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Everything posted by Tim123

  1. Most likely it’s a copy and paste error, but has the 2-2-2 (sorry, 0-6-0) Jinty been updated with a better motor and DCC 8pin socket?
  2. You’re on target for the prize I mentioned! You may not like it though, it’s a years pre-paid 12 month subscription to Facebook. Yes, a whole year for free. But only if you “like”, “share” and “subscribe”, whatever that lot means!
  3. Ok Ruff, make your full prediction right up to 24th December. If you're spot on I'll award you with a prize, but only if you like and share :-)
  4. Yes, though I think you may need to make a slight alteration to the glazing - been a while since I did mine. Just remember to pull the buffers out before unclipping the body.
  5. Track magic contains a by-product of the petroleum industry. Prohibited from being sent by Royal Mail, so a courier is the only way of sending it. £30 from mainland UK to Ireland is the going rate unfortunately. With customs / VAT changes the business I work for no longer sends anything “abroad” ie no Royal Mail postcode (plumbing supplies)
  6. 36-567A is the Bachmann Next18 decoder, RRP £37.95. Discounted priced are around £33 ish. And when you open the box it's a Zimo decoder inside! Given Zimo use the same motor drive circuitry on all its decoders and there's no lights or servo being operated then a £20 Zimo is ideal. Depends of the decoder was needed right there and then, and that there wasn't a cheaper alternative?
  7. As long as the speaker’s resistance is a minimum of 8 ohms it will be fine. Any less and the amplifier on the decoder will at best get very hot, worst case it could burn out.
  8. Hi, like the earlier City of Leicester the loco mechanism and entire tender is from the standard plastic bodied range. The main difference is the metal loco body and the packaging. I'm sure the latest MN chassis has flywheel drive, it's a very smooth runner. Hornby use an 8 pin decoder socket in the tender, and there's provision for sound should you wish to fit it.
  9. Hello @AY Mod @nicolal123 My gold status has vanished, should last until next March. I can log on to World of railways and view the monthly magazines.
  10. Thanks. Joining the NGS will more than likely happen once I receive the locos and decide if N is for me. Been modelling in OO since Santa delivered my first trainset at Christmas 1970 so I'll need to get used to things being smaller.
  11. I am about to inherit some Farish Poole diesel locos which have been in storage for a while. They have been tested recently, and they either clicked when running or the motors hummed with no movement. From the descriptions given they are class 20, 25, 33, 37, 47 and a central motored HST, all have black plastic gears and 5 pole motors. Until I see the locos I'm having to assume that some of the gears on the drive wheels have failed, and possibly also the intermediate gears. I'm comfortable dismantling mechanisms and changing gears and would prefer to do the work myself. So are all the gears within the bogies available as spares? I've looked at Farish N Spares website, but I can't find any online exploded diagrams of the bogies for any class of loco. Are any particular gears no longer available? Also can the drive wheel sets be easily dis-assembled and replacement gears fitted? if so what size / how many teeth for a typical diesel loco?
  12. Tim123

    EBay madness

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363497467396 Maybe a smaller speaker would help?
  13. Could someone measure the set when fully assembled please. I'm planning on revisiting N gauge and would like to know for platform lengths and hidden sidings. Thanks.
  14. This advert is COMPLETED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW (retail stock)

    Replacement metal chassis block castings for the Hornby Scot / Patriot locos. The are for the super-detailed models which can suffer from mazac rot. Main chassis casting and motor retainer, parts X7219 and X9741. The original locos were made by Sanda Kan, whereas these are from another factory, so the screw hole threads may differ from the original loco, but it can be done. UK sales only, sorry but I have had issues sending items abroad post Covid / Brexit.


  15. Found this on Peter's Spares, as the TTS Mk1 sound model is listed as a spare part. I'm assuming they're in the order of F1, F2 etc. If not I'm sure you can match them up! Air Spanner Cockerel Crowd Dawn Chorus Dog Guards Whistle Rake Boiler Riveter Slam Doors Slow Workshop Stable Steam Train Passing Wagons
  16. The first few batches of this loco were not DCC ready. 32-502 went on sale in 2002, but from 2005 onwards the loco had an 8 pin decoder socket located in front of the motor. As its not a "split frame" construction there will be room for a decoder up front, possibly in the smokebox. However fitting the decoder will require sole soldering. Hope this helps.
  17. I've found that dismantling the chassis and removing either the pod motor or one of the intermediate gears helps. Line up the wheels as per David's reply. De-grease the slots for the axles and the wheel inner rims. When the quartering is correct the loco should push along the track without binding. On re-assembly screw the baseplate retaining screws into the two spacers first, it will make it easy to pull them back into position. Tiny drop of Power Lube on the axles helps conduct electricity and quietens the noise a bit.
  18. Further thoughts - the motor getting hot is a result of a defect / failure point in the motor. The all plastic motor housing dismantles without any tools, it’s all “snap together” plastic tabs. Replace the motor with part X9674. It’s advertised as fitting the class 37 which uses the same internal housing and gears. However you will need to solder the motor feed wires. At the same time I’d remove the suppression capacitor as it plays no part when a decoder is used. If you have another non sound decoder, say a standard Hornby one, test the loco using that. Once satisfied fit a a replacement TTS decoder.
  19. If possible put a blanking plug into the loco putting back to DC power only, and place an ammeter in series with the output of a DC controller. On either an oval if track of a rolling road the loco ought to pull around 100 milliamps running on its own. Any momentary draw of over 500 milliamps will cause the decoder to shut down. Long-term draw over that figure will cause permanent damage. TTS decoders don't have overload protection that some others do.
  20. Tim123

    EBay madness

    How I envy the soldering skills of the owner who did this (unless he had a specialist DCC installer do it) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203453416466?hash=item2f5ec4c412:g:7rEAAOSw0Fhgn-2v
  21. TrustFord, previously Dagenham Motors and Polar Motors, owned by Ford Retail.
  22. Tim123

    EBay madness

    It's more on sync with the speed of the wheels than a TTS decoder!!!
  23. Tim123

    EBay madness

    Actually the model I had in the very early 70s had synchrosmoke. I left it running when a friend came round and I went outside to play. When I came back indoors my mum and dad weren't best pleased. The whole chimney had melted away, along with the firebox where the motor had got slightly too warm.
  24. Tim123

    EBay madness

    Anyone spotted this item? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133679968387?hash=item1f1ff27083:g:8w0AAOSwquxgPWqc In apple blue livery??? And in "good condition without any faults" apart from the 6 faults that he's noted
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