BartonStDavidSDJR

Hello all, I’m currently having some problems with my DJM 1363 loco. Running on straight track, or very gentle curves, the loco is absolutely fine. However, as soon as it works it’s way over points or any sharper curves, the loco repeatedly stalls, starts up again, and stalls. I’m thinking of fitting it with sound (and stay alive) from the Youchoos guide, but I’d want to know first if that would solve the issue. I can’t bear to have sound cutting out if the issue persists. Thanks in advance.

As of yet I have not altered any decoder settings. I will take a look at those CV values when I’m next in reach of a more refined control system (hopefully over this weekend) as using a Hornby Select has its distinct limitations.

Hello all, I recently decided to take the plunge and order a sound decoder from Roads and Rails for my Bachmann S&DJR 7F. Upon fitting I’ve immediately come across some issues with the running of the loco. Even when set to run on slow speed steps, the loco will suddenly accelerate to the speed set on the controller. A similar thing happens when slowing, although the brake squeal will sound before the loco stops, and even after the squeal stops the loco speeds up before coming to an immediate stop. It’s also not the smoothest whilst on the move either. (This is a complete contrast to its running when fitted with a non-sound decoder) Having read into the matter a little, might it be that the CVs need adjusting so that I can get smooth acceleration/deceleration as well as consistent running inbetween? Interestingly I had the loco set up on my Woodland Scenics wheel cleaner and it would run very well when pushing up against the stops at the end. I’m hoping someone more experienced can point me in the right direction as I am a bit lost now! Thanks in advance.

Hello all, I wanted to share the story behind two new locos I managed to pick up at this weekends’ Brockenhurst Model Railway Show. I was rifling through trays of old locomotives (as I do quite often) and came across a Bachmann GW ‘City’ and ‘Earl’ class. I’m guessing they were considered to be non runners as I paid £50 for the pair, thinking I would be able to spend some time buying replacement parts for them and returning them to working condition. Returning home, I went to test the pair and much to my surprise, they both worked as if they had just been taken out the box. Flawless. In fact, after I’d taken a paintbrush to them to clear up the thick layer of dust, it revealed a spotless finish with no obvious marks or scratches. The only issue is the Earl has a set of con rods missing, which I’m sure I can pick up somewhere. As you can see, apart from the missing connecting rods on the ‘Earl,’ they’re practically brand new, and for just £25 each. So for those of you who complain that model railways are too expensive now, yes I agree in some cases they are. But sometimes, you just have to look underneath that Triang loco, and you might uncover an absolute gem, or in this case, two!

Thanks for your responses. It turns out I had plugged the track feed into the accessory port on the back of the controller. It actually runs very very well now. I feel suitably stupid after that move!

Hello all, I'm experiencing a significant issue with a Dapol GW sentinel (recently purchased) being used with a Hornby Select System. Whenever the loco is put on the track, is speeds away at what seems like full power. Nothing will stop it, not even the emergency stop. It was initially fitted with a Hattons 8-pin decoder (I have since found that they are not compatible with Hornby Systems), but I then also tried two types of DCC concepts 8-pin decoders (Both of which work perfectly in other locos) but they made no difference to the model's behaviour. I'm now starting to question if its the Hornby select that is the problem. I'm hoping someone knows a little more than I do, and that there might be a solution as I really don't want to let the sentinel go! Thanks in advance.

Well I managed to get in contact with them and turns out the prices I paid online were incorrect, so they needed to cancel the order anyway. I don’t know why they’d be advertising prices to be lower than they actually are, but needless to say I know I can get the items much cheaper elsewhere. Just got to wait for the refund to appear in my account now, fingers crossed.

Hello all, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with Aspire Gifts and Models near Dorchester. I put in an order earlier today, but as of yet I have still had no email confirmation, nothing. It’s left me a little worried as reading further into others experiences has revealed a number of issues similar to mine. I tried calling, but admittedly it was close to closing time so I’ll try again tomorrow. Have I made a terrible mistake placing an order with them, or should I have just placed the order with Hattons, spend the extra £15 (for the same items!) and get a fast and efficient service?

