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Owen E

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  1. Very helpful, all. I'll have a look at the wheels - I certainly have noticed their comparative size/depth/weight, say compared to my 70s and 00s J83s! If I can file them slightly that might help. They're pretty grey wheels, so perhaps mazak? I have done a little of gauging on the wheels (they're a little narrow), though the sheer width of the wheels has made the need less pointed - there's no wobble.
  2. Thought an update might be in order. I got some Neo magnets and fit one, though my magnetometer app did read higher on the old magnet than it had before. I wonder whether really, in the final event, it's just the motor windings that are knackered; the new magnet will give them one last bit of work, though, I guess. (I can always buy a new X03). With the Neo magnet it immediately began driving notably better, but a bit jerkily/noisily, so I checked dry spots and lubricated with Fleischmann. It's now running *MUCH* better. However - the wheels sound noisy on the track, and it's very slightly less happy going forward than back. Either direction, for reliable running, it needs nearly half power to go, and then it's quite quick, but I understand that's normal for the motors. If anyone has any final advice on that slight directional preference/noisy wheels, please do say, Other than that, many thanks, so far it's been a marginally successful repair.
  3. My one of these came with broken front lifeguards (seller was excellent and fully refunded me). The part is rare, and though I can just hang the body on top via the back clip, of course this isn't ideal for a few reasons.
  4. Thanks for looking anyway. Yes, the axleboxes do look renovated. But if either the axle is intact or the whole rolling chassis runs, my problem is solved; I could always do some aesthetic work to improve it.
  5. Thanks Cypherman, I'm bidding on that. If it stays cheap it won't end up costing much more than the usual price for a set of the smaller axles.
  6. I'm in Durham. I'm pretty sure the magnet is the problem. Aside from being notably weak on picking up a screwdriver, I've also used a phone app. On the other two engines on my bench (Ringfield A4 Silver Fox and HP Class 101) it measured 1200; the X03 measured 500 at most. Redgate: I will unscrew that back screw just to check if the fit there is poor. Thanks for the idea.
  7. I had wondered if it seemed a little weak. Have I seen some people offering magnetizing services?
  8. I'm looking for one or other of these, as I have an axle with a worn-down pinpoint fixture which is causing wheel-drop derailments and thus shorts (metal bogie...). Preferably I'd get X776, as it's the smaller (and therefore cheaper?) piece, but can accept the full bogie.
  9. This is an interesting option - not one I was aware about. However, from what I see, fitting and fixing the bearing can be technically complex (pin drills, open soldering, etc). Any easier suggestions? But certainly happy to look into it; for a rare part it could well be a lot easier.
  10. I received a Triang LMS Jinty with an X03 motor today (nice and cheap). Typically the second-hand seller's description wasn't quite on the money! (But this doesn't surprise me now.) The motor works - it takes current, it turns, the loco runs. However, even with a fullish service, it's very, very jerky, running poorly, and stopping - but there's still an electric hum, so I take it there's still adequate current. Nothing is getting visibly stuck. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  11. Stevie, despite my searching, I hadn't found that! Any suggestion on the buffer sleeve? 34etc, yes, the two thoughts I had were replacing the axle (but it's a rare part it seems) or filling out the box. The axle is plainly most of the problem, so I'd rather replace that than mess with the axlebox. Thanks for the advice. Owen
  12. As the title suggests, there's a broader question with a narrower application. What should I do when I want parts for older trains which seem hard to source, including from such mainstays as Peters? Just wait and see? (I say older; I have a modern J83 which I need a plastic chassis frame for, but which is very hard to find.) The specific case I'm interested in the the 1980s King-class (King Henry VIII). The front bogie's front axle has a worn-off spike-end, which means it slips half-out on any gradient or unevenness. This is bad enough, as it causes a functional derailment, but what's worse is these front bogies are made from metal so the bogie dropping to the track shorts everything. It's also missing a front buffer - I can source the buffer itself, but not its "sleeve"/cylinder, and that doesn't even have a separate parts number. So broader question - how to source rare parts? Narrower question - any thoughts on X776/X1013 bogie axles/full bogies, and making/sourcing buffer sleeves? I'm happy to do a bit of modelling for the latter.
  13. An M2.5 washer and nut have done the job; initially I screwed it a little too tight, I think, which caused some issues, but a very slight loosen and it seems to be running well again. I bought a small bag of them, so my A4s can receive the same treatment as needed (as can anything with a trailing bogie using the same fixture).
  14. Thanks. I've ordered a small bag of M2.5 bolts/washers/screws, though obviously the screws aren't the point of it. It was only £2. I'll see how they go!
  15. Hullo all First post here, and aware I may have picked the wrong subforum! I have a Hornby A3 Flying Scotsman tender-drive of the Made in China type. These have a trailing bogie on the tender which is secured by by a pop-fit washer on the screw. Last night when checking the motor I had to remove this, and somehow lost it on the carpet (very aggravatingly). This is contained in the (impossible to source) X9829 spares kit. I'm looking for suggestions about alternative replacement washers - even if I find the one for the Scotsman, I have a few other tenders with similar washers so might as well get in a batch of spares. Thanks Owen
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