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97xx

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  1. You don't seem to see/hear of these very often but I have a Revell Masterclass Professional. It is dual action and has the choice of top cup gravity feed, or swing this round through 180 deg and you can attach a bottle (suction) feed. Compressor fed. I spray acrylics exclusively these days. I like the water-based process. The only downside appears to be the propensity for the acrylic to clog/dry out. What tends to happen is that the airbrush slowly builds up a fine coating of paint - even though I only use the acrylic thinner (which is propanol I think). However, it's d
  2. Thanks all. @giz Yes I did wonder that re timing. That's a bit annoying as it's currently the Frankenliveried Lima RB which has serif lettering, and LMS and BR Roundel and 'Dining Car' and I really wanted to B&C it. I think I may choose to flex reality as I'd like a go at airbrushing the dual-colour livery on something reasonably inexpensive/expendable.
  3. Could someone clear up for me whether the "blood & custard" livery used black/GOLD lining or black/YELLOW lining? If gold, 'metallic' or 'old' gold? Similarly, was carriage side numbering and labelling in 'metallic gold' or 'old gold' or 'yellow' or straw'? I'm modelling a BR(W) RB Diag.24 Mk.1 and am a bit confused by the range of transfers available. Two very old Mainline BR(W) SK/BSKs I have are certainly 'gold' lined and texted - however I wouldn't assume them to be accurate. Thanks.
  4. UPDATE: yes, it was a failed blanking plug. Replaced with the 'new version' - marked 'Class 52' but sold as for 22 and 52. A vastly simpler board which seems only to sense polarity and switch some stuff on and off. Both shown below - 'new version' (grey background) picture taken from DCC Supplies website, Product Code: 115600 in case you are looking. You'll note the new version has two switches on it. I tried them briefly and unless they control the cab lights (Which I didn't have connected at that moment), it's not clear what they do. Both left in the
  5. Just embarked on converting some recent purchases - a Dapol Class 22 and a Bachmann Autocoach, both of which have NEM pockets. What I discovered was that a cranked HD coupling fits perfectly into each/either and is automatically at exactly the correct height. All that is needed is to cut the boss end off and square the end before sliding into the pocket. The only minor fettle is to file/cut a small groove in the top front edge of the NEM pocket as the upwards crank has a small strengthening rib and unless you create a corresponding slot the coupling will be
  6. Definitely neither of those - it is in mint condition in original packaging. On dismantling one of the faulty plungers the spring had per above clearly lost its temper, and I definitely had a very wobbly driver which in spite of best endeavours with mill vice and so on would not square up. Another plunger case was simply so loose it kept disengaging from the contact strip. Anyway, to avoid further embarrassment, perhaps I was over-zealous in my condemnation. However, all said it crawls across points at cogging speed without any faltering. Very pleased and it
  7. I would concede it ran OK when I got it and I have fond memories of it being my first purchase of the 'super detail' era - it did indeed look and feel 'fantastic' then. The plungers were quite quickly a bit iffy. I think you've been lucky to have two that work 'perfectly'! Here it is in what must have been late 1970s... It looks as though I may have erroneously applied a running number to the bufferbeam back then!
  8. I've removed the 'positive' side plungers and replaced with 0.3mm PB wire. Aside some of the plungers just not working, with Romfords/Markits they occasionally bridged the insulator between tyre and centre on certain corners. The original Airfix wheels, aside having plastic centres had deep tyre backs and so the centre of the plunger is not ideal. Anyway good enough now to actually use it.
  9. You beat me to it - looked at one of them and the spring was shot as it had been heat treated - I could tell by the way the coils had compressed fully and set that way. Even after a remag, the motor will draw 300mA and given it was highly likely that only one wheel was ever in contact with the rails that would do it! I am definitely going to replace them - useless design, poorly implemented.
  10. Yes they certainly are. I've never had much joy with plungers - this being the first example from 40 years' ago, and the second being trying to use them on a brass chassis of my own, where I reverted to springs. People do seem to be good with them and my assumption is that they are most likely to be successful where the sideplay is very limited. My 14xx was markedly improved in pickup when I initially added nylon washers to limit the sideplay - they must have designed it to endure 6" curves with that sideplay on such a short wheelbase...
  11. Thought I'd share this regarding getting the truly dreadful 14xx to work without a complete chassis replacement. I don't need to recount how bad these models are. The wheelset was pretty clearly eccentric on mine also. However, the body is quite reasonable and I was reluctant to bin it, but equally was unsure that it warranted the expense of a High Level or Comet chassis. The good news seemed to be that the axles are 1/8" so the motor gear is transferable. What I have done in essence is to 'reverse' the Airfix design which has: Massive pl
  12. I have the above on DC and although it runs fine, all the lighting has failed completely. Am I correct that this is a known issue, and may be solved by a 'new version' blanking plug/board? My blanking board as no switches on it - the 'new version' does - and so what do they do as my instruction sheet does not reference them? Thanks.
  13. Ah, good point re pony/bogies and cylinders. Mind you, maybe not such an issue on a 2-10-0 as the pony appears far enough forward? Has someone got one?
  14. I have a hankering to make a 9F, and fancy the DJH Crosti. I see it's labelled as 30" min radius, which I wasn't surprised by but put me off as I need 24". Then I spotted that pretty much all their models are 30" minimum. I've just built a Finecast Q1 compensated chassis that handles 21" without problem (so 24" is assured) so am now curious as to why the DJH are 30" minimum?
  15. Wise words. Drills and thin material are generally to be avoided as you will tend to get a triangular hole. In bigger sizes you can grind the bits to have a 'lip and spur' which means that the central spur centres and then the lips cut a circle before the body of the drill removes material. However, impossible to grind below about 3-4mm. Many wood drills are ground this way and you can use these in brass or N/S sheet if they're reasonable quality.
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