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Will Hay

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    46
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  • Location
    Buggleskelly Station
  • Interests
    Runner. Tea Drinker. Wannabe model train enthusiast. Collector of 1970's Palitoy Action Man. Husband and father. Peal Jam, FF, Bush, Born Jan 1971 but look forty.

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  1. I second the last post insofar Rails of Sheffield are great. Them, along with Hattons, are my first choice. I've often looked at Olivia's numerous times over the last six months, i.e. since I started the hobby and have been extremely put off by what I agree is inflated prices. I've not experienced the somewhat bizarre comment that if you're not from Yorkshire you're not welcome, even though I live in God's own county myself. The stories re. insecure payments, combined with my experience of their prices, means I'll never bother checking them out again, it's just a waste of time.
  2. I've had a clear out too, to the tune of £3.5k. That'll teach my wife to bemoan the fact that I can't resist a bargain when, in fact, my previous, multiple purchases turns out to be 'massive' bargains. One pound maximum fees are great, but don't forgot that PayPal fees are extra.
  3. Oh, and it's hardwood ply with a white primer, not contriboard.
  4. Many thanks. Great minds think alike. Since last dropping in here I'm considering using roofing felt. I have some in the garage and I'm surprised, firstly, how flexible it is and secondly, how little it 'sheds' its surface. I'm going to do a mock up with a length of track and see how static grass looks applied on top. I guess I can combine this with some ballast? I'm also considering reducing the fiddle area and siding to enable a little more modelling. The truth is, the more I test the layout the more I think I'd prefer more movement than shunting etc. Any thoughts on the roofing material? It's certainly preferable to permanently ballasting the track, especially as this is my first ever layout, not to mention never having had trains/locomotives before.
  5. The three first radius curves you see were added for the sake of adding another line, they've not been used, there's no R1 track on it at all, I successfully incorporated a number of two and three rad curves on this length, along with some very short 22.5deg sections, and other than a few small R606 R2 curves to accommodate the late addition of stations five and six I'm still waiting to arrive, all is up and running
  6. I see, okay, thank you all. Buying, trying and calculating makes sense, I guess with the Woodland Scenic 'shakers' I'm certainly going to need more than one cannister. It's Hornby track by the way. I don't have an 'era' as such, this is my first and last attempt at modelling a railway and I'm looking for realism rather than 100% accuracy. Realism insofar as someone unconnected with the hobby would look at it and think it as wonderful as I would all, rather than someone who identifies the wrong stone from the wrong quarry in the wrong decade. If I was forced to pick one, I'd lean towards the 1970's, predominantly flush with diesels, a few steam engines and a few newer locomotives that have come in via a De Lorean. My 11' x 9' is mostly track, apart from my plans of a few grassed areas, track ballast [obviously] and a level crossing leading to car parking and station access. Not disimilar to the attached, but now with a multitude of changes to where the sheds are shown [three o' clock], along with a further two stations added [six o' clock]. I'm also intending to lose a small track length [168mm, from memory] from each side to bring it in and add hills to the perimeter. All only plans, of course, knowing me it'll change. Thanks again.
  7. Hello. I'll be shortly starting on my modelling and would appreciate a heads up as to how much ballast I'll need, per linear metre of track. I have approximately one hundred metres of track and don't want to suffer high cost of small quantities, nor do I want to order way too much. I've read that there are three sizes for 00 gauge so, an idea of perhaps the middle size would be useful. Out of interest, what determines the size of ballast one might use for 00 guage? Thanks.
  8. Ah, the site of my last employment. Bravo
  9. I addressed my issue a different way. I replaced my [conventional] loft ladder with a concertina type, thereby reducing the footprint in the loft, which means I no longer need a removable section in my layout. Thanks to all that contributed.
  10. Thanks all. So, in short, if I'm only using the layout when the removable board is in place and as long as I engage the power after the section has been laid, the slidey fish plates are fine?
  11. Ah, I see. So if I'm only using the track when the removable section is back in place, I have no problems? Why would anyone run locomotives around a track with a section missing?
  12. I'm sorry to dig up old posts but I'm at a loss as to why ensuring current is passed to the track section that's mounted on the removable section seems so complex. Providing everything is level and that the two ends of track neatly align when the removable board is in place, why not simply use a fishplate, one that's been fettled to slide up and down, and one which can be slid back over the cut joint each time? Thanks.
  13. We had an extension built a while ago. At the time we wanted steps leading to the garden in the centre of the patio, because that's where they were before we remodelled. The builder suggested we move them to the left to maximise patio space, which we did. To this day I think about it often, i.e. a very close shave as a result of my limited imagination. This feels like a similar moment. Thanks to all who suggested the square layout in my 11' x 9', rather than my initial L' shape. That would have been a big mistake and, like my patio, a wasted opportunity. Special thanks to Zomboid for his ongoing and invaluable assistance. After two, twelve hours days on my own at this due to social distancing by someone not overly proficient at DIY, I'm about to undercoat [I didn't have grey, and couldn't wait] and hope to be playing with track layout tomorrow.
  14. Thanks. <if I could find a thumbs up symbol I'd insert it here>
  15. I'm referring to the best method of ensuring that there's 12v power across the track joint, at the split in the board between the fixed panel and the removable panel.
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