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Ian Lilley

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Everything posted by Ian Lilley

  1. Cheapest shipping £7.67 according to website(just purchased one) Ian Lilley
  2. Many thanks for the information Jim, pretty much what I expected but I thought it advisable to get the answers direct from the dentists mouth!Unfortunately the motor is fixed in the chassis but I'm sure I can clean any residue with due care, Ian
  3. Hi,Jim,I've noted your use of tooth paste to polish a geartrain and wondered (a)will any toothpaste work (the one I use on my teeth is a gel and does'nt appear to be particularly abrasive)(b)how much-presumably just a small dab(c) how long do you run it for(d)How do you remove it afterwards-I would be reluctant to use water so close to the motor.Keep up the great modelling ! Ian Lilley
  4. Presumably all filmed by a2mmFS drone? Ian
  5. Yes,that was my initial thought but that would preclude using the bolsters and washers supplied as part of the kit since opening out the holes in them would render them too fragile-currently digging through my scrap box to see if any left-overs from previous constructions will provide a solution(apologies for opening a new topic for this-I had intended posting it in the 2mm products topic but my fingers deceived me) Thanks,Ian
  6. I am just starting to assemble some of new Dean bogies.Previous Association bogies I have made have had a pivot hole which took a 10BA bolt,but the Dean's pivot hole seems smaller(possibly 12BA?)Can anyone please advise so I can obtain the correct bolts?Thanks in advance, Ian Lilley
  7. Thank you Ian,now you mention it I seem to remember reading somewhere, several years ago, that Richard had produced Dean bogie etches.Looking forward to watching your progress which should give me guidance in my own efforts, Many thanks,Ian Lilley
  8. Great work as usual,Ian.I am plucking up courage to get a couple of Worsley Works D37's and a C15 to form a short rake.Some months ago John Aldrick showed me photos of some 10' Dean Bogies he had made using modified Association Pullman bogies which gave a very good representation and I am intending to do the same,but wondered what you intended using? Ian Lilley
  9. Unfortunately,I have already dismantled the chassis and scrapped the offending articles(and to be honest I wounld'nt know how to upload photos) Thanks for your suggestion regarding the association gear box-I do have one in the gloat box and will see how it fits when the new chassis is built, Ian
  10. Thanks Jim and Bob for your responses.As far as I can see,the gear is skew cut and matches the worm,both being purchased some 2 or 3 years ago when I obtained the Dapol 48xx.There are one or two aspects of my construction of the chassis that I am not entirely happy with(though they don't affect the performance)so I think I will reclaim the wheels and any other re-useable parts and incorporate them into a new chassis with new gear/worm combo and see how that works.Many thanks for your comments. Ian
  11. Association acetal worms I have recently completed an association 48xx conversion chassis initially using the integral gearbox,but found it difficult to get a consistant mesh between worm and skew gear with the result that the worm wore rapidly.I then removed the gearbox and tried fixing the motor to the chassis and letting a new worm bear directly on the gear which seemed to work much better except that after no more than about 20 minutes of intermittant use the worm was again badly worn.I can only assume that,having removed any burrs on the gear as recommended(unless I have overdone the cleaning)I am not getting the mesh correct.I note from the association standards drawings that the mesh appears very tight and perhaps I am making it too loose,allowing rapid wear.Any guidance would be much appreciated prior to my attempting a rebuild. Ian Lilley
  12. Postscript to my 64xx query,the replacement muffs duly arrived after the mandatory postal delay and fit neatly into the recesses in the the bearings,giving me a working chassis without any need for modification.I can only assume that I distorted the original muffs whilst drilling air bleed holes in them,such that they would not fit into the bearings,a little more care with the new ones seems to have paid dividends!Thanks again to those who provided guidance, Ian Lilley
  13. Thanks Bob and Andy,I knew I had seen a thread regarding the conversions,Bob,but could'nt remember where!It will be useful to refer to should the replacement muffs need modification.Yes,Andy,the bearings do have a recess on the inner face,though they don't seem to be quite as deep as those on the Shop 3 illustration(though that might just be my failing eyesight!)I understand from Jon at shop 3 that the replacement muffs are on their way so I will see how to proceed when they arrive, Again,thanks,Ian
  14. Yes,according to the packet they came in they are the correct items,but I shall see when the replacements arrive, Ian Lilley
  15. Hi I am converting a Farish 64XX to 2mmFS using the appropriate Association components but when assembling the wheelsets I found that the muffs were too long to allow the wheels to close up to the correct back-to-back.I tried to reduce the length of the muffs but,being ham-fisted,shortened them too much such that they won't now hold the wheels in proper alignment.Replacement muffs are on order but I wondered whether they were meant to be used without modification,in which case I must have used the wrong muffs in the first place,or,if they do need to be shortened,what the correct length should be (a crude measurement shows there to be 3.5-4.0mm between the faces of the bearings when placed in the chassis)Any assistance would be most welcome. Thanks in anticipation,Ian Lilley
  16. Sounds like a patient approach is required,Laurie,I'll give it a try when I'm sure I won't have to rush it! many thanks,and to Chris, Ian
  17. Many thanks-seems to work with due care, Ian Lilley
  18. Hi, I have a short spur of easitrack fixed with easitrack glue,but unballasted,which I need to slew over slightly and wondered what might be a suitable solvent to soften the glue.Since I believe the glue is not PVA based,I am assuming that it is not water soluble? Thanks in anticipation,Ian Lilley
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