bkk-bkk

Damo Here it is. That's all the paperwork there was in the box when I bought a new one years ago. Incidentally, ViTrains locos were made in Italy and were originally commissioned and imported by The Hobby Company. But I believe that The Hobby Company no longer exists and, therefore, it is very difficult to find spares. I currently have a 37371 in bits on the workbench following an "accident". If you get stuck with any repairs I may be able to help with advice (but no spare parts!). Regards bkk-bkk instructions 37371 vi-trains v2048 mainline locomotive (maintenance, decoder installation, spare parts).pdf

Hello John This is fantastic. Thank you for taking the trouble to make the circuit diagram. I’ve abandoned the idea of battery operation and am now fully into AC fault-finding mode (until the magic smoke appears). I have taken some more photos: Figure 2.1 shows a side view of the thermal overload showing that it is actually open. How is this reset? Figure 2.2 shows a close up of R4, R5, R6 They are very difficult to see against the background of the dark parts of the PCB. They are very thin so I have used light from the side to try and highlight them but my phone is not up to the job and I don’t have a decent camera. I have viewed them through a strong magnifying glass and they each look like a smear of congealed grease. There’s no visible markings and all three look the same. The spaces between them look smooth just like the rest of the dark parts of the PCB. THIS IS WHERE REALITY KICKS IN AND I REALISE THAT THESE THREE RESISTORS APPEAR TO HAVE BURNT OUT OR MELTED. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE Y LOOKED LIKE BEFORE THE PROBLEM APPEARED. I’ve included answers to your remaining points but I fear that rectifying this problem will be outside my capabilities. So please skip to the final paragraph if required. Figure 2.2 also shows the two items that you circled in red. The circled item below and to the left of Q4 is a mystery. It is also shown in Figure 2.3 in the best close-up that I could get. There is nothing in that location on the other side of the board. Figure 2.4 close up of output jack The second circled item, between R4 and the yellow component (234), is connected to the top left of the output jack. Figures 2.5 & 2.6 show a close up of the undersides of Q1 and Q2 When the controller is assembled Q1 and Q2 are bolted to the aluminium plate with a thin piece of isolating material between the component and the plate. Incidentally, I had to split the nut of the screw holding Q2 as I couldn’t get access to the head to stop it rotating. I will replace it with a BA bolt and nut during reassembly so that I can insert a thin piece of metal into the slot in the head of the bolt to prevent rotation. Bearing in mind that my objective with DC operation is a brief check of the basics of each loco (motion and lights) before moving on to DCC for final operational checks: 1. Is it feasible to continue with the original plan and convert the faulty controller for DC battery operation? if so what size potentiometer should I use if a change is required? and what modifications should I make to the PCB? 2. I have a car battery charger (Figure 2.7) which has a built-in controller. Could I use that to supply DC direct to the track or rolling road? Best regards Brian Gledhill (bkk-bkk) PS. Only figures 2.1, 2.2 and 2.7 uploaded (10 Mb limit exceeded). Figures 2.3, 24. 2.5 and 2.6 to follow if required.

Hello John Thanks again for your help. I've progressed beyond fault-finding mainly because I don't really have the necessary skills and I probably would have to buy replacement parts from overseas where postage costs would be prohibitive. I’ve kicked off my alternative plan and bought a 12V battery. Next job is to modify the controller for 12V DC input. I have disassembled the controller into four major parts and photos are enclosed of the result. Figures 1 shows the 4 major components laid out in the order top to bottom and Fig 2 shows the same items turned over. Figure 3 is a PDF and shows both sides of the PCB alongside each other. Orientation can be taken from components D1 and D2 which are identified on both sides of the board. Figure 4 is just for interest and shows ECB Q1 and Q2 in more detail. The only items that I will need to use in the circuitry are the input jack, potentiometer, direction switch, and output jack. However I will need to retain the PCB and the three other major components (both halves of the case plus the aluminium plate) so that I can reassemble it for use. My plan is to: 1. reconnect the three wires of the potentiometer to the PCB 2. use new wiring soldered to the terminals of the existing components (input jack, direction switch and output jack) on the PCB to create the circuit 3. figure out which components on the PCB (capacitors, diodes, etc) will be redundant and whether to bypass them somehow or just remove them to prevent hazards 4. use the wire from the redundant transformer to connect the 12V battery to input jack 1. (I'm guessing the soldered joint nearest the red LED is positive and the other one is negative.) 5. use the existing wire to the track plugged into outlet jack 2 for operation I would appreciate any guidance that you can offer on items 2, 3, 4 above. Best regards Brian (bkk-bkk) figure 3 dc controller pcb (top and underside).pdf

