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  1. Ahhh right, for some reason I thought it could be removed by undoing 2 screws but as I have not actually seen the loco myself except for in a review on youtube i am incorrect.
  2. I had a thought with regards to the hush hush loco both in original and rebuilt format. Given that the rear wheels under the cab ar fixed in place, Is it not possible to use a piece like that which holds the front bogie on Gresley pacific locomotives with a actual bogie attached to it just like at the front so that the loco would have all its wheels on the rails instead of looking like a dogs back legs when she runs backwards. The piece which allows the bogie to swing would have to be flattened in order to fit under the cab otherwise the rear bogie would lift the loco up at the cab end. Just a thought but I think it would greatly improve the look of the loco seeing all wheels on the rails instead of flangeless wheels doing nothing. The above modification would be the 1st thing I would do with the loco no matter which version I purchased but with its stupidly ridiculous high price I think its likely to be way beyond my reach.
  3. To be fully honest, I had absolutely no idea Bachmann were even making new bogies for the peak locos as I haven't looked at their website for quite some time as I have been busy with projects and university studies, my apologies.
  4. Although I have never owned a class 44/45/46 loco, I do have a class 40 which only drives on 4 axles although I have been trying to think of ways I could possibly get it to drive on 6 axles but up to now I have not had much success with the idea.
  5. I would say that as far as the EM Gauge A3 is concerned although nobody needs me to say it as we are all very much in the know on how to repair models, I think the romford / markits wheels would likely be far better for the loco as they have squares on the back of them making them much easier for quartering and therefore negating the chances of a slipped wheel.
  6. Great work there, I like the shots of the unit running fast as though running ecs back to the depot
  7. I must admit this is something that I will be looking at doing sometime in the future, my loco with the running number 64838 ( not sure of the Bachmann catalogue number ) is still running with its originsl split chassis system and has only ever had 1 motor change in the nearly 17 years I have owned it. The only other changes I have made to the loco although I would say purely fictional is to couple the loco to a tender from a V2 kit which I fitted with pickups and wired throught to pickups mounted on the base plate with phosphor bronze strip pickups touching the driving wheel treads which has improved locos performance. I think having a kit built chassis would be beneficial to the loco as they give plenty of room for extra weight to be added aswell.
  8. For the pickups on the unpowered bogie in a Hornby class 110 which uses the same motir as the class 25 and hst, I make my pickups using copperclad board and phosphor bronze strip. The copperclad board is fixed on top of the bogie inside so theat once it has been gapped to prevent shorting the power the phosphor bronze strip is soldered to the copperclad board and bent down so that it bears on the treads of the wheels. On my class 110 unit I have 2 of the motors used in the class 25 / hst converted to cd motors in an 8 coach hybrid unit ( purely fictional of course ) and in the 2 coaches 1 either side of where the motors are located near the middle of the train the bogies in both these coaches both have pickups at both ends of each coach giving 16 wheel pickup which has greatly improved the performance of the train For the class 25 I would recommend ( if you ever decide to do so ) adding a 2nd motor and run them either in original form or cd motor converted. I have found that adding a 2nd motor and extra weight greatly improves tractive effort and thus gives more options for the trains the loco will work in that the formations of coaches or wagons can be longer.
  9. It's a pity the real train couldn't be restored to working order even with the vehicles that are preserved and run at even a modest speed up to 100 mph
  10. Just for information purposes you need a 0.8 mm or if you have 1 available a 0.85 mm drill bit for the sleepers as they can be fiddly to fit.
  11. For me I think a loco like the W1 needs a rear bogie that actually moves instead of a pair of axles with non flanged wheels fixed in place. Although I do not own 1 of these locos and whilst it might seem like sacrilege to do so, the 1st thing I would be doing is completely removing the rear 4 wheels under the cab and fitting a swivelling bogie as it would help steer the loco when reversing within a depot instead of it looking like a dogs back legs. Though not a W1, I bought a P2 chassis off ebay have been looking for a way to adapt the cartazzi to steer the loco when running backwards within a depot but with either the P2 or the W1 some modifications are rrquired in my opinion. On the W1 the primary thing I would try would be to see if the plastic moulding to which the front bogie is attached is removable and if so, I would then take off the front bogie, remove the spring and refit the bogie. If there is no lifting of the front driving wheels its job done, that would be my remedy.
  12. Can I ask please if the diveunder is going to be wired or if there are plans to install OHLE through it
  13. Although not a 4-6-0 for which I apologise I did the process of repowering a Bachmann Peppercorn A1 from the 1st batch that had dodgy motors which burnt out within weeks of purchasing it. The loco has a Hornby tender drive unit with a metal tender body from a kit adapted to fit around the motor and some lead glued inside the body so it sits neatly between the block by the gear cogs and on the other side of the body next to the power connections for the cd motor with a bit of masking tape over the lead to prevent it shorting out. I also coupled a lima parcels coach fitted with pickuos on both bogies as an auxiliary power collection coach and she runs quite happily towing easily 6 or 7 coaches aswell as the pickup coach.
  14. I must admit I would be interested the test print of the 89 as I have wanted a model of the loco ever since I 1st saw it in 1 of the railway magazines when a feature was done about it.
  15. I definitely agree, missing flanges can certainly cause steam locos to look like a dogs back leg when reversing. The big issue as far as Hornby locos go is that on locos like the Peppercorn A1 and Gresley P2 the rear bogie area under the cab is not opened out like on the Gresley A3/A4 locos to enable the use of the flanged wheels because the flanges touch on the casting and short out the track power. Also the use of flznged wheels under the cab is more realistic and helps steer the loco aswell.
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