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Lochgorm

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  1. A more fitting tribute would to spell his name correctly! Charlie PS I am surprised that nobody has picked up on this particular howler before.
  2. Vernon, If you can get your hands on a copy of MRJ 135 Laurie Griffin described how he scratch built the radial boxes for a L&Y 2-4-2 tank. I don't think he was heavily dependent on an armoury of machine tools. Cheers Charlie
  3. You can see one from the North British Railway Company though! Charlie
  4. Correct. Slaters wheels achieve the correct B2B by the machining of the axle and moulding the wheel so that the surface of the brass centre and the inside of the steel tyre are in the same plane./ Charlie
  5. For the 0 Gauge 3/16 axles the thread is 6BA and the it looks like a 1/4" socket screw is required. I can see 1/2" ones on EBay but maybe some of the specialist screw suppliers can assist. Charlie
  6. This is getting far more complicated than it needs to be! The is big red herring here is not which part of a Slaters wheel the back to back is measured from. Back to back is determined by the length of the round part of the axle between the squared off facings which secure the wheels. This dimension is 29.2mm. The exercise then becomes a matter of measuring the distance over the faces of the wheel bearings and comparing this to 29.2mm. It should be shorter! It is then a matter of using packing washers to minimise slop whilst maintaining running clearance. Slaters supply these
  7. Nowhere in these instructions http://www.jimmcgeown.com/0 Gauge Starter Loco pdf print off.pdf does Jim recommend 1.5mm of slop. The instructions state that the chassis has been designed narrow for coarse scale wheel sets to be used, and go on to say that the bearings should be eased out for finescale wheels. Jim reckons that a distance of 28-28.5mm over the faces of the bearings is just about right. Charlie
  8. PRComponents sell a nice 50thou Allen Key set in a solid brass handle for Slaters wheels. I can't advise of the present cost as I got mine some time ago but it has certainly stood the test of time. Charlie
  9. Amanda, These jigs are available from the Scale 7 Group stores: https://www.scaleseven.org.uk/index.php?id=165 I don't know if these components can be sold to non-members of the group but membership costs £25.00 and one of the benefits is a 10% discount on Slaters products. Therefore the membership cost can be recouped. Charlie
  10. A year's membership of the Scale 7 Group is £25 and as well as access to the Scale 7 stores members benefit from a 10% discount on Slaters products. It doesn't take long to recoup the cost of membership. No prizes for guessing which organisation I left in the spring and which one I joined. In fact it is a major disappointment that the continuous, circular and acrimonious whinging from the Guild forum has spilt over here. And before any bright spark suggests it, wild horses wouldn't tempt me to rejoin the Guild. Charlie
  11. This has been done before using Tri-ang Lords of the Isles. Hopefully somebody can point you in the direction of the 50+ year old copy of the Railway Modeller (or other contemporary magazine) in which this has been written up. Charlie
  12. Mike, You do seem to be a long way off piste now led astray by some idiosyncratic etching and lack of instructions. I was typing out some thoughts on how to continue from where you had reached but I have just seen that you have resolved you own plan of attack. Therefore I will keep schtum and watch your posts, as I usually do, with interest. In spite of your experiences I would still recommend the Ambis units as the NBR examples work for me in my choice of pre-grouping Scottish rolling stock. Good Luck! Charlie
  13. Interesting, do the bearing carriers not have a half etched groove so that they can be folded down at the top? Charlie
  14. No Mike, the bearing carrier is mounted as you have shown in your photo. I may have confused matters with my example by dispensing with the outer layer of the bearing carrier and using instead the axle box which has suitable rectangular area on the back. The holes for the spring wires are drilled 0.5mm 3mm in from the back of the axleguard as close to the top of the fold up crossmember as possible. The spring wire just straddles through these 2 holes secured by bending the ends over allowing sufficient length for full downwards deflection. Yes I have folded the tops o
  15. Mike, Ambis instructions for the axleguards are in the Hobby Holidays website. You will find them by selecting ‘Links’ on the Home page. The instructions are included amongst the downloads. However, the instructions are not exactly helpful leading me to experiment using my own instincts. I have attached some photos which shows the results of my efforts. I drilled some extra holes in the frames of the axleguard frames to take spring wire. I haven’t yet worked out the optimum diameter of spring wire but 0.3-0.4mm to avoid overweighting the wagon. My trials are ongoing also!
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