Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by justin1985

  1. Thanks for all the replies. The wagon stripped with Dettol (Märklin) did clean up well in the end, so I'm not sure if the stickiness was melting plastic, or perhaps one of the components of the original paint that wasn't being dissolved as well as the pigments etc? That is a good tip for renumbers! I wonder if the same is true with Bachmann/Farish printed sector logos etc? Perhaps with all these changes it is time to bite the bullet and buy commercial plastic safe paint strippers? Modelling ones do seem very expensive though! Has anyone been brave enough to try decorating type paint strippers on plastic models? They do at least seem to be a bit more transparent about their active ingredients ... J
  2. Really great to see these made available again! Good range of liveries covering the whole country, including Scotland, which is kinna rare with most PO wagons in N. The original releases were very heavily skewed towards colliery wagons, so good to see a balance of traders and collieries. Price is noticeably higher than before, but not exactly out of step with Farish, especially considering this is a distinctly better moulding. Rails are really carving out a niche for themselves as commissioning and supporting small supplier models in N. See also Cavalex PGAs and Sonic J50s. Seems a great solution all round! J
  3. I'd like to install some proper fume extraction in the space I use for modelling, but don't really know where to start with ductwork and fans. The space I use is an integral garage, entirely within the footprint of my terraced house - the only outside "wall" is the wooden up and over garage door itself (which is very seldom opened and now hard to open, making it even more seldom opened ...) with very minimal brick columns either side (one a party wall, the other wall with the hallway/porch). Therefore, it seems like some kind of temporary, or at least temporarily movable, connection through a hole in the door itself will be the only option? A complication is the fact that my workbench, and where I tend to have other machines etc set up, is at the furthest end of the garage from the external door. That is where the electrical sockets are all located, there is much better lighting, and it is relatively safe from dust that inevitably blows in around the up and over door, despite draught excluders. So I'd prefer to have some kind of ductwork rigged down much of the length of the garage - otherwise I'd have to rig up another workstation of some kind, with electrical supply and lighting, at the far end. I've got an airbrush (which I either try to use outdoors when the weather is good enough, or only briefly, using a 3M respirator before ducking out of the garage while things settle) as well as a resin based 3D printer (which stinks quite badly when running) and now also a small diode based laser cutter (only really used to cut small amounts of card etc so far, but would like to cut more acrylic etc, which would release even more harmful fumes). So I'm looking for a flexible extraction system that could work for all of these. What should I be looking to get? Especially in terms of diameter of ducting, type of ducting, and power of fan? I imagine I'm looking for some kind of slot in/slot out fitting to mount on the door, with one of those flappy outdoor covers (hopefully available in brown to match the wood) - would the type sold for tumble dryers be good for this side of it? If I did want to run the ducting from the "workbench" end of the room down to the external door, I imagine I'd need some combination of rigid ducting (steel?) for the long part of the run, and something flexible to connect both ends. I imagine the flexible ducting varies quite a bit in quality - what to look for? And I imagine I'd need an inline fan - presumably one in the back of a hobby grade portable spray booth type thing (or repurposed kitchen extractor) isn't going to be much use at all if there is any kind of distance to cover? What kind of power / spec would you need for it to be effective at shifting paint fumes or smoke from a laser etc? Many thanks for any tips! Justin
  4. Good question! I asked in May 2020 and was directed to this page, last updated in 2018, which seems to say it is still £82, but also told "the Membership Secretary will be in touch with you when the time is right" to confirm.
  5. Very nice indeed! It seems to look like each system only works (/can be configured/programmed) with the specific DCC controllers from those manufacturers though? (or is that just what they want you to think ... )
  6. Interesting. I like the concept - especially the point switches with physical paddles to switch! It looks like Osborns still sell some new components of the system, pricey though! https://www.osbornsmodels.com/fleischmann-control-systems-316-c.asp Discontinued but still available direct at Fleischmann.de https://www.fleischmann.de/en/product/11838-0-0-0-0-0-0-006001012-0/products.html I've got a vague memory of seeing another system that had little interlocking square tiles that really looked like a "real" powerbox panel. Any ideas who made that?
