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  1. The part of the instructions, which have only a couple of sketches and reminded me today of Airfix instructions back in the day when they purely text, is to add either a signal wire pulley, or a crank arm (cosmetic). This is different from the other kit I did which just offered a crank, so naturally I've gone with the pulley - though this is I suspect not prototypical for the period. It uses the same part as the bracket on the post and folds up with a pulley on another short bit or rod. This is soldered to the baseplate pointing either in-line or at right angles to the signal. The wire is comi
  2. On the way to the workbench I passed a flock of newly arrived tail lamps making their way towards their traditional nesting habitat; to whit some buffer stops. Beautiful plumage. And so session number 2 with the signal kit. The next step in the instructions is to make the arm. All quite straightforward, but in the absence of any non-soldery pins to hold things square I did this by lying it face down on a bit of wood with a hole drilled for end of the pivot wire. Then looking down from above I lined up the other hole by sight, holding it with the point of a needle file while s
  3. Apropos nothing really, but does anyone happen to know who made oil tail lamps for BR? I just got to wondering...
  4. Whilst painting and decorating, fitting fishplates and the final bits of rodding and signal wires proceeds in stops and starts (they aren't my favourite activities) I decided building a nice kit would be a pleasant diversion. Though I'm itching to build the 43two1 Models BR 20T brake van kit (I built one a few years ago, a delightful kit) reason suggested making the MSE signal kit for the platform would be more practical. Those of the tidy workshop persuasion might like to go and have a lie down at this point. Whilst tidying up (i.e. making a space) I found the lamp off the buffer
  5. With fence/barricade/thing now all nice and dried it's was time to place it. I'm not quite sure what's going to happen past the points yet, so there may, or may not, be more. When the glue finally decided to set clay was worked around the posts, spread on a little PVA for grip. At the back the ground falls away rapidly to the cess, which will be decorated to look like its kind happened over the years rather than any sort of wall or such. With the posts and back done the ground was skimmed with clay to add some uneveness as it's intended not to look like a concrete slab.
  6. I think I mentioned earlier that I fancied having some heavy duty fencing alongside the reception road run-round. In these 'interesting' times it's proved unviable to get hold of just two lengths of bullhead rail to make it as I envisaged, but that may have been a blessing. I have a length of flat bottom rail which I vaguely considered using, but that was a no go since although it bends nicely left and right so to speak, up and down without twisting isn't easy. I can't help wondering if bullhead would be all that different. No matter, yet another Plan B has been enacted. Using sle
  7. On Travellers Fair... The (private) buffet on Exeter St. Davids c. 1980 - pasties to die for. And a good staff discount. Also at Yeovil Junction.
  8. It's all Peco bar one set of points I made. I didn't much enjoy making them, hence Peco.
  9. So having settled on Railmatch acrylic Sleeper Grime... I've run out. More on order. There's a coupe of pics in different lighting of the test piece now it's fully dry. The difference in the light is just the camera being a few inches higher in one that the other. As the pullies have arrived, I've made up the three sets needed for the platform signal and dummy I'd omitted. I've used Design No.3(a-198) for these - because I'd not ordered enough. Rather than making a pair represent one pulley, I've use single ones spaced a bit. The thing is stuck into sleeper off-cut so it can
  10. So, 24rs later than advertised, I've tried the Railmatch acrylic thought the spray pot. It didn't go well, the sprayer kept blocking. This might have been caused by the enamel paint trial, but it might have been not liking acrylic paint, who knows. It's certainly a lot easier to use, as in it washes off hands easily... As it turns out, the acrylic diluted 3:1 works very well when stippled on, the paint doesn't stick to the ballast like enamel so there was a lot less grief with inadvertently pulling up looser bits. So the great experiment was interesting but ultimately showed that stippling wit
  11. I can't speak for earlier rules, but by 1979 when I passed out as a guard the only requirement on passenger trains was that there should be at least one vehicle with an internal handbrake in the set (which would also carry emergency tools etc), where it was was irrelevant (though 'vans' had a valve to operate the train brake in addition, the Guard was not authorised to use it). This also served as stowage cycles, rather awfully wheel chair bound passengers, Red Star parcels and Royal Mail. There was no mention of number of axles or such in the rules. In all the 5 coach sets I worked the 'van'
  12. After the last post, back to more mundane reality. Much as the nice clean shiny ballast, grey and black, looks good, it's somewhat unlikely a fair chunk of Soddingham would have been re-ballasted all in one go. Yesterday. With all the other projectlets stalled due to waiting for stuff I manned up and faced the one task I've been dreading - weathering the ballast. The effect I'm looking for is oldish, but cared for. At the Long Siding headshunt I've brushed on Railmatch Sleeper Grime with some very dilute black stippled on top get the oily bits. But that was basically just clay, so easy. I gues
  13. Yes. It's your railway, you can do it how you want. No one can tell you you are 'wrong' (unless you are claiming to model Kings Cross on August 5th 1959, about tea time). It's a hobby at the end of the day, just enjoy it.
  14. I've used Peco Twistlocks. Simplicity to install, no big holes or such - and easy to detach later if necessary, say for soldering. They work brilliantly with Peco points, which I guess shouldn't be a surprise, but are not really any good for my home made points since there's no over-centre spring a la Peco. I'm getting away with it, but a latching motor would be better there. The only slight concern I have is that the bodies of the solenoids are 'open' at the top, meaning ballast etc could drop down the rod hole into the motor. So far anyway, that hasn't happened.
  15. I'm hanging on in there for s/h (yep, cost! Especially the possible set of points) for a while after the card took a battering last lock-down, but at least I now know Hattons can do the biz. I entered the exciting world of O gauge at the last lockdown, the 'small diorama' for something to do just grewed a bit, after being OO and N. It's expensive, but you can make so much either from scratch or kits, or bits of kits, you get (I feel) an lot more bang for you buck - adding lights to signal kits etc is relatively easy, that sort of thing.. Always hide your credit card before visiting
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