pre-used sides that I could just about cobble together to prove if this approach works, however I decided at this point ot print out using my FDM printer some replacement ends rather than use my last Kirk original. The carriage body was then assembled after filing back the moulding draft along the top edge, adding a piece of 20thou styrene to restore the height of the side and cutting back the supplied roof to fit behind the extended ends: The joint between the cut back supplied roof and extended ends was then filled with Milliput and sanded smooth. The transformation is obvious and the side profile is much improved in the process: Yes I cheated by using a new coach end, however I have proved that it is perfectly viable to modify the supplied Kirk mouldings to correct the most glaring error in the kits. Hopefully one day the new owners might be in a position to retool the roofs and ends to make this unnecessary.
  19. My guess is they are downpipes to drain water from the roof gutters.
  20. From what I can see panel variation did occur for non-teak coaches however this seems far less marked with Thompson coaches. Simulated teak was subject to several coats of varnish as part of its application so would suffer similar aging effects to the varnish over time. Unlike teak, water would not soak into the metal and discolour it.
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