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  1. This is a real gap in 2mm / N ! The NGS have finally made available their remaining stocks of transfers they produced with Modelmaster years ago, which includes a limited selection of PO liveries, which are quite good. But it's a "while they last" arrangement. There used to be 2mm ranges of rub down PO sides from POWSides and Dragon Models, which I'm pretty sure both got withdrawn. BH Enterprises might well have whatever is left of stocks? Robbie's Rolling Stock has a range of sides, but in my view they're far too crude for 2mm. 1) they are printed on clear
  2. I use a jig (I 3D printed one, which I think is now available from the shop? Or you could easily mill one) that has slots that are quite shallow. When I press the etched chair open over this they only open into a V shape that is just about open enough to slide into the end of a rail, but still grips it. I think the original suggestion was to use a pinboard pin to press the chairs open, but I've found the point of very fine tweezers work better - they're kind of square. Only once the rail is in place and the neighbouring chair is soldered do I "squidge" the etched chair
  3. One other thing I've noticed is that the PCB sleepers themselves can vary in height a bit. I perhaps made the mistake of pouring the last of a years old bag of PCB sleeper strip, and a new one, into the same toolbox compartment, and then noticed after laying some through the crossing of a turnout, there was a daylight gap under the rail on some when it was flush on others. I've bought a few sheets of 0.8mm single sided PCB myself for other bits and pieces, and noticed that within a single A4 sheet, it actually varies from about 0.7mm to 0.9mm. I've no idea if the 2mm Association st
  4. I'm trying to do something similar in a much smaller space (a Z gauge driving coach) - this thread was really useful. But what is the minimum capacitance that would have a noticeable effect in keeping LEDs on? Is there a formula for working out how long a certain capacitance could power an LED (or whatever) at a certain voltage and current? I searched for non-polarised capacitors, but everything I could find at e.g. Farnell was either really really low in capacitance (picofarads) or really big! Realistically in the space I have available, I coul
  5. Exactly this! I've always found it much harder to get a gapless join between a printed body and an etched chassis, compared to a plastic body. You inevitably have supports on the underside, which leave a less than perfectly flat surface when they're removed, and the chances are it won't be entirely 100% flat across the bottom to start with because printing forces don't tend to be perfectly balanced. I've never yet managed to sand the whole underside sufficiently flat across the whole surface to get a perfect fit. I've used an approach copied from "Stockprints" on Shape
  6. This looks great Kevin! I had been thinking 3D printed RCH wagons would be worth doing, as an update to the Association kits (which don't necessarily go together that cleanly every time). I'd say yes to ramping up the relief of details like strapping and bolt heads. I always think where you are used to seeing shadow and texture on (photos of) the real thing, you want to see shadow and relief on a model. But dead scale, in our scale, often doesn't give that. Modern Farish RCH wagons probably still overdo the strapping etc, even though they're much better than anything b
  7. I've been playing around for a while with designs for a coupling that brings T gauge stock a bit closer together. I think I finally got something I'm happy with in the form of what's basically a magnet in a pocket with a stick with pip that fits a T gauge style coupler pocket. However, now I can run a train, it does show up the fact the cl.67 really struggles to haul them on curves (fine on straight track). I'm not at all sure whether the plastic wheel flanges might be striking the fishplates, whether the couplings are constraining rotation too
  8. @missy 's projects with the Proxxon mill are seriously impressive and inspiring. But I think on balance I'm a little reluctant to take on converting mine to CNC and making other tweaks to it that seem to follow from that - at least yet. One of the things that puts me off is the fact it seems like most routes to fitting the Proxxon mill with CNC preclude also using it manually anymore? However I have been wondering about getting one of the cheap Chinese "CNC Router" machines (always described by their bed size as 3018 or whatever) to play around with CNC cutting flat materials - es
  9. Many thanks - that's good to know. I've got a scratchbuilt N7 body that I found being sold without provenance on eBay several years back. It scales out nicely and is more or less complete, and seems to be made from tinplate or something like that. Trying to work out what to do about the trailing axle is one of the things that has kept it at the back of the drawer so far. J
  10. This looks amazing Izzy! Are the body parts fretted out by hand? Does the trailing axle pivot between narrowed frames somehow? J
  11. Thanks Bernard - that could be just the ticket! I'll send you a direct message.
  12. Completely agree, Kevin! The designs I've done, I've done the work on for me, for my own enjoyment, rather than as any kind of commercial project. If others can make use of them too, they're very welcome to. So far, that's really just a few GER wagons and associated bits and pieces like axle boxes. I'd frankly much rather share STLs with people than go through the faff of doing and cleaning/preparing more prints to post.
  13. Thanks Julia - I actually did some of these detailing projects on Farish wagons years ago, and I had a search around to see if I could find any leftovers, but no such luck I don't suppose @BernardTPM happens to have any more available? These look like they might be ideal, Pix! Ideally it would be the full length of the top of the wagon - which is ~30-32mm. That might be a bit longer than the Western roof walkway? Thanks Andy - that was the kind of thing I was sure I'd seen somewhere. I can't help but imagine they might be very tricky to cut to size
  14. Are there any generic etched mesh catwalk type parts available that would suit a 2mm wagon? Or sheets of etched mesh that could be used? I'm planning to approximate this tank wagon using the PECO kit and Association chassis: https://www.flickr.com/photos/irishswissernie/35712013306/in/album-72157685827366556/ J
  15. This is what the design looks like I usually print them as just a bit of a "filler" on the build plate when printing other things, and probably don't pay as much attention to washing off excess resin as on other models, so they often lose a bit of the detail visible in the design. But as a replacement for the whitemetal ones, they seem to do the job for me! Justin
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