Jeepy

Hello Tony, That's ok, never mind, thank you anyway! Best wishes, Jim.

Good afternoon Tony, I am wondering if the L1 you breifly mention in your general list of locomotives that will be coming up for sale at some point might be the Maunsell 4-4-0 type please? I don't mean to pester you as i know you're busy! Thank you, Best wishes, Jim.

Having said that it doesn't seem to affect the running, she runs beautifully! Best wishes, Jim

Now you've mentioned it i have just been observing mine on the test track and the centre tender wheels are only 'touching down' on the railhead occasionally while running and none of the tender wheelsets spin freely by hand, they seem to be sprung with a bias to one side so may be rubbing on the brake rigging or perhaps the pick ups? Not sure at the moment but the centre wheels do seem to be riding higher than the others............. Best wishes, Jim

Just to add, i did magnetise my screwdrivers to make grappling with tbe retaining plate screws easier by leaving them in the magnetic bowl and i did try doing the same with the nut spinner at the time but it's not magnetically (Is there such a word?) compatible, so i did it the hard way with tweezers etc but thank you for the tip! I'll know next time! Lol! Best wishes, Jim.

Good call! Thank you! I'll bear that in mind...... Why didn't i think of that!?! So simple! Lol! Best wishes Jim.

My early BR lined Black one arrived the other day, the obligatory tender buffer loose in the package and the cab roof fell off! Also the tender brake rigging was making a bid for freedom when i lifted it out! Lol! All easily sorted though, she ran beautifully on the rolling road and i do think it's a lovely model overall, the cab detail is fantastic! I changed the leading driving wheels for the ones without traction tyres but i have yet to try my birdcage 3-set behind it on a layout, that job was really fiddly, mainly trying to get the connecting rod screws back in, i kept dropping them down inside the loco body! You have to start screwing them in as soon as you offer them to the hole through the connecting rod and the wheel because the thread starts right at the beginning of the hole, you can't sit the screw in the hole first then get the 'spanner' on it, it's a 3 handed job! Lol! Best wishes, Jim.

31488 was at Allhallows with 2 pull-push sets in August 1951, i may attempt to re-number mine when I feel brave enough! Best wishes, Jim.

I think they're doing rather well under the circumstances, just calmly getting on with it the best they can i expect, Best wishes, Jim.

Money taken for my early BR lined Black early emblem D yesterday, also got an email from Rails saying it's been dispatched, happy days! Best wishes, Jim.

Ahh! Another experiment to play with..... I get the feeling that may require a bit more care but well worth trying with the scrap material first if i can aquire some 100 degree solder, some fun experiments coming up! Thank you! Best wishes, Jim.

Ahh! That makes sense! Thanks ever so much Frank, when i next get a chance i will experiment with some scraps of brass and whitemetal using the method you mention, i use flux cored 60/40 for electrical but i do possess a packet of 145 degree solder and a packet of 188 degree solder, i shall try with the 145 to start with and see how i get on, I just didn't want to perhaps ruin the kits experimenting and end up with a blob of whitemetal that used to be a suspension component or something! I do really enjoy 'playing' with soldering though, thanks again! Best wishes, Jim.

I hasten to add that use Rosin flux mostly or Hobby Holidays 'no clean' flux for electrical work, i also possess some 9% phosphorus acid flux but have never used it! Thank you, Best wishes, Jim.

Hello everyone, I wonder, may i ask a question with reference to soldering technique please? I consider myself fairly proficient at soldering although I'm certainly not an expert, i can successfully solder layout wiring, brass etch, nickel silver and whitemetal but as seperate entities, for example, whitemetal bus kits, brass etch and nickel silver for experimenting with signals, and layout wiring, all of which i enjoy doing, i have a cheap seperate temperature controlled soldering station for whitemetal and only use it for that purpose as i have set the knob exactly where i need it for 70 degree solder! I have a more powerful soldering station for brass and nickel silver and a portable 25w Antex for electrical work, however, i have never tried soldering whitemetal to brass etch before, i have a couple of Roxey Mouldings coach kits that i would like to build which consist of both materials. Will 70 degree solder suffice or will that not enable the whitemetal to 'stick' to the brass please? Thank you, in anticipation, Jim.

Hello, I went in via the EMGS website, all worked fine..... Thank you to everyone involved, I'm really enjoying dropping in through the day in between woodworking in the shed! I think I've fallen in love with Drighlington & Adwalton, what a smashing layout! Also fascinated by the workings of Buckingham, thank you Tony, Best wishes, Jim.