I followed Corbs' advice in painting the chassis, and got it done pretty easily. Took about 4 coats of green to get the colour consistent across the engine. 

After that, I just "painted the rest of the owl". I bought some proper masking tape to do the lining, and it came out a treat - much better than any previous attempt. Got some gold pain for the dome. Budda-bing-budda-boom. That's a Percy. I'm going to leave the numbering and lettering until i get my hands on some transfers. 

Next step, get on the kadee couplers, because that's what I've transitioned my stock to using, per the club I operate at. It was difficult due to how low the body sat on the chassis, so I couldn't use the standard box-mounted couplings. Instead, I had to butcher the chassis to get some no.19 NEM kadees to slip into it at the right height, then glue the whole thing together. Got a bit of glue in the coupler's pivot pin which was annoying because the way I put the whole thing together didn't exactly make the coupler removable...I'll see if it loosens up over time. 
 

And then with a few fixes, the whole thing is done  (or...will be. I keep spotting paint spots in these photos that I can't see in real life :\ )

 

Next step, get my original project, Thomas, on the kadee train. Also a weird job, but it came along nicely using the same technique. For both engines, I mutilated the tension-lock hoops during install so that I could gauge the correct distance for the knuckle. 

Thanks for reading, more to come soon

I got the painting technique from Mikkel.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/75/entry-8235-painting-coach-panels/

 

Two or three coats is enough with this paint (Pollyscale acrylic) depending how thin it is.

For the couplings I've used the hooks from the kit and added 3-links from Ambis. This needs the openings in the hooks enlarged slightly to allow the links to fit.

 

 

 

The bolster wagons, now with added bolsters. These are free to rotate.

 

 

The four finished wagons plus the previously featured brake van.

 

 

A short engineers train rolls through Wyndal.

 

 

I'm moving on to the LNWR coal wagons next.

 

The late, great,  John Hayes produced very fine etched models (from Finney kits and the like) with no evidence of visible solder. I once asked him how  he did it and he replied that he just used some scrapers made from old hacksaw blades to remove any excess solder. At our next meeting a few weeks later he presented me with a set of left and right handed scrapers and an "etch chisel" as shown on this rather poor photo.

 

 

 

To make things clearer I've attached a simple drawing showing the ground edge of the hacksaw blade (about 45 deg.) which creates the scraper edge (the opposite flat side is the "front" of the scraper). The scraper shapes lets you get at excess solder in corners, awkward places, etc. I've used them for many years and regard them as invaluable, finishing of with a glass fibre brush gives an excellent finish. This photos shows a LRM LNWR Bloomer 2-2-2 etched in .012" brass, soldered with 145 solder, cleaned up in this way.

 

 

JH scrapers.pdf

 

Yes, thin paint is the key. Thin enough so that it can flow a bit, and not dry too quickly. And keep the surface horizontal until it has visibly dried, to stop any runs.

18 minutes ago, Ravenser said:

 

some GN 6 wheelers, either as replacement bodies or a small expensive RTR range 

 

I think this is what Terry's looking for:

 

 

If he wants them RTR, I'm sure he could find a someone willing to build them for him, for the appropriate fee.

On 02/12/2019 at 12:52, Compound2632 said:

All the giraffe cars I've seen are bogie vehicles, not 4- or 6-wheelers. 

 

 

Well, I had to give up my mountain railway. Grades were so steep my locos could only haul a couple of cars each, and two locos burned up their motors. So, now it's NO grades, just some hills and such. Once again 24" by 48", using Peco Settrack. here's a couple of progress shots. I'm still including a sheep meadow and a stone henge from the previous world.

Shapeways 3D Printing has provided some valuable pieces; OO9 tunnel portals, a vertical boiler engine shell, and OO9 water tower among others.

 

Hi Alex. 

 

It's probably long over due that I write something up. 

 

Firstly, I do not possess an airbrush. 

 

Using the picture below; 

 

The five plank wagon was weathered with weathering powders (Humbrol ) following a dusting of the underframe with dark earth from a Humbrol aerosol. 