  7. I built one of the kit versions of these a while back, just to try them out really. Don't recall them being too difficult - so long as you've got a small enough soldering iron bit. If you're tidy with your soldering, it might even be possible to improve on the rather chunky black plastic back-box that clips over the LEDs once you've soldered the connections?
  8. Thanks Klaus. I did figure that whatever material is used to make it into a putty will inevitably make it less heavy than lead formed into a solid - but the trade off sounds like being easier to push into the shape required. I've ordered both the putty and some thin lead shim from eBay, and will experiment. My first attempt at the J72 was long enough ago (10+ years, probably) that eBay and Amazon weren't yet such great sources of the random things you wouldn't otherwise know where to find! Never having fished, I never would have thought of fishing gear shops as a source of lead or tungsten ... but it turns out most of the eBay listings of suitable sizes/quantities of both are in that category.
  9. Thanks again all. Very helpful. I think on the first attempt the lead was especially inefficient in filling the space - if I recall correctly I'd asked my dad if he had any lead around that I could use, and he just cut open a shotgun cartridge and gave me the literal shot! That sounds like a very convenient idea. I had just noticed that looking for lead in small and thin enough packs to work with, most was coming up from eBay's fishing section ... The tungsten putty looks like about £5 per 20g pack - expensive per gram, but hardly the end of the world when we're talking about the amount of space inside a 2mm loco
  10. Very good point - taken. Thanks chaps. I think I'd got the idea from Bill Blackburn's approach in some part finished J15s I acquired with Long Melford (which haven't progressed any further ...). I definitely see the disadvantages though. On the original J72 boiler (which does definitely need to be replaced - holes really are all over the place) I used quite coarse lead shot, and covered the open end with I think Evostick. It rattles like a maraca! I'm pretty sure I'd heard the horror stories about PVA and lead. Any other suggestions for fixing lead inside the tube? Would flooding lead shot with cheap cyano be sensible?
  11. Many thanks for pointing me to these @Nigelcliffe and @2mm Andy. I'll definitely fit the coreless, and thinking of mounting it on a spacer / bracket milled from solid brass for weight. Suspect I could fit a decoder one side, and some capacitors on the other. Will mock up in plasticard to try out the combinations, and decide whether to use the CT or Zimo. I'm also planning to re-make the loco boiler (originally ended up with holes for handrails etc much too big, and poorly lined up) by turning + milling from solid brass. So there shouldn't be any shortage of weight!
  12. Really pleased to see an email from Rails of Sheffield just now announcing that they are releasing this model in N as an exclusive project! https://railsofsheffield.com/collections/n-gauge-pga-hopper-wagons?mc_cid=59622a205a&mc_eid=e588d775c4 Rails really seem to be making a niche for themselves acting as distributors for the smaller designers working in N (e.g. Sonic Models), which must be helping to bring these things to market when they might not have done so otherwise. The downside of course is no potential for discounts against RRP ... and at £89.95 for a three pack, that is a considerable whack ... (but let's not get into criticising prices - £30 per wagon is pretty much on a par with Farish RRPs these days, and frankly it clearly hadn't been viable to produce it at all without Rails stepping in to finance the run). Practical question - how long did the dark green stripe version of the Redland livery last? I can't find many photos of this type at all on Flickr, and only one with the stripe, which is dated 1981. Perhaps most appeared with the plainer version of the Redland livery? (which is the only one I recall ever seeing, before LaFarge) J
