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Everything posted by justin1985

  1. Thanks for all the great inspiration! I've been thinking about how I might model the GER train. So far its taken me about 2 evenings to draw up the tool / ballast brake van - almost finished. Just some detailing around the windows to do. I might leave the roof off and add from brass or something this time - I can imagine the open verandah with roof above causing problems for the printer! And this afternoon I made a start on designing the jib - which turned out to be really tricky! The only surviving diagram of this crane, a very simple outline type diagram.
  2. Thanks Jim - I had been thinking of allowing the outside axles the side play as per a 2-4-2 tank - but I see what you mean about keeping the outside axles rigid for stability on the track. I don't think a Cleminson chassis would cater for a four axle chassis though? This sounds promising! Would you mount the two central axles together on a single "bogie" sprung this way? Or individually? Justin
  3. If you were going to model this crane in 2mmFS, how would you tackle the crane chassis? It has a very peculiar axle spacing of 6’6” + 6’0” + 4’6” (17’ total wheelbase) plus 3’ 7 1/2” overhang at each end. So far as I can work out, the wheels are 3’ diameter. I’d imagine it wouldn’t really be viable to make a rigid chassis this long, which pretty much rules out using wagon wheels and bearings. So, functional inside frames and bearings hidden behind cosmetic outside frames, like a tender? Which would be better though? Inside frames narrower than usua
  4. I'm not a 4mm modeller, so just curious here - but these images make it look an awful lot like the handrails by the door in the brake portion are simply printed on. The fact the Network Rail coach has no sign of them at all makes me suspicious that they look printed on the other models because they are just printed on! Surely that can't be, in this day and age, in the larger scales? Or are we confident that they are just poorly done Photoshop'ed images?
  5. Fascinating! By "unpeeled", am I right in interpreting your photo as meaning two of the arch spans have been combined through the central part, but left "as nature intended" at the ends (pillars visible)? To my eye, the transition from two spans with pillar to single wide span gives it a very contemporary look - like some kind of architectural project by Zaha Hadid ! Or will the central row of columns be represented/suggested in some other way?
  6. I've just been catching up with GER Society Journals from 2020 over the last few evenings, and came across a short article by John Watling based around a wonderful photograph of a Great Eastern breakdown train at Brentwood goods yard in 1911. The photo shows a C32 (LNER F3) 2-4-2 suburban tank loco with the GER's home-brew 20t crane no. 5A, one runner wagon, one high sided open, and a tool/brake van. The GER was apparently unique in building their own cranes, rather than buying from Ransomes etc. (I'm not sure about rules on posting the image here? Photo of magazine page on
  7. But the fact that many goods will no longer be available, because many specialist things simply aren't available in the UK, is itself a long term net loss to the UK. Model trains and bike parts might be seen as trivial by many people, but this obviously includes all kinds of other specialist bits and pieces and widgets, which in the long term will make it harder for small businesses, makers, innovators, entrepreneurs, to make new things themselves and keep innovation going. There is a big reason that historically Britain was such a big advocate of "free trade" - the more freely stu
  8. Except the new regulations don't allow for that when sending into the UK : (my bold). This explicitly relates BOTH to things sold through an "Online Marketplace" (eBay, Amazon, etc.) which will handle the VAT for the seller, AND anything sold to a UK consumer NOT using an online marketplace. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-and-overseas-goods-sold-directly-to-customers-in-the-uk
  9. I think the point is that it legally COULD be - but whether any or many retailers will be sufficiently set-up to do so is a different question! Again, a retailer could now deduct the UK VAT from an order from an EU country, if they are organised enough to do so. I don't believe any other country in the world has tried to be so draconian as the UK in attempting to force retailers outside of their jurisdiction to collect their taxes for them, so I don't think your UK retailer would be expected to collect the Luxembourgish VAT. They'd simply deduct the UK VAT (ho
  10. But one big question is how many retailers will bother? @SM42 suggested Modellbahnshop Lippe are working on this, which is great news, but I fear many more retailers, and especially cottage industry makers of etches and bits, will either remain ignorant of this, or simply, like William Shatner, refuse to sell to the UK at all to avoid the hassle (as @njee20 mentioned having noticed with bike part retailers). Registering with UK HMRC is quite an obstacle in itself, especially as there doesn't even seem to be any advertised minimum turnover etc for this to apply, as well as the separ
  11. Over the Christmas break I've finally got some of my GER 16' vent vans completed and now weathered. Pretty pleased with how they've turned out! (still waiting for some matt varnish though) The diagram I worked from (I think torn out from a very old Railway Modeller?) Showed a timber underframe, but looking at Tatlow it seems the steel version was much more common - and all of these short vans that survived to grouping were on steel, so I'll see about doing that version too, as well as the longer versions that followed. I seem to have run out of
  12. I've used TransferWise to get around this issue - their fees are minimal in comparison with the banks. I think there are one or two other competitors in that market these days too. Continental small traders I've paid this way have invariably got their payment within a day or so, if not instantly. Alas the issue that is going to make this kind of thing much more difficult now is the changes to VAT rules for imports to the UK worth upto £135. The new requirement to pre-pay the VAT on all commercial packets is clearly designed to catch all the Chinese sellers on eBay, Amazon, ALiExpr
  13. Much easier with AutoCAD - I'd been trying to do the whole thing with the Fusion sketch tools, which quickly reach their limits with this kind of thing! I've nabbed your DWG, Julia, will try it next time Very good question! The common answer to this seems to be that once UV cured to the specified amount (whatever that might be for an individual resin) then the photo-initiator is "used up" so the resin should act like a comparable casting resin. But I don't find this particularly convincing! Everything I've found on this in more scientific contexts seems very
