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  1. Thanks for the continuing guidance and suggestions. I take the point about 'is it necessary with a compensated loco?'. Maybe not, but I find myself looking at all those extra wheels and given it's not difficult it seems a shame not to. I think I have a solution: the K's tender has no floor (you had to juggle 3 pinpoint axles between the sides as you glued/soldered it up!). It now will have a 60-thou plasticard dummy floor in order to secure the etched U-chassis which has inside bearings. However, where it is naturally captive it is too 'high' so
  2. Hmm, this echoes my foray into plungers. Airfix 14xx useless due to plungers and a scratchbuilt chassis I rebuilt and tried them but they prove very unreliable. Also they seem not to like steel tyres. So Gibson plungers and wheels were not a happy marriage! I am minded to go PB strip wipers with a small dimple (or my other experience of fine brass wire with small loop to tyre) - the minimum force, max pressure that Miss Prism speaks of...
  3. Am in the process of making a Wills etched tender chassis for my truly dreadful (hopefully not when I'm finished...) K's Q1 whitemetal kit I am rebuilding and detailing. It's therefore an inside bearing 'U' etch of typical format. My question is on tender pickups. I will be compensating the loco chassis. I've retrofitted various pickups to RTR tenders: brass or PB wire/strip on front and rear wheels. Given I have a virgin etched U here it has crossed my mind to use Gibson plungers (F&R only) - the appeal being an uninhindered chassis space (a
  4. Not that I think you need any encouragement Ray, but this was an effort I made in my Dad's garage when I was 14 (in the 1970s), using hacksaws, files, hand-drills and I even recall soldering using a Tilley with a soldering iron bit! Cheated with rolled plasticard boiler and firebox made from sheets (you can see it delaminating now). Smokebox door fashioned from car filler, and pin used as door hinge. Whistle and filler caps and vents fashioned from brass rod in electric drill. Two photos: one as originally made with coupling rods cut from tin can and terribly ba
  5. I've had similar issues with loco wheels - I tried to rewheel a 40-year old scratch built chassis (which had a dodgy mazak-centred Romford) with AG ones. The dodgy Romford(s) was/were very obvious as it is a longish-overhang 2-4-2T and it nodded/yawed royally! But try as I might - using a milling vice to push the AG wheels on slowly with a support to ensure the axle was square at the start - it did not work. Made sure the axle ends were burr-free and all of that. The vice would put them on the axle and it was all, obviously dead square/parallel, but as soon as I undid t
  6. Yes that was my immediate thought - although my Dublo/Wrenn ones are a bit thicker!
  7. Would anyone recommend that I put the effort in to compensate an 00 tender? If so, does it matter whether I fix the front or rear axle? Or shall I simply make sure I build it dead square and provide a small amount of float on the middle axle? FWIW, I do intend adding pickups to the front and rear wheels. The etch chassis I have (usual U-folded) is designed & supplied for 2mm axles straight through the etch. The engineer in me would prefer to put bearings in, but again is this overkill? If i did compensate it, would it be considere
  8. Ah thanks Kevin, so Mallard became Blacksmith or vice-versa?
  9. Could anyone point me in the right direction for details of the above? I've acquired a Blacksmith's models 00 kit, and pretty much all I know is that this diagram was converted from steam railmotors. I'm British Railways period and so I would need to model it in that era - did they actually last that long and if so what liveries/numbers did the run? JH Russell only shows them in GW era. If it's not suitable for 1948-on, I will happily move it on to someone who wants one of these seemingly quite rare beasts! Thanks.
  10. Great, thank you. Yes, good point re additional potential error with a knuckle - which usefully reminds me not to cut the rod etches until after I have used them on the chassis jig as axle spacing guides.
  11. I have a set of double-layer etched N/S rods for a 6-coupled loco to fabricate, in 00 gauge. I will have one (rear) fixed driven axle and intend to compensate the front two with hornblocks and a wire and tube typical arrangement bearing on the axles. Currently the rod etches are not cut into two rods (so you could solder them up as single solid rods if you had flangeless centres wheels). Could someone advise me whether it is best to articulate: By having a halved joint at the crankpin (and thus a 'dummy' rivet at the 'real' point of articulation), or, Usi
  12. Thanks all. I can appreciate I’m at risk of a Frankenchassis here so will reconsider my approach. As an aside the problem with the firebox etches is that there are holes in the frames through which the firebox is visible, right in line with CSB wire.
  13. Yes I understand that - which leads to my assertion that it's basically half of 2/3 unsprung loco weight on each sprung axle (let's assume it's equally balanced and equally spaced for simplicity). However, with a fixed axle there is no deflection, and it's this that is troubling me. So if I apply what I've just said to a 4-coupled sprung pair of axles with a rigid rear, the loco will attain a slightly nose down stance if the wheel centres are in line when unweighted. Intuitively I'd say that I need to actually drop the front and centre axle centres versus th
  14. Sorry if I'm being dense, but I can't actually find any calculations or worked examples for on 0-6-0 with one driven fixed axle. Unless, as I hinted, you treat it as an 0-4-0 with 2/3 the total unsprung weight split equally (or in whatever proportion you believe it is) on the two sprung axles?
  15. Do you have a link to the page with the explanation/calcs (not just images) - can't seem to find it.
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