  13. Many thanks for all of the replies! That seems pretty clear then - coreless it is! The coreless I've got here is one of a batch of four bought from eBay a good few years ago, and seems the best of the bunch. I get the impression the fear of running worms directly from the shaft of a coreless motor has subsided now? Bob's chassis is designed for that kind of arrangement rather than providing any other kind of mountings for a worm shaft. I guess if the coreless does die, they're at least dead cheap to replace now! Yes definitely planning to chip the loco. At least once it's detailed, painted, fettled and happy enough with running on DC. I've got a few small decoders waiting in a drawer, including one CT chip that's been waiting a good few years (DCX76z - don't know if this one of the ones easy to fit with StayAlive?); ZIMO 616 and 617s, and an ESU Lokpilot Nano. I guess the trick will be to make the speed curve REALLY shallow, to counteract the motor's apparently steep intrinsic speed curve? Thanks again! Justin
  14. I'm building a second attempt at a chassis for a Bob Jones J72. My first attempt was my very first 2mm loco, and I never managed to it quartered properly and running smoothly. The frames got bent totally out of shape in one of several attempts to remove the wheels and re-quarter, so I put it to one side for several years, and got another etch from Bob to do a fresh chassis. (It turns out all of my 7mm PCB spacers were 7.3mm wide - I suspect I'd followed the cut out template instruction a little too literally! That would probably explain why I could never get the quartering and back to back both right at the same time). Anyway, I think I'm making pretty good progress with the replacement. But I need to decide whether to fit the hacked about franken-Mashima motor from the original kit, or substitute a modern small coreless? This is a genetic eBay coreless. It certainly saves an awful lot of space compared to the Mashima - which I guess would leave more room for both weight and DCC + StayAlive. However, the Mashima does seem to turn over much more slowly (if coggily) at the minimum voltage when it moves. With a bit of tape as a "flag", the Mashima has an impressively wide voltage range before the flag becomes a blur. This coreless (and equally others I have like Tramfabreik) only has a very small voltage range before the flag is a blur. Any thoughts on which would be a better trade off in an assembled (shunting) loco? Fast motor with more weight and StayAlive? Or slow motor? J
  15. And Worsley Works does N etches for all of the DEMU Thumper types! Happy to help with 3D printed roofs, underframe equipment etc ... Presumably the wheelbase etc would still work with the Tomix chassis?
  16. Love it - so many boxes ticked with this plan! The four roads with two platforms, but no loco releases seemed a bit odd in terms of 80s era - sounds like you've come up with a good alternative and justification though. The mixed era structures, and engineers yard access really add interest Presumably the yard is off scene, and trains accessing it just run in and run around to access it - that's it? I would have thought some significant Royal Mail infrastructure would also add a lot of interest - but probably either/or with the engineers yard - otherwise in danger of becoming "too much"? J
  17. I've come to the conclusion I'm never going to get the chance to build any of the "modern" 2mm kits that I've picked up, so if anyone wants them, happy to arrange a swap or sale ... Stephen Harris Freightliner set - complete set of inners and outers. Absolutely beautiful etch, but I really can't see a use for it myself now. Instructions in an email I can forward. I've also got a full set of ATM moulded plastic Ridecontrol bogies to go with them, with the correct small (N gauge) wheels, no couplings - happy to sell together or separately. I've also got 2 each of Stephen Harris Catfish and Dogfish, if anyone wants them? Justin Edit - Catfish and Dogfish now spoken for!
  18. Wow. Just .. wow ... Perhaps there should be a railway modelling equivalent to the Carbuncle Cup? This has got to be a candidate for worst mainstream model of the year! The early Bach-Farish First Great Western fag packet Mk2s definitely had some compromises around the "fading" stripes, but they were miles better than this. How do Dapol seem to get colours so consistently washed out looking, and far too matt? It's really disappointing, for a livery I'm really fond of, and would have definitely bought as "rule one" ...
  19. Recently I've tended to use Games Workshop "Purity Seal" in a large spray can. Finish somewhere between matt and satin, and clearly intended for use over their acrylic paints. Never noticed any problems in reacting with paint, decals, or indeed water.
