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97xx

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  1. Actually John, I think I would machine them up myself - I've got the equipment and the materials. I'd be inclined to use the Airfix 5-pole motor as I think it's well made and a smooth runner. Ideally it wants a smallish Mashima but not sure again I want to justify £30 on that on top. I'm simply not fitting some Chinese rubbish if I'm burning my hours on the job!
  2. BTW, thanks to all for the other pointers - not sure it justifies a bespoke chassis, but you mat have whetted my appetite...
  3. There is a small single leaf spring that rubs on the trailing axle, and I gave it a little more lift to improve balance and encourage more reliable pickup from the untyred axle up front.
  4. I don't suppose it's worth trying clear bathroom silicone sealant? I only suggest as it can be smoothed with a wet finger before it goes off - possible on a wheel powered in a cradle etc...?
  5. Managed to get my elderly 14xx to run fairly well after requartering and cleaning all the 1980s gunge from the chassis. I was going to remove the tyres - can someone tell me if there is a groove (it appears not)? Aside that the wheels are not square to axles, despite best endeavours with milling vices and suchlike to square them up - they just seem to spring back untrue. I happen to have some Alan Gibson drivers available and wonder if it's worth swapping the originals out? Second question: is the gear wheel a press fit on the axle? EDIT: should have added that I have added 1mm nylon washers to each driven axle to reduce the enormous sideplay. This seems to have improved running, although is getting close to a disadvantage given the wobble... Thanks.
  6. In my return to RM, I came across a pair of Airfix B-set coaches. Not the pinnacle of fidelity I must admit, looking at what is available RTR now. However, not to be totally outdone I have attempted to do a little detailing. Apologies to those who really know what they are talking about and doing, but I limited my adjustments to: Close coupling but admittedly retaining the incorrect bow end bufferbeams here plus 'small' buffers Milling off brake end same and replacing with flat beams plus correct pattern buffers Adding the frame strengthener to bogies between axleboxes Milling off vac cylinders and battery boxes and replacing with (slightly) more realistic and correctly positioned ones Fabricating some approximate V-hangers from microstrip Renumbering one from W 6894 W to 6895, the stablemate I believe it was mated with on the Higham Branch (?) Adding bars to guard's van windows Painting innards in 'first' and 'second' colours, plus 'wood' panelling Adding First and No Smoking to windows replacing wheelset with metal-tyred Added guard's steps (differnet I know but that was all I had...) P.S. I don't think the Collett 7' bogies had steps for the double-doored brake end? A bit of light weathering Oh, and Dublo couplings! I admit I did not go as far as to remove the errant guard's window - as that means a complete repaint. And then really need to re-glaze... I did want to add brake blocks but struggled to find any (white metal or brass etches) that were going to work without major bogie redesign plus the need to install pinpoint bearings to keep axles precisely centred (and off of blocks). All said, an amateur at work, but hopefully look a bit more presentable. Not sure many will be that interested in these old models now, but have had very positive comments on my other efforts so happy to share my misdemeanours!
  7. You are spot on. The whole experience was like walking on eggshells, and the classic one of a supplier doing you a favour by selling you something. When you ask if you've got through to Markits on your first interaction and they respond "I'm afraid it is" it does somewhat set the scene.
  8. I understand your point Darius, but for the fact that he openly offered me lots of options when I spoke to him. As you can see my base list was one I had listed part numbers and so on. If he'd said just give me parts you want from my list I would not have had any reason to extend the conversation.
  9. I'm new back to RM, tried to do my best, was patient and polite, but have been told in no uncertain terms that I'm not welcome. If anyone knows him and has any influence perhaps he can be persuaded to be a little more accommodating. Oh, and 'let' me buy from him...
  10. Fair enough - here it is... I'm trying to rebuild a Q1, and rang Markits on 1st May to ask for advice around wheelsets, gears, loco, tender and chassis details. Following that I sent an email itemising what I thought I needed, plus requests for advice as to other details that the supplier indicated might be available but weren't in the price list online. I did my best to itemise part numbers for what I thought I needed. So my request was: "Thanks very much for your help today re motors - Scalelink shut up shop at 4pm at the mo, but managed to order a Mashima 1628 straight off of the website. So, looks like I will need the following. Hope you don’t mind a bit of a wish list, but if you could (a) price up and (b) suggest any alternatives/additions/corrections I will consider them. Full loco wheelset: wheels NS tyred (half and half), crankpins, rods, axles, nut covers? Tender wheelset, inside bearing as discussed, prefer NS tyres - is that BFB14BNS? Gearbox MM-3L-2338 or would you go 46:1? Flywheel MFLYdL12-2DL Safety valves: M4SftyV11 Handbrake: M4HBtb Buffers: M4BufLocoSR (loco and tender) Ladders for loco front, tender side F&R, and tender rear (M4StepsTbrR?) Tender filler(s), vent? You mentioned mech lubricator? Vac pipes? Any other suggestions?" I heard nothing for two weeks, so dropped an email asking about progress, having been told how busy he was when I first spoke. Nothing back. Rang again today and had a pretty obtuse conversation where it was clearly all my fault that I had sent the enquiry by email. My fault that the original email didn't say Q1 in the title (even though I sent it after he and I spoke, plus the bits are pretty obviously Bulleid). After much ado, he finds the email, plus the follow up. And agrees to price the list up. After 5 mins I get this email: "I have now had another look at your order and realised that apart from the Water Tank Lid , no further action was taken because the computer does not like just an email address… we have lots of xxx's……No postal address and no phone number…you didn’t seem very keen on parting with either.…sadly , particularly now we do not have time to play ping-pong with Estimates which might or might not turn into orders, which in turn delay our rother customers who are already champing at the bit for THEIR actual orders. Because of that, I’m afraid Enquiries and Estimates get pushed to the back of the queue. I’m sorry but time is at a premium at the moment and the Company is also undergoing a major change in manufacturing which allows even less time." My phone number is on the bottom of every email. It was a simple "tell me how much all this is please" and the reason the list became extended was because HE offered additional parts not listed, as you can see. Cannot buy what I don't know price or availability of.
  11. Perhaps you need to see his email to me to grasp my irritation and offence after waiting three weeks - having been told how terribly busy he is.
  12. I've just had an extremely bad experience dealing with the proprietor of Markits, basically who cannot be bothered to price up a reasonably-sized order where I needed to seek advice. I will happily post details but to give the proprietor the benefit of the doubt, would like to see whether I am alone in experiencing this.
  13. In case you haven't followed my other thread on this, the Manor is restored with a custom-milled half-chassis for the distorted one, tender pickups fitted, and a minor detail and weather...
  14. Interesting discovery! First coach - worst runner where witness marks show flanges have touched underframe - bogies removed after releasing body. Second coach - ditto to find a WASHER between bogie and underframe. Even on this one, there are witness marks at one end where flanges rub on body. China QC...
  15. So the answer is that the bogie pins are in fact free to turn BUT they are hot pressed over inside the coach. Just in case anyone else faces the same challenge - don't think just because the pins turn (suggesting that they are split and will withdraw), don't try to force them. Also, the easy re-fit is a ca. 1/4" 6BA cheesehead which will self-tap itself into the underframe hole plus the head suitably locates in the counterbore in the bogie. Very slightly loose fit in hole so bogie does have 1mm to/from play but can't see any issue with that.
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