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StanierBlack5

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  1. Many thanks John, yet another diagram to add to my collection - most helpful. (Now back in Yorkshire after spending 42 years living in NSW, thought I'd just mention that!) Cheers, Roger
  2. Hi David, thanks for your reply. After reading your explanation I am now wiser than before - with regards to Single Pole switches, would it be better if I purchased Double Pole switches and if so, how should they be wired? Many thanks in advance, Roger
  3. Following on from my previous post, would these switches be OK? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARTGEAR-Universal-Rocker-Toggle-Switch/dp/B07GDCNXKP/ref=pd_vtp_60_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07GDCNXKP&pd_rd_r=111e3b0b-8587-4759-a9b3-f66876cce786&pd_rd_w=Q2cBu&pd_rd_wg=kA33J&pf_rd_p=78dd719b-ab64-47e6-8dc1-945f566666b3&pf_rd_r=KZYAEG58TXRW7CX4P43R&psc=1&refRID=KZYAEG58TXRW7CX4P43R These are rated 240V AC but unless I've read this wrong, the track voltage is approx 15V DC ..... does this make a difference? Thanks in advance, Roger
  4. Thanks again for your input. Mike, yes you're reading the blurb correctly, although more costly than using auto rear light bulbs I think the CP6 looks better. Thanks John for more diagrams for my collection, I've attached my diagram although not too professionally drawn as my printer/scanner stopped working last week but it shows what I now have in mind for my layout. Cheers, Roger
  5. As always, thanks for your input. This is where I am right now; at the Festival of Railway Modelling held at the Doncaster Racecourse a couple of weekends ago, I spoke to Digitrains (Lincoln) where I purchased a CP6 Circuit Protector - not a circuit breaker. I intend incorporating this (together with the appropriate switches) into the diagram 2B supplied by 'Johns ks' and am wondering what type of On/Off switches to use. Many thanks in advance. Roger
  6. I rather like the look of 'John ks' submission, using the diagram '2b' ... "Fault finding is easiest, just turn off switches until the fault goes away." My question is a simple one, what kind of switch do I require and does this one fit the bill: Single Pole Toggle Flick Switch 15A 250V AC ? Please excuse my ignorance but it is the very reason why I joined the forum, to obtain expert advice and help. Many thanks, Roger
  7. Many thanks for all your replies and advice, I now have a lot more to think about before I go any further. Thanks also to the internet and top forums like this one now that the digital age is truely with us, back in the day with DC, I'm sure that building a layout was not as complicated for beginners like me. Than you all and Cheers, Roger
  8. Hi bigP, Yes, in the diagram District #1 would be the top line and District #2 would be the bottom one. Yes, I have one command centre (NCE Power cab) and no power booster. Thanks for the digital Cobalt info and it now looks like it's going to cost heaps for 24 points! bigP, many thanks for your input. Roger
  9. Thank you both for your quick replies. Talltim, trying to keep my question simple is the reason for mentioning two separate ovals, my layout will have two main lines (one up and one down), two goods lines (up and down) plus a six road carriage sidings and a smaller five road wagon sidings, all together I'll be using 28 sets of points at this point in time! Later I will be adding a turntable, shed and coaling plant etc., the layout base is 9' x 8'. Joseph, I too am a beginner and am loving building my layout which at the moment has stalled as I am awaiting stock of the iP Cobalt Digital point motors coming in to stock, meanwhile I'm still mentally building it and getting help from this very good forum. Thanks again fellas!
  10. The more that I'm learning about building my first layout, the more confused I become, I would really appreciate your guidance with regards to the following: Theoretically, if I had two oval tracks one inside the other, each having their own separate bus wire and connected together via two sets of electrofrog points (to enable a loco to change from one track to the other), to keep the two districts separate would I need to use nylon insulating rail joiners between the two sets of points? I forgot to mention that my layout will be DCC. Please see the attachment and many thanks in advance. Roger
  11. Thanks 'Pete the Elaner' - your advice has been taken on board!
  12. Many thanks for your swift answers, very much appreciated! I forgot to mention I intend using Cobalt iP point motors, so does that alter the situation? Please excuse my lack of electrical knowledge as I am learning as I go. Once again, many thanks.
  13. Hello Everyone, When two sets of points join together frog to frog (to cross from one line to another), do both frogs stay insulated - please take a look at the attachment. Thanks in advance, Roger
  14. Thank you all for taking the time to reply with good advice. Robert, as my layout is already fixed to the baseboard (using screws instead of track pins), I have used a 'Sharpie" to draw around the tracks with the next move being the removal of the track to install a cork track bed onto the base, then to replace the track after soldering a dropper for each length of rail and drilling the appropriate holes in the baseboard. I'm feeling that I've dropped myself in the deep end as opposed to starting small but I'm up for a challenge and at this point in time, I've certainly got one! Once again, thanks for your help. Roger
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