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Geevor Clayton Loco

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    19
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Deep down underground in a Cornish tin mine.
  • Interests
    Mining, specially Cornish tin mining and narrow gauge.

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228 profile views
  1. they chassis are great but you do need to add a fair bit of weight to get them to run at all smoothley.
  2. The open ended bearings on the 4-4-0 look almost identical to the triang ones. Or is the loco in the picture just missing the end caps?
  3. I need a couple of smallish, short wheel base (oo gauge) 4 wheel motor bogies, and I was wondering if any one could tell me the rough dimensions of some of them (preferably cheapish ones). I was thinking maybe the rr Hornby Warship bogie would do but I kent find the dimensions of it. The Dapol/Hornby pug chassis dimensions would be usefull as well. Thanks GCL
  4. Really like the chilmark battery loco, great workAny idea what the big white box in the cab does? There's nothing like that in any battery locos I drive And the photography's great too, specially the last picture of the Chilmark loco Will be reading the thread with interest. 'Ansum
  5. I don’t think you can get them as spares as they are moulded on the model, but you can get turned stanchions from various companies including Phoenix paints https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/4-shr-25. Another option would be to make them yourself (see photo). The one on the left is just another bit of brass rod a 90° from the handrail using a blob of solder to represent the stanchion. You can get brass rod from lots of companies (Albion alloys is a good one to try) or eBay/Amazon, I think I used 1/32” dia. The one on the right is a bit of plastic rod drilled through the middle with a short bit of rod super glued on the side, and then the handrail is pushed through the hole, with a bit of super glue where you want the handrail, to hold it in place. A coat of paint makes them look round and its much cheaper than buying them. I expect other people will have better ideas but these seem to work for me.
  6. I really like they dingams, but I can't quite work out how the loop on the wagon comes up - does it have a bit of wire underneath the coupling that gets pulled down (by the magnet), pulling up the loop? Proper job
  7. Nice layout, particularly like the sentinel . Have you got a shop selling pasties? Need one of them! 'Ansum!
  8. Ok, thanks for the info - might have to stick ‘em on some of my locos
  9. Are the strips of metal on the blue Sentinel there to prevent buffer lock on tight corners?
  10. If the body is plastic you could try holding the running plate in hot water until it softens, and the bend it straight. Or you could try softening it with steam from a kettle or something.
  11. Thanks for the advice everyone, I will try and dismantle the chassis and clean and oil it to see if it gets any better.
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