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  1. Now that's something I might be able to successfully 3D Print!
  2. It is built such that it can be exported to a resin printer which I am considering purchasing. The learning curve on actually producing viable models from that is almost vertical, so I wouldn't wait around for me! Also, it is built with only a vague passing resemblance to a drawing - it has nowhere near the in-depth research applied that Michael's kit has. I will be ordering one for sure. Another vertical learning curve to climb - but my father is on these journeys with me also, and we've been busy making axle alignment jigs and rolling roads - the design for which is half-way to first assembly and test. My advice is to put an order in with Michael for a Judith Edge version.
  3. Good chance of it. Any loco of that age I buy S/H I strip it completely and soak/toothbruth all the 'grease' off using IPA. I had a Replica 57xx that was a wonderful runner when it was packed away in 1992.... the green grease had set into a glue in the intervening years - the motor didn't even buzz (glad I didn't melt the windings!) Stripped, cleaned, relubed, it's as sweet as it ever was.
  4. @HeadstockIt looks as if the best way to make that Buffet coach pictured as a model would be use a transparent coach side, paint the livery onto it, and bond etched metal windowframes onto that! I wonder if thick aluminium foil can be laser cut... @thegreenhowardsI do like your tourist stock set - any more action photos of them? I don't know if their livery survived the war, but rule #1 would apply for me, I'd put them behind an apple green V2 and run a seaside special! I think I'd be in a queue if they ever came up for sale...?
  5. Turning into Rod Hull is only possible after coming off Nidd from Bank (or Moorgate) with a 'Rushton Swing', or if Cliff Richard is on the panel. Whichever, you're two moves from Mornington Crescent. The EMUs are slightly smaller (and capable of tighter turns) in all these cases.
  6. Yeah... I was looking at this too thinking 'that's not right...' They should look like this:
  7. I think it would be fine - with a little red paint. If you can find an appropriate brand, then I'd say you're on your way. Fina as a brand didn't exist until 1953 in the UK (from the cursory research I just performed - they were 'Cities Service Oil Company Ltd' from 1927 to 1953) but the colour is otherwise OK.
  8. Alternatively or in addition, just put a wash over each of the LEDs to vary the brightness/colour. A straight wash would probably do it, but transparent acrylic (I used to use Tamiya) should do a better job - 'smoke' and orange, mixed down with a bit of clear, maybe?
  9. Cor, you had to have a head for heights for that duty! Is that the Coronation Train, possibly with the observation car on the tail?
  10. Seems like you want a 'Class A' tank (for avgas) and from various sources, in 1939, it would probably have had the 'yellow stone' or aluminium finish with red striping, as outlined below. First a thread showing previously referenced items from above: And trust the IGG to have some good livery notes: https://www.igg.org.uk/rail/6-livy/odds/9-tankliv.htm from which: So perhaps (in OO) you're looking for something like the Bachmann 37-650K Tank “Charles Roberts & Co”. Tanks you might see with aluminium bodies without the red striping, but red solebars are likely postwar-styled liveries - e.g. Bachmann 37-659C. You should be able to find (or build) exactly what you want with all this. And to finish, a converted 'Class B' tank in the flesh: https://www.bluebell-railway.co.uk/bluebell/wagon/1921.html
  11. I see some 1970s Hornby points among a few Peco items. I think Roy's on the right lines for separating the points out, Dremel the regular track either side of the point will allow you to remove it for desoldering on the bench. I'm doing a lot of house renovation at the moment, I've been using decorators wallpaper scrapers for all sorts of uses they're not intended for. One I keep sharpened with a chisel point and it's remarkably effective. What we have is a nice large area to spread the load - another similar but less sturdy item would be a metal fish slice! If the points aren't glued, and you have good access from the side (possibly made from methodical removal of everything else) then a tool like this might help. The point should lift a little with a fingenail pull, just enough to insert the blade under. Then you have a large lifting area to slide up to the side of the track pin and ease upwards. As soon as enough of the head is free, you should be able to pull it with some fine nose pliers... or you might use some fine top-cutting pliers (or possibly the Dremel) to snip the pin heads off - then lifting the points becomes almost trivial. I'd be selective - those early Hornby units probably aren't worth saving!
  12. Alright, now that's good. How many hours of painting alone are in that?
  13. https://www.anyrail.com/en/download It's safe.
  14. Alan Gibson does some strips for boiler bands - you 'just' cut them to length and stick them on. V2 body looks fabulous. Sounds like you had a fun Christmas! Both the valve gear hangers and the rear pony truck centres are pretty weak - one of the reasons I want to buy a printer, so that I can print replacements. I have a fleet of V2s, B16s and V1/3s that all need similar repairs.
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