 

Refering to the powders by the Humbrol colours,  I start by applying rust and iron oxide powders to the metal areas. These are then toned down with smoke with some shading applied using black. 

 

Once happy, the powders are sealed with a LIGHT dusting of Humbrol acrylic Matt Varnish. This is sprayed from a distance so that it is probably almost dry when hitting the wagon. Too close/too wet and the colours will just merge. Disaster. ........I know this..

 

Once dry(seconds).......I remove the weathering, plank by plank using a 2mm fibre brush. Varying the pressure, will vary the colour of the individual planks. 

 

Once happy, I flick a soft brush over the metal work. This will burnish the metal. 

 

Job done. 

 

Loco stuff to follow. 

 

Rob. 

Rob,

 

Do you remove the glazing or mask it off?

 

If not, does the car polish affect the glazing?

 

Also, what type of car polish do you use on your model railway coaches, please? (not interested in the brand you use on your vehicle!).

 

Evening CK.

 

No masking or removal of the glazing. I use a resin polish applied using a cotton bud. However, care is needed to avoid getting polish into nooks and crannies as it will prove tricky to remove. It will not affect the glazing. I use Autoglym resin polish, mainly because it is what I have always used..

 

 

Work a small area at a time working in small circles.

 

 

I will post a few pictures.

 

 

Rob.

Hi Rob,

Mutton looks great, looks very atmospheric. How did you go about weathering the track please?

Thank you,

Liam

Hi Liam.

 

I am not very original so I basically use the same techniques for locos, stock, buildings and of course track..

 

The track was sprayed with Humbrol Acrylic Dark Earth. This provided a key for the powders. Iron oxide was daubed about the rails then smoke, black, dark earth and rust ( used sparingly as its a bit orange to my eyes) were applied with no set plan. Once I was happy, it was sealed with matt acrylic varnish.

 

 

 

Once dry ( minutes ) I then flicked a soft brush over the sleepers. This provided a oily like sheen down the centre of the track.

 

Then I ballast.

 

Rob.

Found these......

 

 

Only the second photo I have seen of a goods working on the Lamb Regis branch and the only one with a Radial in charge. LSWR 0415 class 59 Lamb Regis Goods train at Ewminster August 1919

 

The other wonderful image shows the branch brake van in Southern days...If Hornby do a Maunsell green Radial, I'm sunk.

 

Rob.

Please tell how you painted and weathered the concrete. I could do with some tips as I'm about to start weathering the fuel depot and shed area of the Lane.

Hi Alan/Keef,

 

The base is DAS,built up to rail height and then sanded flat.....ish. It was then painted with Halfords grey primer. I then 'dusted' humbrol acrylic light grey and acrylic dark earth over the top. I then scored it to suggest concrete laid in panels. A mod to this in that having scored it, I now draw a pencil through the slot to colour it.

 

I then apply Humbrol weathering powders starting with black into the scored line and shading either side on all four sides of the panel. I then use 'smoke' to shade inside of that. Dark earth and sand are applied until it looks right. White is then applied in the centre and this is then blended until you are happy with it.

 

This is then sealed with a LIGHT dusting of acrylic varnish.

 

 

Each panel ends up different and provides the contrast.

 

 

Hope this helps!

 

 

Rob.

Morning Steve. 

 

Yes, start with say the iron oxide on the metal work then use the black for areas where you might want add shading. 

Dark earth to the underframe and perhaps lower wagon sides and ends. 

 

Over to top then goes smoke to tone down any areas.  

 

I will then revisit any areas using lighter colours if needed. 

 

Roofs are done last, once the rest of the wagon is finished and sealed. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

Here's another one in detail.

 

So the basic spray painting is done:

 

 

 

 

Next is the metalwork, painted in Humbrol 113, and for this wagon White weathering powder is used on the body timbers:

 

 

Then I use Humbrol Rust weathering powder on the W irons and brake gear, and on the iron endplates of the body:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next the Dark Earth weathering powder is applied to darken everything down:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here it is with the others:

 

 

Thanks for looking,

 

Al.