Hello again everyone Many thanks for your continuing input. This is the first time that I have used any forum where the conversation has continued beyond the first question and reply. First a summary of the current situation. This is followed below by answers to specific questions and suggestions. First the reason for the exercise. I have about 25 OO gauge diesel locos, all periods from BR blue through to sectorisation and privatisation. They have all been in storage for about 10-11 years and some of them need minor repairs. They are all fitted with DCC decoders, including 4 with sound, and were always intended to be operated on DCC. Due to a fragmented lifestyle over the last 15 years caused by 5 house moves and 2 major illnesses I have never been able to complete a layout successfully apart form the current Peco Starter set oval with 2 sidings. The reason for using DC to get things moving is because I am not sure of the status of most of the locos as they have been in storage for so long, so DC is a starting point to ensure things are mechanically and electrically fit for purpose without putting decoders and sound systems at risk. Once DC is satisfactory and repairs are complete, then I will move on to DCC as a final check for each loco. After that they will be listed for sale on eBay with a statement that they work correctly and are DCC ready or DCC fitted as appropriate (ie, the same status as when I bought them new) so that buyers can be confident in what they are paying for. Regarding running a DC loco from the DCC controller. I tried it today for about 20 seconds and the loco definitely didn’t like it. So I have discontinued doing that. The idea of using a 12V rechargeable battery is just that, an idea at the moment. First I will need to check on prices when I go shopping next week. If cost isn’t a problem I will try and modify the defunct Bachmann DC controller by removing or bypassing the rectifier, then if that’s successful, back to the shop and buy the battery and recharger. The plan is to use the battery as the DC power source and recharge it as necessary. Finally, I have bit the bullet and ordered a new Bachmann DC controller on eBay which was listed at a very reasonable price with free delivery from Florida to Thailand. (Breaking news the guy has emailed to cancel as I didn’t request postage costs despite the fact that he promoted free international postage in 2 different places on his listing.) Footnote, railway modelling in Thailand seems to be just me. Although there must be more I haven’t come across others and I haven’t heard of any sort of community organisation. However there is a shop (Zug Haus) in Bangkok which JimFin mentioned earlier in this thread. Their website looks a bit out-of-date 2014 seems to be the last update. I have sent them an email anyway requesting assistance. Will report on the outcome later. Another footnote, the station in Hua Hin is quite attractive but will soon be bypassed I believe as a “high speed” line is being built from Bangkok to somewhere south of here (Surat Thani?). Much of the local groundwork appears to be complete and some of the catenary supports are in place but no sign of any track yet. Apologies for being so long-winded but I think and plan and do all at the same time and usually not in the correct order. All the best Brian (bkk-bkk)

Many thanks for all your helpful suggestions which I read with interest and tried in the latest fault finding exercise. I’ve come to the conclusion that it is the DC controller that is at fault, so I have binned it. However, I do need a replacement DC controller but I don’t want to spend too much and air freight charges are often more than the cost of the item being bought. Low and behold, the DCC controller has a DC function (https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/images/E-Z_Command_instructions.pdf bottom of page 6). I tried it today and it works but I think it is only a temporary solution. So I will use that when needed instead of buying a new DC controller. Another interesting point was the suggestion to use a 9V battery to check that the locos were operational. Obvious when you think about it but in the heat of the moment these ideas tend to get overlooked. So I bought a 9V battery today and was pleasantly surprised when the Hornby class 08 with decoder blank ran perfectly on the track with the battery connected. Likewise with the Hornby class 56 on my rolling road. While I was in the hardware store buying the battery I noticed that they also had 12V rechargeable batteries. These were much larger than the 9V battery, probably about 10x10x15 cm. I will check next time on prices and method of recharging. But I wondered if these would be a good cheaper substitute for the DC controller as I could salvage bits from it and use them for speed and direction control. Any suggestions on this last idea? Many thanks again. Brian (bkk-bkk)

