FoxUnpopuli
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Posts posted by FoxUnpopuli
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I've made a prototype wireless handheld throttle for a DCC++ basestation by modifying Dave Bodnar's hardware and code for an Arduino. Might be useful for you - the links (and my revised code, as far as it got) are elsewhere in this forum.
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10 hours ago, Gibbo675 said:
Somewhat like Clive's cut and shut coaches !
I'm only Push and Pulling his leg.
If they're being piloted by a Caprotti, are you sure you're not just twisting one of his (universal) joints?
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Again, beautiful modelling. The teched sides and observation car rear casting look fantastic...
The silver-chrome paint - I see from your original thread that you used a foil over the lettering afterwards and I think the photograph shows this... but how thick was that foil? It must have been almost gold-leaf thin!?
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1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:
Anything past 1974 is modern.
Oi. I resemble that remark!
(Mark, aged 46½.)
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The "Bramble and Bush" (or perhaps "Bramble and Briar") sounds like a great pub name.
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We had a toughened glass balcony screen shatter due to incorrect clamp fitting in the steel handrail supports. You could see on the crazed panel left in the clamps where the mount was misaligned and the bolt was bearing on the hole in the glass, which had caused a stress-raiser enough to 'pop' it.
Surprised quite a few people who were standing in the area underneath. No injuries!
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On 04/10/2020 at 11:22, Harlequin said:
WARNING: This graphic almost pointless!
But it's so pretty!
37 minutes ago, Harlequin said:You can see that the result from the Chinese device on the left is significantly further away (76.18, -3.08, 37.97) than the Canadian Nix device on the right (76, -21, 49). Similar results are seen when measuring random colours across the fan - the Chinese device is never as close as the Nix.
eBay awaits. People will buy anything these days. We bought a car maybe four years ago for £700, running, with MOT. Just sold it as MOT fail with some recent unfortunate damage for over a grand.
Down is up I swear.
I digress. I have to agree with an opinion above - pick a paint, if it looks good, it's right. I would also suggest that pretty much all the 'colours' in your lovely chart could be observed on GW locos at one time or another, so maybe you can't get it wrong!
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How about an Egyptian Serif - like the GREAT WESTERN on the tender?
This one was: https://www.1001fonts.com/fetteegyptienne-font.html
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Not jealous at all. However, not getting one in the initial rush has given me the opportunity to look at the Photon Mono X. Don't know if it's slightly taller Z gives it a practical advantage. Definitely looks like a nice piece.
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Two entry/exits?
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Add or subtract. Either a tiny cut length from the end of one of the pieces of Setrack to insert between the upper turnouts... or... trim the noses of the two lower turnouts. Shouldn't think the latter would be an issue.
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I too wish to recreate Flying Fox, but in 1946 guise as 106 - so I'd be interested in that journey.
I bought a nice S/H late BR 60017 Silver Fox created from a Bachmann A4. It needs some renovation but it was built with care and I'm not sure I'll try taking it back to blue. After I've brought it up to spec I think I'll either gift it to my Father or see if I can swap it on RMWeb for an earlier LNER Pacific.
It's a shame so few of the RTR Pacifics are numbered in the 1946 ranges. For A4s the valance removal makes me a bit nervous, but I have a few GBL A4s stashed away to try. Still, that makes it modelling, as opposed to collecting.
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Never been a better time than to go and look at a real tree.
Just about the only thing you can hug right now.
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A4 liveries and their timings are listed on 'BRDatabase' (among other places.) I think A3s too, maybe not as complete.
Example:
http://www.brdatabase.info/locoqry.php?action=locodata&type=S&id=600104024&loco=4464
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Since you have Tuffrey's book - look carefully at the valve guides on the front of the cylinder block. The type on your model (and the old Bachmann) are the early type fitted to the first five locos (4771-5/60800-60804).
It's something I need to buy (or print) a few sets of as I have lots of old Bachmann V2s in a queue for detailing. Eventually.
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Sorry - no pics of the three locomotives you list, in either LNER pre/post 1946 or in BR days as requested in Tuffrey's book.
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4 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:
I suspect the paint which curdled was an old layer of varnish applied by whoever built the model originally - probably 20 years ago judging by the signature on the bottom. I’ll try IPA next time but what is the difference between meths and IPA - they’re both basically alcohol aren’t they?
Since you asked:
They are both alcohols... but organic chemistry is a big subject.
IPA refers* to a particular variety of propanol, slightly diluted with water*. Propanols have three carbon atoms in the chain, compared to ethanol's two, and methanol's one. The stuff you want for cleaning locos (or track, or airbrushes) is 99%+ IPA.Methylated spirit is* a mix of ethanol, methanol* and some purple dye*, scents* and nasties* to make it taste horrible.
In my (and sounds like your) experience, meths is a fair bit more aggressive than IPA...* Given a choice, I'd stick to IPA. Neither are particularly good for the skin.
