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justin1985

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  1. I'd love to hear more about this! Using a blade type arrangement? Or a milling cutter? CNC milling plasticard does seem like quite a good idea for cutting plastic (cut right through any thickness), but I don't think I've seen it done very much? Most tutorials etc on 3018 type machines seem to be for milling PCB designs.
  2. I've just looked this up, and I must have been mistaken in my previous post. It wasn't Mick Simpson who wrote up the curving technique at all. The relevant articles are by Geoff Jones, 'Curved turnouts for pegged chairs' in the June 2016 2mm Magazine, and by Rod McCall in the August 2016 issue. Basically Geoff's method is to cut out a large part of the web between sleepers on the outside of the curve, on between alternating pairs of sleepers (i.e. solid web, sleeper, web cut away to centre line, sleeper, solid web ... ) Rod's method perhaps a bit simpler - simply cutting a single cut almost all of the way from outside to inside of curve in the web between alternating pairs of sleepers. (i.e. leaving most of the web in place, just cutting but leave a tab to keep everything intact) This blog from the 2mm Kent and Essex Area Group illustrates the two methods pretty well https://2mmkeag.blogspot.com/2021/06/june-2021-meeting.html I don't see any reason why this method wouldn't work with Finetrax as well?
  3. Answering my own question here - I stuck an unpainted one of the Dapol 20t mineral opens onto an order for some other bits from Hattons. To my surprise, it scales out well against the BR diagram book posted by the Barrowmore MRC. Also, the under frame is much finer than I was expecting, and could probably easily get away with just new wheels. Perhaps especially in its unpainted state, the relief on the door opening hinges etc does look a bit shallow. Prototype length over headstocks: 21'6" (43mm at 2mm/ft) Dapol length over headstocks: 44.3mm Prototype overall width: 8' 7 5/6" (c.17mm) Dapol overall width: 17.6mm So, pretty good for 1:152! I think the pre-war Stephenson Clarke wagon here is a slight bit shorter above the doors, but the end door style matches - certainly close enough! https://hmrs.org.uk/photographs/stephenson-clarke-se-20t-steel-open-25503-two-doors-each-side.html
  4. I'm planning to start working on a few more designs for decals for private owner wagons, and quite fancy doing some for the ubiquitous Stephenson Clarke ("SC"). Browsing the HMRS photo albums, I noticed some quite attractive steel opens: https://hmrs.org.uk/photographs/stephenson-clarke-se-20t-steel-open-s-e-3051-prestomet-prevents-rust-on-side-name-address-on-end.html These look very similar in design to the Dapol "20t mineral" that they've released in endless liveries including "Bolsover", which does at least look to be prototypical. (why are so many of their releases of this type weathered like an explosion at a sewage works?). https://www.Dapol.co.uk/shop/n-gauge/wagons-amp-freight/20t-mineral-wagon I seem to remember those Dapol wagons were part of a series that were "shrink-ray"ed from their OO range, which originated as Wrenn, or some other prehistoric range? The gunpowder van is quite strangely proportioned ... How does the Dapol 20t mineral scale out? If it isn't too strangely proportioned, is there a 2mm etched chassis that is a good fit? The Parkside (now PECO) kit for the GWR steel loco coal wagon also looks vaguely similar, but has a very different looking end door and very chunky top rail ... Cheers Justin
  5. Thanks for all the replies. The wagon stripped with Dettol (Märklin) did clean up well in the end, so I'm not sure if the stickiness was melting plastic, or perhaps one of the components of the original paint that wasn't being dissolved as well as the pigments etc? That is a good tip for renumbers! I wonder if the same is true with Bachmann/Farish printed sector logos etc? Perhaps with all these changes it is time to bite the bullet and buy commercial plastic safe paint strippers? Modelling ones do seem very expensive though! Has anyone been brave enough to try decorating type paint strippers on plastic models? They do at least seem to be a bit more transparent about their active ingredients ... J
  6. Really great to see these made available again! Good range of liveries covering the whole country, including Scotland, which is kinna rare with most PO wagons in N. The original releases were very heavily skewed towards colliery wagons, so good to see a balance of traders and collieries. Price is noticeably higher than before, but not exactly out of step with Farish, especially considering this is a distinctly better moulding. Rails are really carving out a niche for themselves as commissioning and supporting small supplier models in N. See also Cavalex PGAs and Sonic J50s. Seems a great solution all round! J
  7. I'd like to install some proper fume extraction in the space I use for modelling, but don't really know where to start with ductwork and fans. The space I use is an integral garage, entirely within the footprint of my terraced house - the only outside "wall" is the wooden up and over garage door itself (which is very seldom opened and now hard to open, making it even more seldom opened ...) with very minimal brick columns either side (one a party wall, the other wall with the hallway/porch). Therefore, it seems like some kind of temporary, or at least temporarily movable, connection through a hole in the door itself will be the only option? A complication is the fact that my workbench, and where I tend to have other machines etc set up, is at the furthest end of the garage from the external door. That is where the electrical sockets are all located, there is much better lighting, and it is relatively safe