I have a problem where DC locos will not run whereas DCC locos run well on the same track. The track layout is a small Peco Setrack Starter Pack oval with two turnouts and two short sidings. The track is clean and in good condition. It was working fine in DC until recently. No alterations have been made since then, except that I have started to use it for DCC operation (but not at the same time as DC). DC Electrical Arrangements and Operation A Bachmann mains plug in transformer supplies 16V AC to a basic Bachmann rectifier/controller. This, in turn, supplies variable DC to the track via a Bachmann supplied lead with its terminals soldered to the underside of the rails. The position of these terminals in the main oval is such that power is supplied to the sidings when the turnouts are manually switched to the appropriate position. With no locos on the track, power available measured between the rails at any point is in the range 0-25 VDC depending on the position of the basic controller and the direction switch. With a single loco on the track there is no voltage measured between the rails and no response from the loco regardless of the position of the controller. This last operation was carried out on two occasions with a Hornby class 08 diesel loco, and a Hornby Class 56. Both locos had their 8 pin decoders removed and replaced by 8 pin decoder blanks. DCC Electrical Arrangements and Operation The DCC set-up is exactly the same as DC except that the basic Bachmann rectifier/controller is removed and replaced by a Bachmann E-Z Command Control Centre. For simplicity, there is no booster incorporated in this set-up. The Hornby class 08 diesel loco and the Hornby Class 56 loco were fitted with decoders and worked perfectly. A Hornby class 08 diesel loco with sound also worked perfectly. All three locos were on the track at the same time. Conclusion I’m baffled. I have checked the track, equipment and electrical connections thoroughly but I cannot see a logical answer. The problem is the same when I try the locos on a single length of Peco Flex Track and on a rolling road. All help and suggestions would be much appreciated.

Does anyone have a list of specialist spares dealers? I remember East Kent Models used to specialise in Hornby spares, but I believe they have closed down. Examples of what I'm currently looking for are modern era OO gauge wagon bogie frames (Bachmann, Hornby, Dapol, Heljan). Also Bachmann Class 70 bogie frames, Vi-Trains class 37 & 47 pick-ups, Bachmann IFA bogie centralising springs, etc, etc. Any help will be much appreciated. My apologies to all if this already exists and I have managed to miss it. Regards Brian

Hello 34C You are spot on with the simplicity and economy. And such a simple suggestion. I'll keep this idea in mind for any of the wagons that I can't easily get modified. One of my concerns is not getting a bad reputation as an eBay seller. People do buy without reading the small print and as I mentioned before returns and recriminations could be deadly. I did read some of the posts about eBay on this Forum yesterday and it does seem that there are quite a few idiots around. Many thanks for your suggestion. Brian Gledhill

Hi everyone, I need some replacement bogie frames and 2-axle running gear (without axels and wheels) for about 70 OO Gauge modern era Bachmann, Dapol and Hornby wagons (see attachment). Can anyone suggest where they can be sourced from? The reason I need all these parts is that half a lifetime ago I had grand ideas of building a room size layout using Peco finescale track with medium radius spiral easement curves. Rolling stock would be fitted with Kadee couplings suitable for the medium radius curves. Lots of miscellaneous rolling stock was bought and converted to Kadee. The wagon conversions consisted either replacing the exiting NEM mounted tension lock couplings with a suitable Kadee where this would provide the correct coupling height and spacing between wagons. The rest were converted by removing the NEM coupling pockets and mountings on the bogies or running gear and fixing the Kadees behind the buffer beam mounted on pieces of polystyrene of a suitable thickness to achieve the correct height. All this held in place with super glue. So that leaves two problems for this batch (1) obtaining replacement bogies or running gear and (2) removing the remaining styrene if it causes any obstructions to operation of the bogies or running gear. Naturally I need to do (1) first as, otherwise, (2) won’t be necessary. Anyway, back to the story. Most of the baseboards were built and installed, The track was about to be laid when disaster struck. After dealing with two serious illnesses, three house moves and advancing age I no longer have the ability to start building baseboards again. I have built a small lightweight baseboard complete with a Peco Setrack starter set. This is being used to check the 25 locos that are sitting waiting to be sold. Most of these didn't get the butcher's axe and retain their original couplings, they just need to be dusted off, lubricated and checked for function and operation (and my own amusement before I sell them.) Alternatively, I would be willing to sell the Kadee fitted wagons individually without further modification. But where to advertise them? The RM Web for sale section seems quite small for this quantity of stock. eBay is the obvious answer and I have already sold several wagons which have been retro-fitted with their original tension lock couplings. However, selling wagons on eBay with Kadee couplings suitable for medium radius curves would be a difficult undertaking as many buyers could easily make successful bids and then be disappointed that they had bought unsuitable wagons because they hadn't read the warnings about dangerous curves ahead. This could lead to expensive returns and recrimination which could affect my current good standing as a seller on eBay. In summary, it seems that I have four choices: Source replacement bogies and running gear. Obtain suitable 3d printing files and get the bits printed. Sell the wagons as is. Keep them and run them on the Setrack starter set (of course this wouldn’t work but I could dream about it). Apologies for being so long-winded. Finally, any help or suggestions will be very welcome. Brian Gledhill (bkk-bkk) kd work list (mr web).docx