SandHutton

I read that there is a forthcoming conversion set for these in a description from this years model making competition. I am not sure when they might be available, so in the meantime, yes you will need to turnthe Dapol wheels down.

I can confirm that the latest dcc Dapol 73s have unchanged wheels, still supporting wiper pickup.

So one thing I have found with all of the engines I have looked and the one i bought is that the chassis isn't square and the axles/wheels run at a slight angle to the chassis. The one I bought ran fine and I only noticed after I took it apart for a 2mm conversion. I tried to find another that was square and have been unable to as of yet. I think with n gauge clearances and geared drive they probably get away with it. It can be fixed but its slightly annoying that it has to be done. Something they should fix in the next batch.

Hi Jerry, I enjoyed your write up in MRJ about the o class. It's provides a straightforward approach to tackle the worsley works c2x I have in my gloat box. If I could ask, how do you find the low speed running with the 30:1 gearbox?

I do wonder what happened with the preservation of 313121 and why did that fall through? Did the NRM simply not want it as they didn't have the space / funds etc? Although I do hope 313201 is preserved I am certainly sympathetic to the view that they can't all be saved - and indeed often aren't if and when the money runs out. EMU preservation is clearly very difficult as they require large amounts of storage space and cannot be run on their own power on a heritage line which limits their appeal. 313201 would have to remain on the mainline to be viable with support from those in the industry or be bought by someone with access to a large storage space to keep it indefinitely as a museum piece.

Hi Michael - Guy from 2mm, hope you're well. I have bought one and had it tested at gaugemaster before hand and it seemed fine on there relatively tight circuit (probably R2?). There is no mention of radius restrictions on the service sheet so I would assume its designed to cope with R1.

Well just received the good news that 313201 is to be preserved, see the link below for details on how to help with the monthly storage at Eastleigh http://www.400series.co.uk/?page_id=413

Well its good news that a 313 set is going to be preserved even if it is currently yellow. I assume it was felt easier to re-instate the original seating and reverse the other modifications than to re-install all of the seating and dual voltage equipment. It will surely also be a fair while until 313121 is retired surely around 10 or so years ?

Sad to see them scrapped but had to happen eventually, though they've done sterling service. I think ill contact southern and the nrm and see whats happening with regards to preservation. But if not its good to see one of the br PEPs (315s) being saved by what looks to be a well organised group. Maybe it will even run under battery power in the future.

Originally, I understood that 313 201 the first member of the class was to enter preservation at the NRM when the class is withdrawn from the Southern in a couple of months. I have now heard conflicting reports - one that another example is going to be preserved in its place and another that they are all going to be scrapped. Does anybody with their ear close to the grapevine be able to shed some light on the situation. I would hate to see them all scrapped. As an integral part of my daily commute I will miss their unique style and also their massive cycle storage area. Cheers Guy

I believe the valve gear produced by Nigel Hunt for the Fairburn tank conversion can probably be used for your 4mt conversion. Thats what I am doing for my own 4mt 2-6-0

Hi Nigel, Just my own 2cents. I wouldn't have thought there would be much call for a form tool as much of the work Gordon did on my own stock converting n to 2mm fs was reducing the flange width of the wheel and increasing the back to back. Where possible he also reduced the wheel width from the front for diesel disk wheels. Its not really necessary to alter the profile of the running tread to flange area as in most cases they are fine enough as they are. Using a form tool is also more complex than simple facing work as the wheel has to be held more securely - normally on a mandrel and you would cut away the nickle silver coating. Thinking about the more recent farish steam releases which have reverted back to the wiper pickup - could these be best tackled with 3d printed wheel centres on association rims as Julia Adams and others have done - you could provide it as a kit. Julias experiments I think used ESun hard tough resin which required heat curing after normal printing / curing. It results in a much tougher wheel centre. Glue 2FS rims to 3d printed centre Glue Crankpins to wheels Remove old wheels from axles Fix left wheel to axle and allow to cure (loctite 603?) Use a quartering jig to set the quartering and back to back with the right wheel installed. With all of the above its important obviously that you can attain the co-centricity and trueness of the wheel running without additional processing as has been achieved with the sintered metal wheels we now use Guy

Noticed that the wheel rims are much thicker than before and definitely are look worse than the fine wheels on previous releases. Lets hope they update the chassis at some point

Interesting point, I had quite forgotten that the 4k resolution doesn't equate to twice the definition although still an improvement. I think the most detailed items I am likely to print are 2mm bogie side frames and although I will likely have to avoid putting rivets on the print, the outcome should be pretty acceptable. Thanks for all your advice guys Guy

Recommendations for 3D Resin Printer So I have come to the point of purchase, I principally want the resin printer for 2mm FS work and some 4mm. in 2mm and 4mm, the most challenging item I want to print is 2mm wheel centres and 2mm rolling stock. ideally I want the best resolution and accuracy I can afford which takes precedence over the build area. My short list is; Sonic mini 4k - heard disappointing reviews about build quality and z axis wobble but impressed with some of the results notably from missy of 2mm fame Anycubic Photon Mono SE - dual rail and built like a tank with good deals available - just not 4k Anycubic Photon Mono 4k - not many reviews on this printer as its quite new. Results seems similar to sonic mini 4k Elegoo Mars 3 - seems good but not thrilled about the printer being tied to chitubox or wait for Phozen sonic mini 8k Anycubic Photon Ultra I will be buying a wash and cure station to suit. I am happy to tinker but obviously there is a point at which you should just buy a better machine Thanks, Its probably the most asked question on 3D printing boards. Guy