Jump to content

Robert Stokes

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

62 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The three to the right of the box look to me to be insulfrog points which must mean that they are code 100. The three-way point on the left looks to be electrofrog but is definitely code 100 because the corresponding one in code 75 is asymmetrical. The one on the right hand side looks to me to be a curved left hand point and the one next to the box is its partner a curved right hand point. The one between them is a medium radius right hand point. Their product number from left to right are SL-E99, SL-86, SL-95, SL-87. Robert
  2. I wanted to do the same to the wheels on some Lima parcel vans so they would run on code 75 track. I used a grinding wheel in a Dremel to grind them down as I turned them. The procedure worked well and I think was successful. I have since sold them and the buyer said he was very pleased with them as he used code 75 track as well. Having said that, I don't think it will be so easy on the driving wheels of an engine unless you remove them first. Robert
  3. Here's another update. I've made good progress since last month's update. This is because on three days in the last fortnight my wife has been out for most of the day on shopping trips with friends. (I think it's really just an excuse to sit in cafes chatting.) This means that I can spend hours in the shed with a clear conscience. I've installed the station boards over the top of the fiddle yard, laid the underlay for the double track main lines and started laying track on it. The up line is nearly complete. In fact it looks complete but the two points and the first piece of track to the right of them aren't stuck down and don't have droppers fitted either. I have removed the springs from the points but haven't fitted their Tortoise motors yet. The platforms are the ones from the old layout just plonked in roughly the right position. They will have to be replaced because they are a little too tall and got damaged when removing them Please excuse the tools and other junk at the back of the layout - I was never the tidiest of workers. By the way, hanging from the roof are the I.D. backscenes from the previous layout. It was the only place that I could store them. Looking at the complete up line I wondered whether a train would run round it. It would rely on the track joiners for power on the sections with no droppers but that might not matter. Also the point blades were floating free but since they are trailing points that might not matter either. Well it worked. I've triad including videos of two trains going round but this forum won't accept them.
  4. I'm going out on a limb with the following comment. I realise that trains with coaches having mixed liveries were not uncommon on the real railways in the 1950s/60s but for some reason I don't think they look right in model form. I once had a train of Lima parcel vans in carmine and cream and I bought a maroon one to go in the middle but really didn't like it so sold it on. I now stick to carmine and cream for all my coaches, even if not strictly correct for time period, as I like that livery much more than the plain maroon.
  5. Has anyone bought and used DCC Concepts 4mm working point rodding? How easy is it to use? I am building a layout with Peco bullhead code 75 track and points. The track plan is much like that of the (now closed) station of Little Salkeld on the Settle and Carlisle line. I will work the points with Tortoise slow-action motors but I would like the point rodding to move as if it were doing the job. I am particularly concerned with how rodding crosses one track to get to another beyond it. Does it pass just below the rails or does it pass lower down between two sleepers? When ballasting, how do you prevent the rodding getting stuck in one position? A picture of this finished would be very helpful., Thank you for any advice.
  6. I'm no expert but they look broken to me. You can clearly see that the hole you have marked on the upper one is larger than the others and there is no reason why this should be so. The lower one also looks broken and with a slightly larger hole.
  7. I keep my wiring in place with a large staple gun and heavy duty staples. When they first go in they leave the wires loose. In this condition they are easily removed with a screwdriver. When you are sure that you have the wires where you want them, tap the staples with a pin hammer to tighten them.
  8. And both statements contradict their email reply to me that the double slips should be available by the end of this year. Would it have been more honest for all three respondents to have said, "We don't know when they will be available. You'll just have to wait."
  9. I also use the brown and blue wires from inside house mains cable for my bus wires. Although you waste all the outside insulation it's quite a cheap source for the wires. You may even be able to use the copper earth wire for something later. I also use 7/0.2 for the droppers which are attached to every individual piece of track. If you have already laid the track then it will not be easy to attach the droppers in a way that makes them almost invisible but perhaps it will look all right with ballasting. In order to get something running quickly you could wire up only one of the circuits to start with. I have an NCE Power Cab and although I don't normally run four trains at a time I was able to do so when my grandchildren came for a visit. This is because all of my locos are fairly recent (i.e. last 15 years) and so each one doesn't take much current. Locos which are much older do take more current. Good luck with the project. Edit. To avoid running a train through points set the wrong way, have about 50cm or so in front of the point frog isolated on one rail and connect it to power via the point motor or an accessory attached to the point motor. I use Tortoise slow action motors which have switched contacts for this purpose.
  10. You don't hang about do you! You've made more progress in a day than I would in a week and I'm retired.
  11. I can't see what the scale of the diagram is, so I can't work out the gradient of that incline, but I think it looks as though it will be fearsome.
  12. You may have missed another thread on which I said that I had contacted Peco about the bullhead double slips. Their reply was that "they should be available by the end of this year".
  13. Model railway shops, like many other types of high street shop, are closing because of internet buying. This is undoubtedly the modern trend and will only increase. You may not like it but you can't buck the trend. I don't think that all the talk about reviving the high street will succeed. You have to recognise change and adapt to it. It reminds me of mathematics teachers who tried to stop the use of calculators. I always told them that their arguments would have some weight if they confirmed that they didn't use a washing machine and did all their washing by hand. Robert Edit. I'm lucky that Rails of Sheffield is only anout 35 miles away but they only have an actual shop because of their huge online sales.
  14. Yes, that was the obvious answer which never occurred to me. I did contact them and their reply was "they should be available before the end of this year".
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.