Evening CK. Firstly, I sprayed the loco with matt acrylic varnish. I then went over it with Hunbrol smoke weathering powder before using Hunbrol black to try to pick out the detail in a sort of reverse dry brush thing. I then sprayed the matt varnish again to seal it.

 

More work to do but happy with this.

 

I wanted to portray a honest hard working locomotive.

 

Rob

2 hours ago, JimRead said:

Hello Neil,

 

Last two posts - really great modelling!

May I ask another question about the brake gear, are you able to buy it or do you make it yourself, if so the blob behind the brakes shoes is very well done.

 

Cheers - Jim

Thanks Jim, much appreciated. 
 

The single shoe brake gear came from Peco - from the North British open (PS01) kit formerly made by Parkside. It cost £3 (plus P&P which was another £3) for a sprue, and you get the below:

 

 

I ordered several sets as there’s a few wagons to build that will need single shoe brake gear. Each sprue also gives you a pair of W-Irons and axleboxes, so two sprues would give you enough to complete one wagon. 
 

Just now, TrainMan2001 said:

Those wagons are very nice! To add another question (sorry), do you scribe the planks yourself? If so, do you have any tips on how to do it? Thanks!

Thanks. Yes I scribe the plank lines myself - I draw them out first using a fine pencil (I use a H as that’s what I have to hand), and then I use an Olfa Scriber which has a hooked blade which removes a line of plastic as you draw it along - you’ll need to use a steel ruler and take a couple of gentle passes to produce some depth - too much pressure and it will wander all over the place! I usually go over the line twice, that seems to be produce enough depth to give a convincing plank line. 
 

Warning - it is very messy. You’ll end up with lots of curly plastic swarf everywhere! 
 

This is the Olfa Scriber:

 

IIRC mine came from Squires or Eileens Emporium - one of the best investments if you are scratchbuilding wagons from plastic sheet. 
 

Hope this helps. 

28 minutes ago, James Harrison said:

Just a thought.  If these take off and sell like the proverbial hot cakes (and of course we all hope they do, don't we?), would that encourage Hattons to look at, say, 50' non-corridor bogie carriages in a like manner?

 

This was discussed somewhere up-thread. I was arguing for slightly shorter: 42ft - 44ft, i.e. 7-compartment thirds rather than 8-compartment thirds. That would be more 1880s/90s matching the 6-wheelers. 50ft or thereabouts smacks too much of c. 1900 onwards suburban sets.

 

A brake composite - with or without lavatories - is of course de rigueur. 

Hi Chris does this help to point you in the right direction as regards more realistic wood finish as practised by @NHY 581?

 

 

 

Evening all. 

 

I regret to say that I have not made any progress with anything new. 

 

However, I have acquired a further, unscheduled, building for Woolney. A Pendon Wanborough barn popped up on Ewe-bay and was secured for what was considered to be reasonable price. 

 

In other news, a new photo emerges of Sheep Dip. I blame recent activity from Mikkel and Gedward.........they sowed a seed (!).....

 

 

Rob. 

 

I use charcoal/wood ash obtained from a barbecue, Chris. 

 

This has provided the yard surfaces on Mutton, Sheep Dip and Sheep Lane. 

 

First a thin layer of neat pva is put down. The Ash is then applied. Teaspooned into a tea strainer and shaken onto the wet pva. Leave for a bit then secure using diluted pva as per ballasting with a syringe. 

 

Keep the syringe close to the surface when dropping the pva or it will crater....

 

Panic because everything is now white and leave. 

 

It will dry clear. 

 

Try on a small piece of card or similar. 

 

I've added a couple of recent  photos where you can glimpse the surface on the loading Dock at Sheep Dip. 

 

 

Rob. 

10 hours ago, wiggoforgold said:

Did you apply the powders straight to the moulded base, or did you paint it first? What underlay have you used - it looks like  closed cell foam?

Alex

 

 

Morning Alex. 

 

There is no underlay. The track is laid direct to the board. 

