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Wear Valley Wanderer

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  1. A problem with pre-ordering on the new site: On 16th August I pre-ordered one of the new A5's. As a regular rails customer, I went onto the new website on the 19th and was met with a screen showing that the deposit for my already pre-ordered A5 hadn't been completed. Upon doing so I was taken to the summary screen only to discover that I now had TWO ordered! (One paid for on the 16th, and one of the 19th). I rang up to cancel the second one and instead of being offered a refund, was told the extra amount would be added to the first. A week later there was no sign of any increased deposit (It still showed £30) so I rang up and was told the manager would have to deal with it, but they would chase it up for me. By the 2nd September, with still no reply, I emailed asking for a refund. Come the 8th September and still nothing. I've now had to go through Paypal to get my money back. Goodness knows how long that will take! Come on Rails, I know there may be some teething problems with the new website, but if a customer has made an accidental payment due to a problem with said site, I don't think it should be an issue to give them their money back.
  2. The mystery has now been solved. It only cost me a 4-pin chip and hours of frustration, but I got there in the end. The instructions on the packaging are correct, if a little misleading in the fact that you are meant to snip the wires to the exit rails (The two just after the frog itself in the picture I posted earlier). These are then twisted together as you do with a double slip, then wired to the polarity switch terminals of the opposite point motor. Finally, one of the point motors (At least in my case) has to have its track power reversed. The instructions for the point motor suggest on some occasions you may have to do this, but when and why is not explained. Thirdly, I found one of my wires had become disconnected, so checking and double checking with a multi-meter is essential for maintaining sanity. Now to get on with the rest. Only twenty more points to go. Thanks again to all for your help! Cheers, Mark
  3. I've just been sent a photo of the back of the single slip packaging by the very kind chap at Durham Trains of Stanley. There's no mention of snipping the wires and twisting them together like the double slip. It would also seem that the frogs are switched by the opposite motor? I'm going to go and have a play to see if this makes any difference, multi meter in hand. In words of Captain Oates, "I may be some time".
  4. Sorry, I thought they were one and the same thing. To clarify I had the exit rails connected to the polarity switching terminals on the point motors. When that didn't work I tried wiring the exit rails to Gaugemaster DCC80 autofrogs. Same issue, but at least it eliminated the possibility of a fault on the motor.
  5. The slip is completed isolated from the rest of the layout (As with the double slips), with the outer two tracks powered directly to the main bus. If I get a chance today I'll see about getting a photo.
  6. I wired in the juicers to the exit rails as, rightly or wrongly, I've followed the same wiring as the double slip. Snipping the wires and twisting them together for a polarity switching juicer is recommended on the back of the double slips packaging from Peco. Unfortunately I bought the single slip second hand and it didn't come with any wiring diagrams. For the life of me I can't find one anywhere on the internet despite hours of searching. Contacting the model shops has been pretty fruitless as no-one seems to have any in stock. If anyone has a picture of the wiring diagram that comes with a PL-80 set of points (On the rear of the packaging), I'd be very grateful if you could share! Internet wise, all I can find is info on a double, and there seems to be an assumption that the single and the double are treated the same. This, however, does not appear to be the case. The fact that I've had to replace a blown decoder seems testimony to that. Since I'm not that electrically savvy, I find wiring diagrams best and easiest to follow.