  14. That looks like the perfect solution! Did you extrude a design of a lattice up/down? I did have a try at doing something similar with the GER wagon, but I think I've designed myself into a bit of a corner in terms of overhangs and levels in the floor to accommodate the etched W irons etc, that would make it tricky without a pretty comprehensive redesign, alas. But I'll definitely try and design it into the next van I start fresh. Justin
  15. I bought a whole load of Märklin Z wagon bodies as "spares or repairs" on eBay to build up a range of stock for my German project much cheaper than usual, even for second hand. The catch is that Märklin don't do wagon chassis or bogies as spares (clearly why these had ended up as they did). So ... Just waiting for more spare wheels to arrive from Märklin in Germany, and body mount magnetic couplers from Micro-Trains in the US. (Repaints into authentic Interfrigo livery clearly also needed for the "Christmas" wagons!) Cheers Jerry! I'm sure they en
  16. The number of test prints to get to something I'm happy with never seems to get any smaller, no matter how many things I design! (which makes me very grateful not to be relying on Shapeways!) Version two tweaked the design to increase the depth of the outside framing, but I forgot to increase the overall thickness of the sides commensurately, so they they came out translucently thin and wavy like a tarp! I also realised I'd forgotten the gap between the two halves of the door. Version three I thickened the sides - but forgot the ends, which have come out a bit bulgy! (other things
  17. Of course - thanks for catching the typo! Chitubox only seems to allow precision to two decimals, but I can't imagine it would really make that degree of difference. The diagram does nicely illustrate the principle, and at least anecdotally it does seem to minimise stepping.
  18. Well, another one of my projects that has ground on very slowly indeed. Not having access to the MakerSpace to work on the main baseboard (I'd designed end plates and risers to laser cut) has been a good reason to procrastinate and work on other things. One recent Z gauge thing - I recently, rather optimistically, bought an eBay lot of Märklin wagon bodies - no chassis. Seemed like a good way to build up a stock of short wheelbase wagons. Despite some spectacularly bad packaging (the box sounded like a bag of Lego coming through the letterbox) they don't s
  19. I can't remember how long ago I started this design for a GER 10t vent van, but I finally got it finished enough for a test print last night. I hadn't looked at RMweb for a while though, and several of the things mentioned this week in this thread would have helped! I'd used sacrificial skirts as Tom illustrated, on a previous design, but forgot to add one here - you can see the distortion from the supports along the bottom of the solebar. The uplift from the build plate was 8mm - but I don't think it was enough - the bottom edge is still a bit distorted. T
  20. I've had an especially busy few months, and barely had the chance to do any modelling, let alone look at RMWeb. I did, however, get the troublesome turnout sorted pretty soon after my last post. Another hybrid Easitrac / etched chair plate affair. In the last few weeks I have squeezed in building a tank wagon based on a prototype spotted in photos of the real Dailuaine. The real thing seems to have been a bit longer than the PECO RCH kit, but I'm happy it's close enough. Built with the Association chassis kit, detailing parts very kindl
  21. This is a real gap in 2mm / N ! The NGS have finally made available their remaining stocks of transfers they produced with Modelmaster years ago, which includes a limited selection of PO liveries, which are quite good. But it's a "while they last" arrangement. There used to be 2mm ranges of rub down PO sides from POWSides and Dragon Models, which I'm pretty sure both got withdrawn. BH Enterprises might well have whatever is left of stocks? Robbie's Rolling Stock has a range of sides, but in my view they're far too crude for 2mm. 1) they are printed on clear
  22. I use a jig (I 3D printed one, which I think is now available from the shop? Or you could easily mill one) that has slots that are quite shallow. When I press the etched chair open over this they only open into a V shape that is just about open enough to slide into the end of a rail, but still grips it. I think the original suggestion was to use a pinboard pin to press the chairs open, but I've found the point of very fine tweezers work better - they're kind of square. Only once the rail is in place and the neighbouring chair is soldered do I "squidge" the etched chair
  23. One other thing I've noticed is that the PCB sleepers themselves can vary in height a bit. I perhaps made the mistake of pouring the last of a years old bag of PCB sleeper strip, and a new one, into the same toolbox compartment, and then noticed after laying some through the crossing of a turnout, there was a daylight gap under the rail on some when it was flush on others. I've bought a few sheets of 0.8mm single sided PCB myself for other bits and pieces, and noticed that within a single A4 sheet, it actually varies from about 0.7mm to 0.9mm. I've no idea if the 2mm Association st
  24. I'm trying to do something similar in a much smaller space (a Z gauge driving coach) - this thread was really useful. But what is the minimum capacitance that would have a noticeable effect in keeping LEDs on? Is there a formula for working out how long a certain capacitance could power an LED (or whatever) at a certain voltage and current? I searched for non-polarised capacitors, but everything I could find at e.g. Farnell was either really really low in capacitance (picofarads) or really big! Realistically in the space I have available, I coul
  25. Exactly this! I've always found it much harder to get a gapless join between a printed body and an etched chassis, compared to a plastic body. You inevitably have supports on the underside, which leave a less than perfectly flat surface when they're removed, and the chances are it won't be entirely 100% flat across the bottom to start with because printing forces don't tend to be perfectly balanced. I've never yet managed to sand the whole underside sufficiently flat across the whole surface to get a perfect fit. I've used an approach copied from "Stockprints" on Shape
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