Hello all, Apologies for the lack of updates recently. Yet again other things get in the way of railway modelling! A couple of weeks ago I attended the first exhibiton since my appearance at the Gartell Light Railway back in February 2020. Although not a huge exhibition, from what I gather the show at Yeovil Junction was a success, and I have been invited back for their Exhibition in April 2022, so I didn't put the events manager off too much it appears! That said, preparation for the show was a little difficult as during the weeks I am away from my layout, so a seccond Peco Smartswitch was partly installed the weekend before the show, as well as replacement board electrical connectors and a general wiring tidy up. It turns out I was far too ambitious and I ended up installing the last few bits of it the Friday evening before the trip up to Yeovil, so the first day of the show was test day. Not ideal, but by the end of the show it was all running well again, having solved problems with dodgy point blades, and a solder joint insistent on becoming disconnected from the track. (ABOVE) Images taken the weekend before the show. I decided to set the layout up and try and tackle all wiring at once, which fortunately worked. New connectors and servos can be seen underneath the board. (ABOVE) A couple of images taken during the show. The response to the layout from the general public was very positive, although nothing beat the compliment given at the Gartell show that my cows were the correct colour for the period! Some stock statistics for you then: 17 locomotives, 40 wagons, and 22 coaches came with me (Thankfully all returned) and I found these numbers to work very well, enabling a lot of different stock to make an appearance before it entered for a second time. So what next? A couple of new extensions are being built for the layout. One will double the length of the storage yard to 6ft, as the current length is a little too short now I have much more stock needing to come in and out. The other extension will add about 10cm onto the front, purely scenic, so that I can develop the goods yard a little more, as well as adding a new cattle dock I have in production to replace my scratchbuilt variation which is slowly falling apart. Overall then lots to keep me busy over the next few months, and hopefully I can get cracking with the front extension soon, I can't wait to get that new cattle dock in place as I feel its a significant improvement over the one in place currently. Onwards we go!

Thanks for the replies, so stick as is with the base then? Maybe a little more toning down?

Hello all, After a visit to the South Devon Railway last week, I picked up a Ratio cattle dock kit, as my current scratchbuilt one has served a purpose, but is now falling apart. I have started painting up the brickwork, but have reached the stage where I don’t know what else to do to it. I’ve already received a suggestion that the mortar could benefit from further toning down, but is there anything else I can do to make it more like how cattle docks were in the 30s, as I’m a little in the dark when it comes to this. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hello all, another small update on the third coach in the GWR Pre-big four “hand me down” rake. having successfully brought the carriage height down by 3mm, and the roof pitch down by another 3mm ish, I decided to have a crack at a new roof for the 4- wheeler. It began as the above, part of a triang clerestory roof, which I split into its three sections, filing down where necessary. I had based the new roof pitch off the shape of this, so no additional filing was needed to make it sit properly. The only major work was to flatten the top section so that it would more or less fit the contour of the roofline. I’ve now set about filling gaps to hopefully provide a seamless, shallow-curved roof for the carriage, and I have to say I’m pleased with the result so far! So far materials list is thus: -X2 Hornby 4 wheel coaches (one as the subject, another for compartment divisions) -X1 Triang Clerestory Roof X1 Lima MK1 bogie (split into separate axles) I think it can definitely be classed as a cut and shut model! Let me know any thoughts on the progress so far.

It’s a common misconception that these coaches are overwhelmingly awful. A bit (ok a lot) of cutting, filing and modifying and it can start to look respectable! Thanks for your kind words.

Hello all, firstly I’m back posting again now that I’ve got more time on my hands, for the time being at least. Since my last post not much has gone on with the GW carriages I’m kitbashing together, apart from the addition of a third. This begun as a Hornby 4-wheeler, but I have challenged myself to see if I can actually make something half decent from it. So far this has included reducing the bodyside height by about 3mm. The roof height will also be reduced and flattened to fit a spare roof I have lying around. I have also reduced the chassis height by another couple of mm by removing the old axleboxes and replacing them with ones from a Lima MK1 bogie. Not 100% accurate I know, but once footboards are in place they won’t be that noticeable! See the pic below. I have also been taking some time to begin building a garden railway, and an extension to my indoor layout, so rest assured there’s plenty more to come over coming days, weeks and months!

Hello all, a slightly different update this time. I apologise for the lack of posts as of late, but unfortunately progress on my GWR carriages covered in this blog has temporarily stalled as other commitments have somewhat taken over over recent months. However I do aim to show some images of a couple of other small projects I have been slowly working away on since my last post on the carriages when I have the time. Hopefully you will start to see regular updates from about the end of May - I'm looking forward to having the time to share my modelling progressions with you all, and thank you for all your support so far.

Progress on the Clerestory and 6-wheel carriages has slowed slightly over the past week due to other commitments, however I have found time today to look into the Triang chassis ride height. I knew at the start the old Triang chassis would be far too high when running with more up-to-date stock, as shown in the below comparison image with a Hornby ‘Bow Ended’ Collett. It is clear to see that the 6-wheeler is about half a buffer to high. Ok, so maybe the issue can be addressed slightly by re-siting the wonky buffer and fixing the body in place, but the difference would still be noticeable. Now, for ‘older’ stock it definitely wouldn’t have been mixed with the newer carriages, and the plan is to run it with the Triang Clerestory also in the works. Now comes the ride height issue between coach and loco. Interestingly enough, when paired with the old Hornby ‘Terrier’ there is very little difference, thank goodness, as the terrier was most likely going to be the traction for the rake, but I am aware the ‘Terrier’ is on the higher side of life in any case. This will do for now, hopefully pairing the coaches with the right loco will not show up the ride-height issue too much. A new chassis will probably be made for it anyway in the future, so this really is more of an experiment before moving on to a much more refined solution. Thanks to those who have pointed me in the direction of such solutions, I can say that this will happen in the future, when is another matter, but for now I will continue cracking on with what I have.

