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niteshadex

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  1. That’s a shame, I really wish when a company goes out of business that they would pass on or sell their moulds/etches to another company. The GWR tool vans aren’t available anywhere else, along with many other of their kits. Same thing happened with ABS and David Geen
  2. Is falcon brassworks still in business ? I need a few GWR 4 and 6 wheel tool vans. The website looks for the most part operating, but didn’t get an reply when I emailed them…
  3. I never had any luck with low-melt solder. When I build whitemetal kits, I will usually use solder to tack parts together, then finish off with super glue
  4. In case anyone is interested, I sort of fixed the situation and ended with a satisfactory result... I tweaked the tin and lead ratios, and added a little bismuth. The ratio I ended with is 55% tin, 42% lead, 3% bismuth. The metal is a rich silvery white that really picks up the tiny details.
  5. So I’ve been casting my own scenic items / accessories, I make my own moulds with Mold Max 60. The metal alloy that I’ve been casting with is pewter, being 97% tin + 3% bismuth. This alloy does not have the white metal look and feel to it, it’s much shinier. So I had an XRF test done on a piece of white metal from a Wizard Models wagon kit (my favorite quality white metal) to see what exactly it’s made of, the results show 66.7% lead + 33.3% tin. I was excited to see how basic the alloy was. It’s basically 2 parts lead to 1 part tin. I have plenty of lead fishing sinkers. I melted them down, and mixed 2 pounds of them with 1 pound of tin. After pouring the mixed alloy into the moulds, the end result is not what I expected. It still doesn’t have that white metal look and feel to it. It’s more of a shiny grey than a matte white. Am i doing something wrong? Is there more to alloying than simply mixing the correct ratios of elements together in a furnace?
  6. Ok so I found a supplier. There are 3 types available... 98% tin, 1.5% bismuth, 0.5% copper 92% tin, 8% antimony 92% tin, 7.75% antimony, 0.25% copper Im thinking I should go with the first one
  7. I want to cast some scenic items and platform accessories. A friend of mine made the rubber molds for me but I have a question about the metal itself. I have a 1 lb. ingot of what I thought was white metal, but after casting the items this metal looks way too shiny to be white metal, and it didn’t pick up the tiny details as well as the scrap white metal pieces from various oo scale kits that I used the first time, although the ingot did melt at the same low temperature. After my buddy examined it, he told me that the ingot I have was “pewter”. So to my question. Can someone tell me either a good source for actual white metal, or the element composition ratios ? P.S. my friend doesn’t know. While he is skilled in making rubber molds, he doesn’t work with white metal.
  8. Mainly Trains fret #MT-230 is an excellent item. Normally when I build plastic kits I cut off the w-irons and use sprung or rocking ones, but for this kit I felt like just leaving the original ones. This is Parkside kit PC42. Added full LMS clasp brakes and other cast bits from 51L. Transfers are modelmaster. I think these vans were all bauxite, but looks good in maroon. 1 little issue I had, I burnt one of the w-irons with the soldering iron, as you can see in the photo.
  9. I'm sorry about asking so many underframe-questions these last few weeks, but I am a total underframe geek, with a little OCD. But to my question, does anyone have any clear photographs (the real thing or models),or clear diagrams, of the underframes w/ all the pipework for the following wagons... SR/BR PMV/CCT, LNER Extra long CCT, GWR Mink G, GWR Mink D, GWR Bloater. I have plenty of unopened kits laying around of these wagons but I don't want to start the builds until I know I have all the little bits needed so I can begin soldering once i've completed the body and floor. This will be my last underframe post, I have tons of information on a wide variety of underframes. I've been going through ink cartridges like crazy. Thanks P.S. I did find one photo here on RMWEB of a SR CCT underframe, but I'll take everything I can get.
  10. Does anyone know of any issues with the Peco item #SL-113 code 75 to 100 transition track? My layout is in code 100 but I’m going to have to use code 75 on certain areas for a number of reasons, one being that they don’t make the Peco double-slip in electrofrog code 100, only code 75. I want to know if anyone has has any issues with the SL-113 transition track. Thanks
  11. Just an update, i finally finished the kit, my first brass. I have no idea how the livery looked so I got a little creative with it. I'm awaiting the Mainly Trains brake detail fret. Also one of the brake shoes snapped off and fell into my carpet.
  12. Ok after doing more research I found that Masokits produces etches for this. Unfortunately I am living overseas in the USA for the next few years and in their catalog it looks like they do not take paypal or other electronic payments. In the screenshot below I circled the part number (2.01). If anyone is able to get their hands on 2 or 3 of these (2 in 10' WB and 1 in 9' WB, or 1 each), I would be willing to pay you interest on them on top of the original price plus delivery
  13. I am having trouble finding the parts (or a complete kit) of the SR clasp brake under frame (4mm), I've attached some photos. Anyone know of any sellers for the correct parts, plastic, brass, or whitemetal will do. Also does anyone have a diagram of this rigging just in case I have to make it from scratch? Thanks
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