from dust that inevitably blows in around the up and over door, despite draught excluders. So I'd prefer to have some kind of ductwork rigged down much of the length of the garage - otherwise I'd have to rig up another workstation of some kind, with electrical supply and lighting, at the far end. I've got an airbrush (which I either try to use outdoors when the weather is good enough, or only briefly, using a 3M respirator before ducking out of the garage while things settle) as well as a resin based 3D printer (which stinks quite badly when running) and now also a small diode based laser cutter (only really used to cut small amounts of card etc so far, but would like to cut more acrylic etc, which would release even more harmful fumes). So I'm looking for a flexible extraction system that could work for all of these. What should I be looking to get? Especially in terms of diameter of ducting, type of ducting, and power of fan? I imagine I'm looking for some kind of slot in/slot out fitting to mount on the door, with one of those flappy outdoor covers (hopefully available in brown to match the wood) - would the type sold for tumble dryers be good for this side of it? If I did want to run the ducting from the "workbench" end of the room down to the external door, I imagine I'd need some combination of rigid ducting (steel?) for the long part of the run, and something flexible to connect both ends. I imagine the flexible ducting varies quite a bit in quality - what to look for? And I imagine I'd need an inline fan - presumably one in the back of a hobby grade portable spray booth type thing (or repurposed kitchen extractor) isn't going to be much use at all if there is any kind of distance to cover? What kind of power / spec would you need for it to be effective at shifting paint fumes or smoke from a laser etc? Many thanks for any tips! Justin
  8. Good question! I asked in May 2020 and was directed to this page, last updated in 2018, which seems to say it is still £82, but also told "the Membership Secretary will be in touch with you when the time is right" to confirm.
  9. Very nice indeed! It seems to look like each system only works (/can be configured/programmed) with the specific DCC controllers from those manufacturers though? (or is that just what they want you to think ... )
  10. Interesting. I like the concept - especially the point switches with physical paddles to switch! It looks like Osborns still sell some new components of the system, pricey though! https://www.osbornsmodels.com/fleischmann-control-systems-316-c.asp Discontinued but still available direct at Fleischmann.de https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/11838-0-0-0-0-0-0-006001012-0/products.html I've got a vague memory of seeing another system that had little interlocking square tiles that really looked like a "real" powerbox panel. Any ideas who made that?
  11. I built one of the kit versions of these a while back, just to try them out really. Don't recall them being too difficult - so long as you've got a small enough soldering iron bit. If you're tidy with your soldering, it might even be possible to improve on the rather chunky black plastic back-box that clips over the LEDs once you've soldered the connections?
  12. Thanks Klaus. I did figure that whatever material is used to make it into a putty will inevitably make it less heavy than lead formed into a solid - but the trade off sounds like being easier to push into the shape required. I've ordered both the putty and some thin lead shim from eBay, and will experiment. My first attempt at the J72 was long enough ago (10+ years, probably) that eBay and Amazon weren't yet such great sources of the random things you wouldn't otherwise know where to find! Never having fished, I never would have thought of fishing gear shops as a source of lead or tungsten ... but it turns out most of the eBay listings of suitable sizes/quantities of both are in that category.
  13. Thanks again all. Very helpful. I think on the first attempt the lead was especially inefficient in filling the space - if I recall correctly I'd asked my dad if he had any lead around that I could use, and he just cut open a shotgun cartridge and gave me the literal shot! That sounds like a very convenient idea. I had just noticed that looking for lead in small and thin enough packs to work with, most was coming up from eBay's fishing section ... The tungsten putty looks like about £5 per 20g pack - expensive per gram, but hardly the end of the world when we're talking about the amount of space inside a 2mm loco
  14. Very good point - taken. Thanks chaps. I think I'd got the idea from Bill Blackburn's approach in some part finished J15s I acquired with Long Melford (which haven't progressed any further ...). I definitely see the disadvantages though. On the original J72 boiler (which does definitely need to be replaced - holes really are all over the place) I used quite coarse lead shot, and covered the open end with I think Evostick. It rattles like a maraca! I'm pretty sure I'd heard the horror stories about PVA and lead. Any other suggestions for fixing lead inside the tube? Would flooding lead shot with cheap cyano be sensible?
  15. Many thanks for pointing me to these @Nigelcliffe and @2mm Andy. I'll definitely fit the coreless, and thinking of mounting it on a spacer / bracket milled from solid brass for weight. Suspect I could fit a decoder one side, and some capacitors on the other. Will mock up in plasticard to try out the combinations, and decide whether to use the CT or Zimo. I'm also planning to re-make the loco boiler (originally ended up with holes for handrails etc much too big, and poorly lined up) by turning + milling from solid brass. So there shouldn't be any shortage of weight!
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