niteshadex

I see your store is back online. Order will be placed in the next 2 days thanks

I’m just wondering if a kit for this van exists. Ratio should have developed it, seems like it would have went nicely with their standard GWR van and mogo van. The old Bachmann/Dapol/Mainline version is no good, it’s 18’ over headstocks (too long) and too wide. I tried putting the van body on an etched underframe and it looked bad

Much appreciated. When everything’s back up and running I’ll place order. I’m still undecided about the sheet of subframes, I don’t know if I can afford to spend all that right now but I will let you know. As for the GCR axleboxes I will try to place an order on shapeways.

Ok I needed a Highland railway mineral wagon (the one with the cupboard doors). Also needed a pack of these GCR oil axlebox springs (photo attached). I wanted to know if you make GNR oil axlebox springs and SECR oil axlebox springs (the ones meant for the Cambrian wagon kits) Do you have a catalog of all the axleboxes you sell? Thanks

Roger that. Ill keep a look out til it’s back up

Hey sorry I just saw this post, I haven’t logged in in a while . Also the Mousa models website seems to be down for quite a while now (there are a couple wagon kits i was interested in purchasing as well). I will email you ASAP

The Mousa models website has been down for a while and don’t know how to contact them. This subframe used to come included with most of their 9’wb LNWR wagon kits, but recently they stopped and the kits now come with a printed underframe. Does anyone know the email address of whoever runs that store? I am in need of more of these subframes. Here is a picture

That’s a shame, I really wish when a company goes out of business that they would pass on or sell their moulds/etches to another company. The GWR tool vans aren’t available anywhere else, along with many other of their kits. Same thing happened with ABS and David Geen

Is falcon brassworks still in business ? I need a few GWR 4 and 6 wheel tool vans. The website looks for the most part operating, but didn’t get an reply when I emailed them…

I never had any luck with low-melt solder. When I build whitemetal kits, I will usually use solder to tack parts together, then finish off with super glue

In case anyone is interested, I sort of fixed the situation and ended with a satisfactory result... I tweaked the tin and lead ratios, and added a little bismuth. The ratio I ended with is 55% tin, 42% lead, 3% bismuth. The metal is a rich silvery white that really picks up the tiny details.

So I’ve been casting my own scenic items / accessories, I make my own moulds with Mold Max 60. The metal alloy that I’ve been casting with is pewter, being 97% tin + 3% bismuth. This alloy does not have the white metal look and feel to it, it’s much shinier. So I had an XRF test done on a piece of white metal from a Wizard Models wagon kit (my favorite quality white metal) to see what exactly it’s made of, the results show 66.7% lead + 33.3% tin. I was excited to see how basic the alloy was. It’s basically 2 parts lead to 1 part tin. I have plenty of lead fishing sinkers. I melted them down, and mixed 2 pounds of them with 1 pound of tin. After pouring the mixed alloy into the moulds, the end result is not what I expected. It still doesn’t have that white metal look and feel to it. It’s more of a shiny grey than a matte white. Am i doing something wrong? Is there more to alloying than simply mixing the correct ratios of elements together in a furnace?

Ok so I found a supplier. There are 3 types available... 98% tin, 1.5% bismuth, 0.5% copper 92% tin, 8% antimony 92% tin, 7.75% antimony, 0.25% copper Im thinking I should go with the first one

I want to cast some scenic items and platform accessories. A friend of mine made the rubber molds for me but I have a question about the metal itself. I have a 1 lb. ingot of what I thought was white metal, but after casting the items this metal looks way too shiny to be white metal, and it didn’t pick up the tiny details as well as the scrap white metal pieces from various oo scale kits that I used the first time, although the ingot did melt at the same low temperature. After my buddy examined it, he told me that the ingot I have was “pewter”. So to my question. Can someone tell me either a good source for actual white metal, or the element composition ratios ? P.S. my friend doesn’t know. While he is skilled in making rubber molds, he doesn’t work with white metal.

Mainly Trains fret #MT-230 is an excellent item. Normally when I build plastic kits I cut off the w-irons and use sprung or rocking ones, but for this kit I felt like just leaving the original ones. This is Parkside kit PC42. Added full LMS clasp brakes and other cast bits from 51L. Transfers are modelmaster. I think these vans were all bauxite, but looks good in maroon. 1 little issue I had, I burnt one of the w-irons with the soldering iron, as you can see in the photo.