  20. Thanks Ben. Really I'd like help choosing between Yeoman, revised Yeoman, ARC, and Mendip rail - i.e. the earlier liveries. I don't think they'd be a directly prototypical loco for any layout I'm likely to build, so its a "rule 1" purchase, but if there was one livery more likely to have appeared east of London in the mid 90s-mid 00s, that might help sway the decision Cheers Justin
  21. I get the impression I'm not the only one here who is keen to pre-order a 59, but can't decide between the various livery options. I remember when RevolutioN introduced the TEA tankers, and also the 321s, there were some really neat diagrams of services operated and typical routes for the different liveries. I'd really appreciate something like that for the 59s. It look quite a lot of Google detective work to determine that (at least one) Yeoman loco was repainted into the revised livery in 1998. Some more info on dates that the liveries depicted appeared, as perhaps some characteristic routes, would be really helpful. I have fond memories of the Yeoman and ARC liveries mainly through the LIMA OO models I remember having a kid - although only the wagons - my parents never splashed on the "ugly" LIMA cl.59! I don't think the 59s made any regular appearances in East Anglia in the 80s-90s-early 00s era of those liveries - or did they? How about South London? Justin
  22. That sounds unfortunately stubborn on the part of Dapol. I can't help but think it would be better to cut their losses. Don't they also have a OO 59 project, so at least the research wouldn't be wasted? Unless Dapol manage to pull something spectacular out of the bag (feels unlikely based on past performance), or RevolutioN score a spectacular own goal in design or running characteristics (also unlikely based on past performance), then I can only see this going the same way as previous Dapol duplications. I suspect there are still some Dapol B1s gracing bargain bins around the country ... Although I guess at least their 66 has been kept viable by their ability to turn around more new liveries much quicker (and more cheaply) than Farish - but that is not such a factor with the small fleet of 59s ...
  23. I always used to use Fairy Power Spray to strip both factory and enamel/acrylic paint from plastic models. Sealed in a plastic baggie, with occasional attacks from an old toothbrush, it usually took most paint and decals off within an hour or two. Some stubborn colours perhaps needed an overnight bath in it. I recently used up the last of the bottle I had been using (might have been 5 or more years old) and started using a more recently purchased one, which is "New Citrus Scented!". However, after leaving a Märklin wagon in a bag with it for three hours, there was no sign of any paint moving at all. Hard scrubbing took off a tiny bit of one of the colours, but most refused to budge. I'm used to paint peeling off in large layers when left in this stuff. Is the new nice smelling formulation just no good for our purposes anymore? I resorted to Dettol, which did eventually work, but seemed to take a lot more elbow grease with the toothbrush, and left some sticky residue in some places that has been very hard to shift. (The Fairy Power Spray did at least work a bit better at shifting the Dettol stickiness!). Are there other recommendations for household products as paintstripper? I've heard Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner mentioned - is this really safe on plastic? Justin
  24. Great announcement! I'll order one or two. Shunting locos were invariably black, but I can't help wonder whether any J50s ever appeared in green as a depot pet, station pilot etc? I don't claim to be particularly informed, but the photo of 8891 here: https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j50j51.php does seem to suggest a lighter colour? Or were all those Lima models in green that I coveted as a kid entirely fictitious?
  25. Very true - but the Hornby models being accurate only for, I think, the original 1920s ECML sets, hasn't stopped them selling them by the bucketload to modellers focused on different eras and locations! I suspect the only sensible approach would be to tool a line-up that is accurate for one particular era or usage, however arbitrary, to satisfy purists, and guide what vehicle types in what proportions, but in the full knowledge that most buyers would use them in other ways. Whether that is an accurate VSOE set as running in 1982, or an LNER east coast set running in 1928, its a starting point for those wanting to be super accurate for another time or place. (e.g. if a new model was released of 1920s K-types in a few variations, you could split a Hornby-Arnold 5-BEL to add those style coaches - different roof ends - to yield an accurate VOSE set, if you really wanted ...) It seems pretty remarkable that N has lacked any model of probably the most iconic of all British coaches, since the days of Poole Farish! Someone has to do some steam era Pullmans some day ...
  • Create New...