Thanks for the tips, anyone got any clue how I can recreate the gold lining?

I fancied a change from the 6-wheeler tonight, although progress on that has been coming along well. In the background of some previous images some of you may have noticed a Tri-ang clerestory, in the progress of repainting. Well here it is: One side has almost been completed. Another coat of brown is needed from the brake ducket along the passenger bays. After this the cream will be applied to the appropriate panels, with red and cream being used on the droplights. Eventually it will look the same as the guards area. One of Hornby’s long GW clerestories will be sourced to provide bogies and underframe detail. Above is the 6-wheeler progress to date, very much looking like a respectable coach now. The underframe has been sprayed black, and the livery on the opposite side has almost been completed. The chassis, body and roof are yet to be fixed in place as I still have the original seating to repaint and replace inside the coach. Still a long way to go but the coaches are progressing well.

Some small updates on the 6-wheel carriage project: First of all the underframe has been developing nicely. The ratio footboards have been removed from the original coach and attached to the new chassis. Lower footboards have been fabricated from some spare steel rail, filed down appropriately and set in place. Starting to hide the somewhat crude triang axlebox detail. (Image Below) Below is a snap of one footboard just to show what has been done compared to the original rail. On the coach I think it does the job well, and adds some all important weight. The roof in the background has also been sprayed ready. Axlebox tie bars have also been fabricated in a similar way, this time using some code 75 rail. Not as good maybe as brass wire, but it does a job and once painted shouldn’t look out of place at all. Some smaller Hornby wagon wheels have also been added to reduce the ride height a little more. Hopefully it’s starting to look more like an acceptable carriage underframe, and not just a crude triang chassis any more! Just the other side to do before I can move onto brake gear and finishing the carriage body.

Thanks for the pointers, it certainly involves a little modellers license but I’m going to take those suggestions just in case anyone at exhibitions challenges the existence of such a model! The Tri-ang underframe is a good start but I agree the ride height is a little high, hopefully it won’t look too out of place with the other coaches I am planning to revamp. I think the Chivers option may appear some time in the future!

Thanks! The clerestory coach in the background is another ongoing project - eventually it will join the 6-wheeler after painting and detailing. Also got to do something about those terrible triang bogies...

My first entry: The other day I began having a look at creating a semi-fictional GW 6-wheel brake carriage, having been inspired by an article on the Swansea Railway Modellers Group. I already had a Triang 6-wheel chassis, a suitable chassis for now which will be heavily detailed in the near future. The body? Taken from a ratio kit which I had started painting but never got any further. Work over the past couple of days has included shortening the ends of the chassis slightly to accept the ratio body, reducing the ride height slightly and adding new wheels for a better ride. The photos below show the progress so far, still a long way to come but I hope to have the footboards added by the end of today. (Below) The chassis ready for accepting the body. The middle wheelset has been filed flat to ensure good running qualities. Brake gear, linkages and other gubbins will appear eventually. (Below) The chassis side on. Not much change yet but footboards and tie bars will be added soon. I’m also planning to remove and re-site the brake blocks, add new whitemetal axleboxes and springs, as the triang offering has no relief whatsoever. (Below) A test fit of the body shows how it could look in the end. As well as the details to the underframe, new buffers, couplings and vac pipes will appear. Hopefully it’ll end up looking somewhat half decent.

I’m wanting to repaint the roofs on my Hornby Collett bow ended carriages. I have decided I want to go with grey, but after trawling through many forum posts similar to mine I can’t find a grey which people recommend. I am get to dabble in airbrushing, so an aerosol is my best bet. Has anyone got any recommendations as to the right sort of aerosol colour for this? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for your responses. I’ve had a response from my model shop and one of the gears has split. The only problem is that they’ve discovered all screws to get to the gear have been superglued in place and can’t be undone. Seems like whoever did this did it for a reason. So I’m left with two options now I believe: 1) Write the model off and get something different 2) Find a replacement chassis from another 7F and swap it with the non-working one I think the only component which I would have to swap across with the replacement chassis is the cylinder block, which shouldn’t be too hard. Any thoughts as to what I should do?