Yes, IPA in 70% form is used in hand-sanitiser - with other things like glycerin and maybe some more water. No, it's not as good as washing your hands properly with soap.
If consumed, both methylated spirits and IPA are lethal, so keep them away from the mixers.
All of this (except the simplified comparison of how aggressive they are) is detailed further on Wikipedia. Aside from the two solvents in question, this page gives you a broader view: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvent
* (usually)
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1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:
R6624 was a three pack and R6692/A/B were single wagons. I bought about 10 of the single wagons whenHornby were selling them off at £9.99 each and I had one of the three packs. The others came in bad dribs and drabs when I saw a bargain.
Did Hornby do an LNER version of this? I see a Parkside kit... but not anything RTR pre-BR?
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"Where do these stairs go?"
"They go up..."
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I see what you did there.
Weathering works well - looks like it got washed recently, but very quickly, on a Friday afternoon!
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Tidy. The only thing that jumps out at me is that to use the loco headshunt, the loco has to back into the shed...
... maybe a three-way point entering the shed would work to your advantage?
You might also use another off the end of your platform to the sidings - gets then a little more length.
Gimme a few minutes, I'll do an Anyrail image...
I've used Code 75 Streamline and I've foreshortened your platforms to just get it down, but you get the idea. The 3-way at the platform doesn't look as 'good value' as the one entering the shed as it affects your platform length... also bear in mind if you're using code 100, the 3-way is symmetrical so it would look different again.
I look forward to seeing others' thoughts on this, but I think what you put down was already a neat little station.
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Nice. From my fire duties on the SVR it's not outside the realm of possibility that a thoughtful signalman might have a few fire buckets stashed by the fence just in case exiting locomotives throw cinders onto the bank.
You could even trim and blacken a little patch on the grass? (Might be going a bit far. Also I meant blacken using paint. Please don't set fire to your layout.
)
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4 hours ago, John Tomlinson said:
Some good advice here. Re. the factory grease I would add a note of caution that if the loco won't move under power, and has been unused for sometime, then DON'T keep the power on. It is quite possible the whole thing is gummed solid and doing so will burn out the motor. Instead, dismantle, examine and clean, and only apply power again when there is some play in the mechanism.
The "Pancake" type motors in Lima locos, and similar ones in older Hornby ones, do display this tendency to loosen up after running for a few seconds. It isn't a defect specific to your loco. I've found that however clean and properly lubricated they are, it just happens after any period of inactivity. Sorry, I can't give you a scientific explanation!
I had stored a number of locomotives for ~20 years, and returned them to service last Christmas.
Regarding paragraph 1 above: a Replica (Bachmann) 57xx Pannier had set its green factory grease absolutely solid. The entire loco was stripped, cleaned with IPA, re-lubed and then ran as finely as it ever did.
Regarding paragraph 2: Hornby Ringfield pancakes can take a while to get going, but I found this to be lube having set in the (brass?) axletubes in the tender chassis. I stripped the axles out and soaked the axletubes through with IPA, poking scraps of kitchen towel through until pristine. These locos ran as well as they ever did after that... not that that was that great!
20 minutes ago, DK123GWR said:Thank you all for the interesting replies. It seems that for both situations the answer falls into one of two broad categories: wearing away rough parts which interfere with running and overcoming problems caused by old/poor lubricants. Is that a fair summary?
Yes, if a little light. Rough parts in the gear train.
If you are buying secondhand or recomissioning, strip them down and clean off all the old goop with IPA. You'll find anything brittle and/or needing replacement along the way - don't forget to check motor brushes. Reassemble and relube sparingly with good oil (research what here on RMWeb.)
As for new locos, the number of modern (steam) locos that have trouble out-of-the-box seems startlingly high to me - before zipping new machines around on half-throttle, I'd carefully inspect the motion at very low speed, both ways, both sides. Ensure all the conrod nuts are wound in and are not catching. If it's good - time for the run-in. After a few minutes, inspect the underside of the loco for excessive factory lube spewing out. If you see any, best strip it and clean out the excess. You can do this before you start... regardless of manufacturer or loco type, this seems to be highly variable... but there's some merit in only fixing it if it's broke(n).
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It can be scientifically proven that parenthood is heriditary.
If your parents did not have children, it's highly likely you won't have any either.
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Building and developing a Bodnar DCC++ Handheld Throttle
in DCC Discussion Topics (not questions)
Posted · Edited by FoxUnpopuli
Sorry I've been off radar for so long.
It's great you've tried (and modded) the new code! Yes, I have had my code up and running connected to a base station using radio. I used a Mega for my DCC++ station, it will let me do some extra things with the outputs.
I do agree the keymapping could do with a bit of work, it's not the most intuitive, but it's still early doors.
The intent was to put in a top menu with turnout/signal control in, but it's tricky to get much info on all the points of the layout on such a small screen! I was thinking 'route selection'... but then setting it up using the keypad would be even more of a nightmare. We're getting towards full keyboard use...
Well done all, great stuff.