Everything is then sprayed with Humbrol acrylic Dark Earth from a rattly can. 

The rail sides are then coloured using Humbrol Iron Oxide weathering powder which is then sealed with a dusting of acrylic matt varnish. 

 

I then paint the sleepers with Humbrol 173 track colour. This is wiped off to varying degrees using a cotton bud. 

 

The rail sides are toned down using Humbrol smoke weathering powder before Dark Earth, White and Smoke weathering powders are added to the sleepers. 

 

Once happy, it's all sealed with more Acrylic matt varnish. 

 

 

Rob 

32 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said:

 

***** MODELLING ALERT *****

 

Kevin, I'd be interested to learn how you planned and implemented the platforms, especially how you worked out the edge-to-stock gap. I'm at the platform stage with Easton and haven't yet decided how I'm going to do that. The nuisance factor with Easton is that the platform will be curved. I have read Scalescenes' method from their platform kit and made a start (stuck some printed sheets to 2mm greyboard), but wondered if you have a better method.

 

 

***** END OF MODELLING ALERT *****

 

My starting point was this chart from Justin at Scale Model Scenery which I think is now a free download...

 

 

All my platforms are straight so it was quite simple job to align them using the above.

For a previous layout with a curved platform I cut  a piece of card to the follow the line of the track and temporarily fixed to the baseboard and then with a clutch pencil taped to the leading edge of a coach I wheeled it down the platform marking a line as I went.

I formed datum points so I could line it up both for the platform edge and wall.

 

Hope this helps.

 

23 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said:

 

I'm going to be very annoying, Rob, and ask if you've detailed how you went about weathering this wagon earlier on your thread? (Well, there are a lot of pages!!) I just picked up three of these off eBay (two of which require replacement buffers) to go with an old Airfix/GMR version (from my teens!) and would love to achieve the kind of finish you have on this wagon.

 

Shame Project X won't feature a wharf - I was looking forward to seeing you do water!

 

Steve S

 

 

Morning Steve, 

 

No worries. The modelling stuff does get submerged at times and its a big old thread. 

 

Here's a repeat of a series of images from earlier in the thread. I use the same principles for any planked wagon. 

 

The victim of this occasionis a Minerva 5 plank GWR open. 

 

Here it is, out of the box. 

 

 

 

 

Humbrol Dark Earth acrylic  was sprayed over the underframe, lower body and ends. 

 

 

 

 

 

The inside was worked on first using powders. My pallet is limited and I use only Humbrol powders at present. 

 

 

 

The colours used are

 

Black

Smoke

Rust

Iron Oxide

Sand

Dark Earth 

White

 

 

All are applied using a selection of really cheap and nasty make up brushes from Amazon. 

 

 

 

 

No particular order. Just add until it looks right to you. 

 

 

 

Once happy with the resulting blending and adding of the various colours, they are sealed using Humbrpl matt acrylic varnish from an aerosol. 

 

 

A light touch is needed. Too wet and you will lose the shades you've worked so hard to acheive. 

 

 

 

Once dry, minutes really, I then take to each individual plank with a fibre brush and remove some of the finish until it looks about right. I then re seal with another dusting of acrylic varnish. 

 

I then moved on to the outside. I deepened and distressed some of the planks using a sharp pointy thing. 

 

Then added powders starting with black to infill the groves first. Sort of pre-shading.. 

 

 

 

Iron oxide was added to the metal work, body and underframe, as was rust and some sand to highlight rust patches. 

 

Smoke and dark earth was used to tone things down. 

 

 

Again, once happy all sealed using matt varnish. 

 

 

Again, individual planks were distressed using the fibre brush. 

 

A final coat of varnish and you're done. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I do however come back to it after a few days with a fresh pair of eyes and tweak if required. 

 

 

 

Sheep Lane......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mutton.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bleat Wharf Mk1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bleat Wharf Mk2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sheep Dip. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Project  X

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Room of Doom

 

 

 

 

A couple of buildings.....

 

 

 

 

Thank you.