That would be great Thanks

Its ok

I'm sorry about asking so many underframe-questions these last few weeks, but I am a total underframe geek, with a little OCD. But to my question, does anyone have any clear photographs (the real thing or models),or clear diagrams, of the underframes w/ all the pipework for the following wagons... SR/BR PMV/CCT, LNER Extra long CCT, GWR Mink G, GWR Mink D, GWR Bloater. I have plenty of unopened kits laying around of these wagons but I don't want to start the builds until I know I have all the little bits needed so I can begin soldering once i've completed the body and floor. This will be my last underframe post, I have tons of information on a wide variety of underframes. I've been going through ink cartridges like crazy. Thanks P.S. I did find one photo here on RMWEB of a SR CCT underframe, but I'll take everything I can get.

Does anyone know of any issues with the Peco item #SL-113 code 75 to 100 transition track? My layout is in code 100 but I’m going to have to use code 75 on certain areas for a number of reasons, one being that they don’t make the Peco double-slip in electrofrog code 100, only code 75. I want to know if anyone has has any issues with the SL-113 transition track. Thanks

Just an update, i finally finished the kit, my first brass. I have no idea how the livery looked so I got a little creative with it. I'm awaiting the Mainly Trains brake detail fret. Also one of the brake shoes snapped off and fell into my carpet.

Ok after doing more research I found that Masokits produces etches for this. Unfortunately I am living overseas in the USA for the next few years and in their catalog it looks like they do not take paypal or other electronic payments. In the screenshot below I circled the part number (2.01). If anyone is able to get their hands on 2 or 3 of these (2 in 10' WB and 1 in 9' WB, or 1 each), I would be willing to pay you interest on them on top of the original price plus delivery

I am having trouble finding the parts (or a complete kit) of the SR clasp brake under frame (4mm), I've attached some photos. Anyone know of any sellers for the correct parts, plastic, brass, or whitemetal will do. Also does anyone have a diagram of this rigging just in case I have to make it from scratch? Thanks

Can someone please direct me to a store that sells underframe bits to improve RTR coach underframes and bogies? Particularly brass and cast whitemetal parts. Thanks P.S... in 4mm

I found the instruction sheet for the righthand fret. I'm pretty sure I can compete the dual brake rigging with this fret as well as 0.5mm brass wire for the loops. Thanks for the tip

So I’ve spent a good portion of my Sunday alleviating my OCD by making a clear and complete plan for what I am going to do with the wagons I’ve already built and all future wagons. So here goes... EXISTING WAGONS: LMS D1664 Vans (Cambrian): Replace uframe with Rumney and/or Gibson RCH 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe LMS All-Steel Vent Vans (Cambrian): Replace uframe with Rumney and/or Gibson RCH 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe LMS 8T Fish Vans (Cambrian): Replace uframe with Rumney and/or Gibson RCH 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe SR 8-Plank Opens (Cambrian): Replace uframe with Rumney and/or Gibson RCH 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe SR 5-Plank Opens D1380 (Cambrian): Replace uframe with Rumney and/or Gibson RCH 17’6” x 9’ steel uframe GWR Felix Pole 20T Minerals (Ian Kirk): Replace uframe with Rumney RCH 21’6” x 12’ lift link steel uframe GWR Mink C Vans (Ian Kirk): Replace uframe with Rumney RCH 21’6” x 12’ lift link steel uframe BR 13T High Fits (Parkside Old Version): Replace uframe with Rumney BR 17’6” x 10’ Morton brake steel uframe BR 13T China Clayhoods (Ratio): Replace uframe with Rumney BR 16’ x 9’ Morton brake steel uframe Various others I may change as well RTR STOCK UFRAME REPLACEMENTS: Bachmann and Oxford 5/7/8 Plank RCH Opens: Replace uframe with Brassmasters PO uframe range (designed specifically for RTR stock) Bachmann 14T Tank Wagons: Replace uframe with Rumney RCH 17’6” x 10’ independent brake steel uframe PLASTIC UFRAMES THAT I WILL KEEP, BUT ENHANCE WITH DETAILING FRETS: Red Panda uframe Chivers (All) Ratio GWR/RCH 17’6” x 10’ uframe Ratio LNWR 16’ x 9’ uframes Parkside (All except old discontinued ones) Slaters (All) Cambrian SECR + LBSC and CAM RYS uframes FUTURE KITS: If a brass variant exists, will most likely go with brass .......so this is my plan for my major rolling stock overhaul. I’m not only doing this because of my OCD. My favorite aspect of this hobby is creating rolling stock to my liking, and I cannot fit any more on my layout, so why not improve what I have? Also I would like to keep practicing with the soldering iron until it becomes second nature.