lincolnshiremodeller

Thanks that's useful to know. Did you need to respray the front to accommodate the headlight or was it already a match? Great modelling as usual. Cheers Simon

Did you use a kit as such for your 45/0 to 45/1 conversion or your own made up parts (for the roof). I'm planning on doing something similar with my Bachmann 45/0. Looking good. Simon

Thanks for the heads up.

Any word on when further stock of TEAs are planned? Thanks Simon

Thanks @Lemmy282 and @LMSfan72 for your replies. I knew about P16/20 but didn't want to make the leap of faith without knowing for sure (it's not my loco). Much obliged Simon

Hi I'm looking to fit a Lais Stay Alive to a Bachmann factory sound fitted class 40. I've done a trawl online for either a instruction/video of somebody doing similar or a wiring diagram of said decoder but have drawn a blank. Would any kind soul know which are the +Ve and GND pins of the decoder used as per attached photos, to which I can solder a Stay Alive unit? First picture with circular sticker is obviously the top of the decoder and the second picture the bottom. Many thanks Simon

Have you tried the Hunt magnetic couplings from Westhill Wagon Works? I've used the buckeye variants on coaching stock ad am about to try out a different variant on freight stock. I prefer Kadee couplings but they are just becoming so darn expensive to roll out to every loco, coach, and wagon. So I'm in the process of swapping some out with the Hunt couplings on fixed wagon rakes that don't get shunted. SJ

The Hornby class 31 is a prime example of this. Its a great model that runs exceptionally well, but trying to buy one in a BR blue or sector livery was always overly difficult. Most of my locos are resprays of DCRail liveried examples which were heavily discounted....not surprisingly there wasn't a demand and retailers needed to move them on. Its not a surprise Accurascale have jumped in and claimed the 31, and Cavalex are doing the same with the 56 and 60. Hornby produced great models just not in the quantity or style that people wanted and now they'll likely loose the market altogether.

Running a flat bladed scalpel across the roof cuts down on the amount of sanding required. The ribs do come away quite easily.

Oh now yer talkin!

I use the cylindrical magnets inserted into a hole drilled right through the baseboard which means the magnet can be pushed out if it's to be removed. It works very well but does involve some trial and error in terms of the strength of the magnets. I use two stacked one above the other in the same hole. I also paint the top of the magnet and also the Kadee itself (frame dirt) to slightly weaken the pull. If it's too strong then the Kadee will simply stick to the magnet. Once working you just need to add a scenic marker of some sort to remind yourself where the magnet is!

Yes agreed a great range of kits. I have a 114 which uses a Bachmann 108 chassis extended to fit. I'm on the look out on ebay for another one to convert into a parcels unit. Simon

Great looking selection of DMUs. Especially liking the 114 which is something on my long term radar. What's its origin? Modified DC kits?

Good for him. The longer it keeps him away from the dreaded X box the better!

I sense you're itching to get started but have you insulated the garage and thought about heating the space before you start building baseboards? A cold garage over the winter and a sauna in the summer may temper your enthusiasm!