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  1. Have you tried a strong solution of washing power, mug full in a washing up bowl ? leave it to soak for 24 hours. It should weaken the glued joints so that they will come apart. Don't know why it works. Aso useful for removing enamal paint from plastic
  2. You do need to build it so all the axles have as much side play in as possible and in particular make sure the axle carrying the motor can also slide sideways. Don't include any of the supplied washers on the axles. I feel DJH are playing safe stating 6' and nothing wrong with that. In one of the railway magazines it was mentioned / suggested that DJH RTR are not straight kits built and sold, but different castings and parts are used to speed up production and keep the costs down. If you look at the RTR version, the cab fits right up to the edges of the footplate while the kit one is much narrower. I still think they use a one piece casting for the body.
  3. Best advice I can give you is take your time and start with the cab on a flat surface (usual glass plate works well) and make bonnets fit up to the cab. Then sort out the height, pay attention to the position of the bonnets relative to the windows. Check the fit of the footplate as you might find the body castings are too long.Then make accessory boxes to fit the cab and bonnets. I soldered them all together rather than just use the screws. Good luck, let me know how you get on
  4. There is just enough sideplay for 5'6" curves, but the centre axle must have sideplay in it, and the motor driven axle must be able to move sideways. The downside is that with all the sideplay, the centre steps will foul the centre nut on the coupling rods. Choices are, material removed from steps or angle steps outwards slightly, if you want to get round tight curves. Read in magazine that DJH use a one piece casting for their RTR 9Fs, instead of the parts in the kit, to batch build at a reasonable cost. Pictures of the RTR class 14 don't have the issues of cab being too narrow, so I am assuming rightly or wrongly they are using a custom one piece casting for the body.
  5. Looking good, nice to see another one being built.
  6. Having had another look and a think, you would loose a raised part at the back of the steps if you try to thin them down, but could replace with strip of metal or plastic. You could remove material from the front but the steps are prowd of the sides. Still think best option is to thin jack shaft crank.
  7. Transfers are from DJH , not cheap but if you were to buy the seperate elements i.e. wasp stripes, numbers etc it would probably work out to cost the same DJH does transfers for other versions, under accessories on their website Thanks for your coments, would like to hear how you get on. I'm glad to get it finished, it ended up putting up a bit of a fight but I was determined to finish it. Got decoder working, it was only a broken wire on my decoder testing board, saved buying another decoder. So I'm going to attempt to get the uncoupling servo working, and have added a working fan using a small ex computer motor.
  8. There is a mesh on the back of the steps and I had already painted the body and steps, only found the problem when I powered the the body and chassis together, The jack shaft is thicker than the wheels and catches at the top of the stroke. It would be possible to redo the steps and repaint,but my thoughts are to thin the jack shaft cam down by about 2mm, might sort it out somtime in the future. I added the comment so that anyone else building the kit would know about it. As to the colour, each to their own, I have an aversion to green diesels
  9. Finished at last, Just got to sort out a decoder, damaged one while trying to get servo for uncoupler to work. Move the servo arm by hand to get it to a mid position and the generated e.m.f. broke the decoder! I still live and learn. Not enough room inside cab to get a couple of seats in for driver, so settled for standing figure instead, Had to angle centre steps out a bit to clear connecting rods.
  10. Been watching paint dry. Chassis now disassembled, painted and reassembled. running very nicely Foot plate painted, then found coupling hooks foul the chassis and obstruct the bolts holes used to attach footplate to chassis. So coupling hooks need to be fitted once everything else is asembled. I prefer to be able to disassemble my locos once complete with out having to remove the coupling hooks each time so modified chassis and changed position of bolts Body has been painted and I have to decide whether to paint the window surrounds or to leave them as bare nickel silver then attach them ready for varnish and transfers
  11. All body castings are now soldered together. There are issues with the castings. The cab casting and both bonnets are too narrow compared to the footplate, when photos of the RTR is compared to the real thing, the cab side is almost at the edge of the footplate, but the accessory boxes are the correct width for the real loco. Hence to get a straight line down the side, material had to be removed from the accessory boxes. Not great for a beginners kit. Buffer beam completed, oval buffers have a pin and slot arrangement to prevent them rotating but the thread on the buffers is not long enough to get the pin to engage in the slot when the nut is fully tightened. So I made 2mm washers felt it was easier that cutting longer threads
  12. Good source of pictures http://www.railwayscene.co.uk/photos/Class_14 There are two types of brake shoes included in kit single and larger double shoes, I'm modelling 14029 in BR blue that uses the single shoe brakes. Does any one know any details of these double shoe brake blocks, thought they might be for NCB version but have found photos of NCB with the smaller shoes. Info would help other people building the kit
  13. Many thanks for adding the photos guys, they really show the key areas that define the look of the class 14 well. Much appreciated.
  14. Got the big castings together Spent time looking at prototype pictures and a drawing found on internet The pictures of the RTR version are a big help With the bonnets positioned I tack soldered top centre and bottom corners (both will be covered by other castings) turned it over and soldered it solid from the inside. Still needs a bit of a clean up in places The kit has a number of small differences compares to the actual class 14 but you can get a good representation. You could just assemble the castings as is but you might want to look carefully at The position of the castings against the windows with the etch suround in place The bonnet castings relative to the buffer beam The cab side and accessory boxes alignment The bend of hand rails going into the accessory boxes Assessory box put in position with etch resting on top just to show what I want to alter
  15. Chris have you any cab interior shots? Malc
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