MikeTrice

From what I can see panel variation did occur for non-teak coaches however this seems far less marked with Thompson coaches. Simulated teak was subject to several coats of varnish as part of its application so would suffer similar aging effects to the varnish over time. Unlike teak, water would not soak into the metal and discolour it.

Highly recommended.

There are lots of suggestions in the following topic. The photos were lost long ago but the relevant information is still there: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/15815-using-a-ruling-pen/#comment-148103

Attached is an early attempt at printing a V2 body. Note the deformation around the front of the smokebox. The way the normal printing process works is a section of the model is exposed against the FEP and then gets pulled up ready for repositioning for the next layer. The print is stuck to the FEP and peels away. This takes a certain amount of force and as the FEP is flexible it will effectively bow. The force and amount of bowing is dependent on the area of the current layer against the FEP. If the print encounters a sudden change in cross section when printing the additional required force and bowing of the FEP can cause surface blemished to appear. In the case of the V2 the hollow smokebox suddenly encounters the additional area of the smokebox door and results in the distortion shown. To resolve I had to modify the model to radius the inside transition from smokebox to smokebox door effectively smoothing out the sudden change. Changing the angle of the print might work, it all depends on what you are trying to print. As @Durley states distortion could occur when encountering a wagon floor and removing the floor might solve the issue:

If you have not already done so it is worth joining a Facebook group catering for the Photon Mono.

This very poor quality image shows the inner end of the set complete with short buffers and lack of couplings:

The screw that raises and lowers the build plate. I use a white Lithium grease. The lines you are experiencing could be jerking of the lead screw which the grease will help avoid. It is also worth grabbing the build plate arm and seeing if there is any play when moving it up and down. If there is it could suggest fitting an anti backlash nut, or if one is already fitted, a better one.

Can I suggest you check the tension of the FEP and lubricate any lead screws?

The point is if left in the sun unpainted they will continue to cure.

Reminds me of the train scene in Our Hospitality with Buster Keaton:

You are correct, I overdid the increase. If you also remove the moulding draft from the top of the Kirk sides they need extending the compensate.

There has been discussions previously here:

I have posted the following image before. With Kirk kits a simple improvement is to remove the moulding draft from the window openings: The model on the left is as supplied. The one on the right has had the openings squared up. The roof has also been replaced as the Kirk ones are a bit top heavy.

On the open the sacrificial skirts are only needed for the parts facing the build plate. The rest are just wasting resin. Otherwise looking good.

To help illustrate the problem of vacuum I have taken the liberty of annotating your image: Note also how @stevel image shows the wagon is orientated open side towards the build plate. This avoids the vacuum issue. Edit: Regarding the vacuum issue consider a cup placed on the surface of water rim side down. When you try and lift it you can feel the suction effect. Placing the open side of the wagon towards the build plate there is no longer an unvented void to cause this. I generally try and print at 45 degrees. This would help ypur cattle wagon a lot but you could probably do with some support to the horizontal planks that are open. It should be possible to add some feeds to the inside of the wagon to help support them.

On the open wagon I suspect the issue is caused by suction as the body prints. Try turning it through 180 degrees so the supports feed into the top edge. Another option is to include some holes in the floor of the vehicle or leave the floor out altogether.

Apologies if this has been mentioned before but there are photos of GNR wagons with white rims and the LNER certainly adopted this for both wagons and carriages. In the dim distant past I think I heard it was to make detection of cracks in the tyres easier presumably on passing out of the respective works. As stated previously the white eventually became dirty.

With clothes pegs it is worth reversing some in their springs:

Most resin 3D prints use UV light to cure. If left under UV light (daylight) they will continue to cure long after printing and will get brittle. You need to keep them under cover initially until a coat of paint can be applied which should protect them.

I don't believe so.

For some reason they are double sprung at the front as seen here on Green Arrow:

Might also be worth looking into Toner Transfer Paper: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111793870005 or https://www.amazon.co.uk/10PCS-Toner-Transfer-Electronic-Prototype/dp/B09X4JXJNM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=93SDZ5MRVG24&keywords=toner+transfer+paper&qid=1679149861&sprefix=toner+transfer+paper%2Caps%2C78&sr=8-5

Is it worth trying a PCB Marker Pen to touch in the toner imperfections?

The model is in a glass cabinet near the floor so not easy to photograph. The label is not readable on my photos but this one at least shows the museum's reference number: https://www.deviantart.com/rlkitterman/art/1-16-LNER-Sentinel-Cammell-Steam-Railmotor-at-NRM-790380223 As far as I am aware the stoe in unaffected by the rebuilding works so should still be accessible to the public. Note the model does not appear to be lined.

This may not help but lurking in a cabinet in the NRM store is this large scale model of a railcar: