fiftyfour fiftyfour
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Posts posted by fiftyfour fiftyfour
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1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:
In this drive arrangement, because both worms are driven from a common motor shaft, if one worm is not rotating but the other bogie runs as you describe, something is either slipping in the drive line to the stationary worm, or a component such as the cardan shaft is disengaged or broken.
Carden shaft spins when its disconnected from the worm, but it's impossible to see what is happening between the shaft end and the worm once the cover goes back over.
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1 hour ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:
If one worm gear isn't turning but the other worm gear is, the most common problem cause is one of the plastic drive couplers slipping, within the flywheel, or on the worm shaft. A little superglue rectifies.
These centre motor drives typically have ample traction with both bogies driven to race along with 30 to 40 carriages. The Bachmann drive in their BR DMU's such as the class 105 and 108 are of the centre motor type but with only one bogie driven and will haul over a dozen carriages, so a small train of HST carriages is not going to be a problem.
And more recently (its been a week long stock healthcheck) I found a very nearly identical issue on a Dapol Class 121, it got warm and then the plastic drive couplers started slipping on the rod and once they started slipping the train (load: one vehicle) came to a stand. I dismantled whilst heavily cursing the "new" stuff vs the Lima stuff which just works out of the box, cleaned up and its better but still not brilliant- I was reluctant to apply glue on a tiny drive shaft but it might come to that if there is a repeat.
Back on the HST power car I did think there may be some dirt in the cogs as initially they didn't feel free running, but a little bit of gentle working got them moving. I'm now thinking its the worm shaft housing has contracted with age as its as if something is clamping the worm shaft. I don't know what the thrust washers look like, I don't think is has them unless they are the bits the worm drive sits in?
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One of my Hornby HST power cars (circa 2008, the then "new" version, R2704 pack) has decided that after being last operated about four years ago without a problem it wants to play up. It initially crawled along at a very slow pace with only one bogie moving, and bench testing showed the mechanism between the cogs and the carden shaft at the No1 end (cab end) had seized so the good end was fighting against a static end. Stripped it down and built it back up one bit at a time, and its either the housing around the brass thing which I'm going to call a worm drive, or the worm drive locking up against the cogs. Anyone any ideas on a permanent fix please? For now I'm running it without the carden shaft and the brass worm drive so it's only powering one bogie, which seems to have negligible effect on performance but it doesn't feel like that is a long term fix!
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On 21/01/2024 at 11:10, richierich said:
As an aside, where did you get the transfers for the NBC logo and fleetnames?
Ebay seller was doing them, I had to make the Cheltenham District from two packs, Cheltenham plus Maidstone District from memory.
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On 22/01/2024 at 12:28, 37114 said:
Nice models, never knew you could go direct from Cheltenham to Weston, that would be a long trip in an Olympian!
Yes, they ran "seaside specials" on Sundays, bank holidays and more often in summer school holidays. Just one bus there, five hours or so in Weston for the same bus back. Sometimes it needed to be duplicated or triplicated to cope with demand, it just picked up at a few points in Cheltenham and Gloucester then went straight onto the M5 so probably only took about 90 minutes from Gloucester, even with an Olympian.
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16 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:
This page may help
wow, that's quite a find- thanks for that. Now to place a massive order!!
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Can anyone point me towards a source for the West Yorkshire PTE colours as worn by the Class 141's when they were brand new please. The colours worn by the buses in the same region are quoted as "verona green" and "buttermilk", I've drawn something of a blank so far!
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32 minutes ago, AY Mod said:
That is not any advertising we have placed, it could be something tracked from other sites visited and therefore we cannot solve that issue.
Its only happening on this site, but it didn't happen just now!
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using google chrome on a desktop, not gold membership. Just took about seven attempts to get this far, as soon as the screen opens a very dangerous malware "advert" for BT tempting me with offers in Euros for completing a "survey" and also purporting to be from Vodaphone. Luckily my malware is up to date....
I know this has been said a thousand times and we get that you have to monetise the site and turn a substantial profit for your owners but this ain't the right route, as the site is un-useable.
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I'm selling off the last of my stock of these replacement interiors as part of a clear out before I move house. £30 for four, including free P&P. You need them if you've got Oxford Rail Mk3's (INTERCITY "swallow" or Virgin), Hornby (InterCity as per this years release, INTERCITY "swallow", most post privatisation liveries) and Lima (again, everything between blue/grey and mid 2000's refits). Not correct for sliding door era.
