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Granger

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  1. Thanks, for all the suggestions. The guitar string arrived and is excellent for the job. I wonder if I may have to provide an update with the finished item when I get there? Thanks
  2. Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to try guitar string to start with and see how it goes. Thanks again
  3. Hello all, I've recently been working on some N Gauge semaphores and want to get them operating using a servo, however, I need some wire to achieve this. I'm looking for something around 0.5mm dia. (but between 0.4 and 0.6 should work). I've had limited experience with wire this thin (having worked with much thinker piano wire for something else). What I'm looking for is a wire that can easily be bent to 90 degrees bit if rigid enough to operate the signal correctly. I wonder if anyone has any recommendation or experience with a suitable wire that might guide my purchase. Regards
  4. Hello, I haven't thoroughly tested the loco yet, but I've replaced the traction tyres and trimmed the plastic I'd added for the screw. This appears to have significantly improved performance with general smooth running in both directions. Tha k you for your help, just a bit of fine tuning required now.
  5. Hello all, Thanks for the detail, I never thought this simple question would elicit so many responses. I'm currently unable to look at the loco and will be unable to for a week or so. I think I'm going to start by looking at some plastic I added to the the loco body because the screw holes had worn - I think this might be impeding the wheels. I'm confident the motor works and I'm also confident that there's now enough weight in the tender although I don't think I have the Fleischmann weights. I was wondering about the traction tyres as I originally mistook them for copper (or similar) rings (presumably to aid pick-ups, but soon realised they weren't. I other words I think they've gone hard. To jump in on the debate about the body kit. The casting is hardly detailed but I wouldn't describe it as crude. I think there is limited cab detail if that helps? Thanks
  6. Thanks for the quick responses. I've now applied some oil to the loco wheel bearings and con-rods. This has somewhat improved performance, and I think this was probably my original problem. Since then I have added a piece of plastic because the screw holes in the body were too wide with wear and I think this may now be pressing down on 1 axle. Unfortunately, I won't be able to look at this for about a week & a half, but hopefully when I do, I'll find it's a simple fix. Regards
  7. Hello, Firstly, I am new to this forum although I have made a few comments on other topics. Please, if I have done anything wrong, instruct me on how to correct my mistake. Thank you. My problem is that I have recently acquired an N gauge kit-built loco of unknown origins on a Fleischmann chassis (photos attached). To clarify, although if you know the chassis your probably aware, the motor is in the tender and the pick-ups are on the loco wheels. After thoroughly servicing, I managed to get things running smoothly off track. When on the track, the loco stuggles to push the loco (forward) and is only slightly better at hauling (reverse). The wheels just spin indicating a lack of traction so I've added some lead weight to the tender but I've just about exhausted the amount I can fit in it. I do think the loco body seems to have a little too much weight and that maybe removing some of this would help (at least the loco runs okay with the loco body removed), however, I'm too scared to do this for fear of damaging the body or ruining the aesthetics. In short what I'm asking is whether anybody can shed any light on the make of the white metal body kit and how, if at all, I can remove some weight from the loco body. Also, are there usually any problems with the Fleischmann 2-10-0 chassis not having enough traction? I'm largely unfamiliar with European manufacturers but the few experiences I have had have all been positive. Thanks in advance.
  8. @Hattons Dave I understand that currently things will be very uncertain and development is likely to be even slower than it was before, however, are there any further updates to be made? For example, are you any closer to reaching your pre-order target? Mitchell
  9. Completely agree. The OO gauge version has always been a stand-out model. The garratt has always been one of the main models that was missing from the RTR N gauge market. Though I can understand that people might want different locomotives modelled we can't all have our wishlist produced RTR on a mass scale. That's where scratch- and kit-building comes in. Furtgermore, whilst I can understand that not everyone agrees with the project or with the choice of prototype, but I think we will all appreciate it when it appears on respective club, exhibition and personal layouts. For these reasons I hope the project is advanced with haste very soon. I'm sure Hattons know what they're doing with marketing, pre-orders, etc. and you can hardly blame them for not wanting to proceed if they don't think its financially safe. Mitchell
  10. Hello, I also appreciate the appreciate the clarification though it would've been nice to have through another medium be that the website, magazines or even an email to those who have placed pre-orders (not sure of that's possible but it's a suggestion). In the event that you don't reach the necessary number of pre-orders what would happen? I'm assuming the project would be called off? And as an interested party, can Hattons provide any more information? For example a potential release date - I know this is very subjective and would be highly vague but even just this year/next year/next decade even? Also, are you setting a cut-off date for pre-orders or something like that? Mitchell
  11. Definitely about risky, what a great looking machine. If it's not been produced in OO theres no way it'll even be considered for N.
  12. Hello all, I am relatively new to this (I mean forums) but couldn't help getting in on the conversation. I understand what you're all saying about N being a smaller market and needing more publicity and better models to showcase, but I don't wonder if part of it is down to size and eyesight, as you have already touched on. I personally know a few modelers who have switched from N to OO in their old age because they can't see what they're doing at the smaller scale. I'm sure we all aware that railway modelling has an aging fan base and I wonder if this isn't the issue. Also, I have always thought that the appeal of N was it's size. I have recently started developing smaller N Gauge layouts at home in order to showcase the potential of N to make good use of a small space. I just wonder if that isn't a feature that we should be focusing on showcasing at these larger exhibitions as well as excellently detailed and scenic models as you have suggested. Personally, I don't contribute a huge amount to the N Gauge market because I am a University student and money is, therefore, tight, however, I couldn't resist forking out for one the Hattons Garratts. Personally, I buy a lot second-hand but even in the few years I have been modelling N I have seen a great improvement in the quality and quantity of RTR N models - dare I say, they are as good as OO now? It is the following points that N advertising/showcasing should focus on: Better use of space than other scales RTR models of equal detail/quality as OO Increasing range To finish, I have also noticed an increase in the popularity of N over the last few years at the club. A couple of years ago we had 3/4 N gauge members but now we have increased our membership to nearer 10 and we aren't a huge club.
  13. I've just flicked through this topic; impressive what you've achieved. What CAD software do you use? I use a free SolidWorks version I've been able to get hold of but its very limited. So far I've only been able to create simple tools like railers. I notice the frequent topic of the price. Personally, I print my designs at home with an Ender 3 Printer (https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-ender-3-3d-printer_p0019.htm). You can buy them cheaper elsewhere; I paid £165 for mine. But when you consider I've already made about £80 or so back on that by selling my railers on eBay, its a sound investment. I did manage to print this very basic 45mm gauge loco: All in, this cost me about £20 but the printing was only about £3-4. Quality isn't as good as Shapeways, etc. but its good enough if you sand it down a little here and there. My next project was to build a FNA(?) nuclear flask wagon but I can't seem to find any rough dimensions anywhere; any recommendations? I think that's the correct name but someone might wish to correct me. Excellent work though Mitchell
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