  7. I'm using Code 100 peco track. So far I've fitted two double slips which work a treat. On part of the layout I've installed a single slip (Sl-80) which is Insulfrog. I've wired this the same way as the others, Isolating all the rails on the outside of the slip, snipped the wires on the back, twisted them together, and plumbed them into the point motors to switch the polarity. Power is to the outermost rails the same as the double slips. My rather crude picture is attached. Where things are going pear shaped is when I have the locos travelling across the point in the direction indicated. There is a dead spot (Noted in yellow) where there is just no power when the point are thrown in that direction. I've checked continuity with the V-shaped rails which are connected to the polarity switch and all seems fine there on both ends. Unfortunately I gave one of my short wheelbase locos a nudge across the 'dead' spot and it promptly blew the decoder. Has anyone any idea what could be going on here? Cheers, Mark
  8. Well, as I suspected, it really was a simple fix after all. Hopefully this will be of help to anyone else who is left scratching their head over these things, particularly if they're new to DCC like myself. Please note that this was all programmed 'ON THE MAIN' (Aka POM). 1. I checked the wiring diagram which comes with the motors and made sure everything followed the diagram exactly. It's very easy to follow. 2. I made sure the DR4018 was linked from Power to Signal, and from there to the Bus wires (As per the PDF instructions). I had been using an external 12v source which the PDF instructions for the DR4018 suggests you can. The fellow from DCC Train Automation didn't think it was a good idea, so I ditched the external power supply in case it was causing an issue. 3. I followed the instructions in the PDF for resetting the DR4018 to factory settings. I did this in case I'd made some sort of bizarre cock-up I wasn't aware of when I'd been playing with the thing. 4. When this was done I switched the whole system off for 30 seconds then back on. This step is not clear in the instructions, but I have read on line that the DR4018 won't recognise what you've done unless you power it off after being programmed. Probably a bit like restarting your computer after a change. 5. I programmed the first point motor as per the PDF instructions. It was wired into OUT1 on the DR4018. Worked fine, no problem. 6. Again, as per the PDF instructions I changed CV47 to value 6. This is the universal value recommended for the MP1 motor. Again, powered off for 30 seconds and restarted. This next step is where things had been going wrong, and revealed a hidden problem that I hadn't expected. 7. The next point was wired into OUT2 on the DR4018. Using the Z21 App on my tablet, I added a point to the visual representation of my layout. IMPORTANT: Don't press program for each successive point! Just add a point on the app and the DR4018 should recognise it automatically. To be clear, only the first point motor (Wired into OUT1) needs to be programmed. That's it. Except in my case I found that the OUT3 terminal on my DR4018 unit is faulty. Any point motor wired into this is constantly whirring back and forth without any input from the user. The rest of the terminals work fine, so for now I've simply used the rest and left OUT3 disconnected. Disappointing that I can only use 7 of the 8 terminals, but I'll give the place I bought it from a shout as it may still be under warranty. Hope that's cleared that up. Thanks to everyone who gave advice, it really was invaluable. Mark
  9. I must have been doing something fundamentally wrong. I'm going to try resetting the DR4018 to factory settings, check the wiring is bang on and try again following the above steps to the letter.
  10. Thanks. As good as it looks I don't think I'll be able to use the maintenance programme as it's only for PC, and not an android app. I'll give it another go on my tablet. Failing that I'll see if my old laptop's working and take that into the loft. Fingers crossed
  11. I've been trying to change CV47 to 6, but for some reason it's not doing anything. I don't suppose you could 'talk' me through how you did it?
  12. I'm hoping some kind soul can help me work out how to program the Z21 controller (The black one) to run the Digikeijs DR4018 with the MTB MP1 point motors. On paper they look like a marriage made in heaven, but so far I can only get one working. Anything else runs constantly left to right, left to right, etc. until you physically switch it all off. I believe this may be down to the universal setting for CV47, however I've found that the instructions for the DR4018 refer to the old Z21 app which is no longer supported, and when I try to program it via the new app it tells me it's unable to find anything under the address 9999, which the DR4018 uses. I'm trying to program the DR4018 to universally use value 6 under CV47 which is supposedly the correct one for this type of point motor. I've got 24 of these motors and three DR4018's, but only one is wired in and three point motors on the layout thus far. I've checked the wiring numerous times and they're all wired up the same way. Every Youtube video I've watched has some elements of how to do it, but they always leave bits out or have a slightly different set up. Can someone explain to me in simple terms how to do this? Cheers, Mark
  13. Around where I live there are a lot of copper beech trees, particularly near and along the old railway routes. I'd like to model them to add a nice splash of colour to the layout, however I am left scratching my head as to how to do the leaves. Noch don't seem to do the colour I'm looking for, and I'm not a huge fan of using foams. I'm hoping someone may be able to point me in the right direction. Cheers, Mark
  14. Very nice. Not sure which speaker I prefer though, so I'll have to put my thinking cap on. Thanks for the replies.
  15. Hi folks. I'm looking for a DCC sound chip and speakers for a Heljan Class 15. I've recently discovered Digitrains do a Zimo chip with a Paul Chetter sound file taken from the last remaining Class 15 currently being restored. Similarly, DCKits are selling a Loksound 5 chip with a Legomanbiffo sound file that looks like it's from a Paxman engine (Same as the original Class 15) but I don't believe is from the actual restored loco. Both videos are on Youtube. Personally I like the sound of the Legomanbiffo one, but what the sound like 'in real life' as opposed to a youtube video is another matter altogether. Has anyone any experience with these files? The other issue is that I've never installed a Zimo chip as all mine are Loksound. Are there any noticeable differences between the two? Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Mark
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