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On 14/02/2023 at 12:58, sulzer71 said:
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Color-GX112-Super-Clear-III-UV-Cut-Gloss.html
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Mr-Color-GX113-Super-Clear-III-UV-Cut-Flat.html
Also I've noticed airbrushes.com have the HR Hobbies products in stock https://airbrushes.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=HR+Hobbies&x=5&y=2Mr Colour blisters enamel paints, thankfully only a test piece!
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3 hours ago, sulzer71 said:
Have you seen my post further up with some links?
Seen it, ordered it, waiting for it! Thanks for the suggestion, I've now got a model set aside for varnish trials ahead of re-stripping prior to going into a different livery!
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On 14/02/2023 at 14:12, fulton said:
AMMO MIG now do an own brand "Alclad" range, A-STAND made in the UK, supplied to Ammo Mig in Spain, including the water based Aqua Gloss Acrylic Varnish, which they say is the same as the Alclad 600 Aqua Acrylic Varnish, I regularly order from Ammo Mig for delivery to the UK, postage cost, to me is OK, normally takes about five days, not, so far, had any tax to pay, last delivery was last week.
Are you using https://www.migjimenez.com/en/ as that's all I could find typing AMMO MIG in? It's out of stock there. There appears to be an acute global shortage of modelling varnish, every single turn I take leads to "no stock"- that was probably the 20th place I've tried.
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On 10/02/2023 at 16:49, sulzer71 said:
I don't use Alclad but from what I've heard it's laquer/cellulose based correct? If so I myself am currently using Mr Hobby Mr Color GX112 and 113 which are called UV Cut and apparently non yellowing , I thin with the same brand leveling thinners
Do you have an online stockist? Nobody has the HR hobbies version of AlClad, the warhammer games people have e-mailed me to advise "out of stock" implying that HR Hobbies is no more.
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4 hours ago, Steadfast said:
Try looking up HR Hobbies. Should be the same stuff, but with a different label. The license to use the Alclad name expired in 2022 and wasn't renewed
Jo
Thanks, found some stock of that on a Warhammer website so I'll give that a whirl- the product numbers are the same so it sounds promising!
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Can anyone suggest a good alternative to Alclad for a sprayable varnish? I'm running out and nobody on eBay has it without paying for shipping from Australia or the USA! I use the gloss version (for final coat on model buses) but the satin would do. All other varnishes I've tried go white or yellow, or don't work after the third or fourth time the container is opened.
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Never thought of that, I'll have a look in there later this week!
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Apologies for the question, I've looked back through six pages and couldn't see a topic where the answer was apparent.
I want to make a copy of an item I already have, in my naivety I assumed it was a "thing" that a local 3D print place might be able to simply place my item in a machine for it to somehow scan it and spit out copies some minutes later. Upon asking it seems I have to spend £300+ getting them to make it into a file, and that is before I've even got one unit in my hands.
The item is an interior seat moulding for a model bus that measures approx 120mmx28mmx30mm. The material used isn't important, neither is the colour or the finish for that matter. Looking at the other threads it seems that making the item myself in fusion 360 or similar software would be the starting point if I was making it from scratch, but that feels like a very long route when I've got the actual thing I need in my grubby little hand- I just need about 20 more of them!
Huge thanks in advance for advice!!
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seriously, you might as well just throw everyone non premium off the site now. I can't close the Rapido advert which takes up 75% of the screen and on a decent sized desktop monitor I only have a 3"x7" visible window and can only see the first half of each line in any posting. This site has now passed the point where advertising has become so overwhelming that the site is useless. (Using Google Chrome, a not uncommon browser)
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A pair of Olympians painted using the Phoenix Precision colours, and I'm happy with the shades.
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Don't know if I should put this in road vehicles but it's here for now!
Does anyone know if anyone did transfers for the "Metro Coastlines" branding as used by Blackpool Transport on trams and buses in the 2000's (from I guess c1999/2000 until c2011/2012). I've looked at the likely suspects and not found anything, its a tough one to home-print without access to a white ink print facility.
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18 hours ago, ianLMS said:
Thanks, have ordered two sheets to see how I get along. Spraying or otherwise colouring a plain sheet would have been an issue as cutting and fitting the glazing is quite fiddly without worrying about scuffing it.
Hornby Class 43 drive seized one end
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
The worm gear isn't spinning, the carden shaft spins freely from the motor end and when I separate the parts and try manually turning the worm drive with the carden shaft between my fingers it doesn't budge