Rick Gibson

Further modelling improvements however can, and will be done to the locomotive. My point was that figures can become a limiting factor and here is a way, albeit not to everyone’s taste, to make address this. I don’t plan any further photo enhancements!

I think that using focus stacking (a technique only possible digitally) is a gift to modellers as cameras otherwise often fail to produce images that would reflect the railway photography of the prototype. No one would want a bad photo so controlling light colour balance and focus planes seems reasonable. Don’t we use binary code for DCC and sound too?

Good point. I hadn’t heard of adding smoke, though it seems significantly more manipulated than adding a face and something I wouldn’t do. One thing close up photography does well, is it’s annoying ability to point out modelling shortfalls you don’t notice until the final image.

I didn't even know digital smoke was a thing! Though it would definitely feel a step too far for me My main issue is with figures detracting for the stunning quality of locomotives in particular. On the quality of figures, the old Airfix/Dapol models are remarkably good for carved figures moulded some fifty five years ago. They blend in well with 3D printed figures I keep adding as I've tried to show below. Unfortunately, on my layout, there appears to be some bullying towards other figures!!!! (the water crane base is awaiting correct installation btw)

Just throwing this one out there. I spent the week learning how to focus stack images to make my photographs of the layout more realistic look. I then decided to 'cross a line' and 'manipulate images to improve the modelling' specifically by cloning a face onto to an already high quality 3D laser printed figure. Some may see this as a step too far, but the human eye can identify and differentiate faces that are barely perceivable in the most difficult of circumstances. Many layouts and dioramas are beautifully realistic miniature worlds held back by lumpy and unrealistic figures with no clear credible facial features. In a previous thread I raised my disappointment that (apart from ModelU and Hardy's Hobbies) figures have remained poor for decades while locomotives, rolling stock and buildings are all amazing. Photoshop is frequently used to remove background clutter from layouts photographed in sheds and garages. Also most of us now employ photographs for backscenes. What d'ya reckon? (example image attached)

As a new Modeller I have gone for a small heritage layout. I’ve found this thread really useful. A long way to go and still on a steep learning curve, but appreciative of the advice and ideas here

i can’t use the layout controller as I’m running my locomotives on DCC. The turntable is spun by an auxiliary transformer also used for my point motors. However a DC controller would be fine (I used one to first test the motor)

The link from Steve W. is the same product BUT 50p cheaper!!!!!

I’ve been stopping the TT manually with a three way switch (DPDT) but even at 0.6 rpm it has a tiny bit of momentum so have now ordered a PWM 12v motor speed regulator (EBay £3.12) which claims to reduce speed down to 2%. I was going to put in a resistor to make it slower but apparently that loses power and a PWM avoids this. When I found how cheap they were, I ordered one straight away.

I’ve just had huge success motorising the TT for £11.50. EBay has a Chinese vendor selling high torque 12v Dc motors with gearboxes and perpendicular 6mm shafts for £8 inc post. I chose one that runs at a staggering 0.6 rpm. It has four screw holes on the upper surface. I also bought a shaft converter from 6mm on the motor to 4mm on the TT (£3.50). I attached a laminated plastic plate under the timetable (an old guitar scratch plate) with bolts placed under each of the three drain covers. Three bolts were dropped from the plate to the top of the motor. The motor runs through a DPDT switch on an auxiliary 12v. It runs perfectly and almost silently. A huge saving as the Peco motor kit is £63 and requires a 2Amp (!?!?) transformer.

Thanks both. I do have a CDU on the AC output. I’ve wired it all up and everything is working fine.

A little help needed. I purchased a Gaugemaster GMC WM1 transformer with the intention of using the 16v AC output to power the 9 points on my layout independently from the DCC controller I have. I have just installed a Peco turntable and 12v motor/gearbox (0.6 rpm £8 from EBay works silently and is brilliant- that’s another story). I thought I could run the turntable from my aux on the DCC controller but that is 16v dc and will damage the motor or at least make it run too fast. My question is this: the gaugemaster transformer states 16v AC OR 12v DC. Can I wire up both outputs and simply make sure I don’t operate any point motors whilst the turntable is in operation? Any help is always appreciated. I’m new to all this and the support I get from you folk in the RM Web community is brilliant

Thanks for all this; I can see where and why you’ve suggested the two extra negative droppers. I’m assuming that insulting joiners are only needed on the two rails in the middle of the heel of all the points, but really kind of you to mark them in. However I’m unclear about the junctionmad comment regarding using electrofrogs with a switch to polarise the frog in the direction of travel. I can see that modifying the electrofrog is fiddly but is there some other kind of nightmare I’m unaware of?

I’m beginning an extension to my layout which will be my first venture into DCC. I intend using Peco modified electrofrog points with SEEP motors (the built in auxiliary switch will activate the frog). Are the twelve droppers correctly placed and needed? Especially number 4 which I’m not sure is needed? Any help would be much appreciated. The droppers will be attached to a DCC bus. My current layout is 009 but has a straight length of standard gauge track running across it (no points). This fiddle yard would allow standard gauge engines to do something a lot more interesting than run backwards and forwards on the existing layout!

I’ve just picked up the Peco OO gauge turntable from EBay but have no instructions. Research suggests they are quite straightforward but to be safe, is anyone willing to take a few quick photographs of instructions on a phone to upload here? It would be greatly appreciated

I’ve just picked up the turntable kit on EBay but have no instructions. Research and reviews suggest the kit is easy to assemble. However, I would still be keen to see them! Would anyone be kind enough to take a few quick phone photos of the instructions and post them?

I’m new to railway modelling and have just begun populating my layout. Many figures are sold as OO/HO. I would assume therefore they would be a mean of 3.75mm to the foot. However, the Bachmann figures I bought completely dwarf the Preiser figures (both sold as OO/HO). It seems clear to me that 1/76 is not 1/87 so why don’t manufacturers meet in the middle? I’ve also bought some generic seagulls from Langley models. OO or HO they are HUGE. The largest U.K. gull (great black backed) is 12% smaller than the Langley models at 1/76. By HO standards they are the size of an albatross! Any thoughts?

I’ve just returned to railway modelling following a 40yr absence. A RM magazine junior Modeller of the moth in (I think around) 1980. I’m seeing some phenomenal advances in detail yet very little has changed with figures (passengers, crew, staff). Dapol are using the same OKish moulds from my 1970s modelling. At a trade stall in the recent Manchester MRS show I found some 3D printed figures - amazing but unaffordable at £5 each. Most bizarrely you can now buy about 100 painted figures from China - also a fiver but an absolute disgrace in quality. My question is - who makes good detailed, affordable unpainted figures these days and when will the 3D ‘super figures’ become comfortably affordable? What figures do most modellers use?