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Mrs Durby

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Everything posted by Mrs Durby

  1. And thanks, Ian ! Most helpful. No great panic, I am unlikely to start that one this year . . .
  2. Thanks Mick. Not sure I really need to model anything too accurate in 2mm scale, but as the blades need to work, while the rodding doesn't, I can't make the 'bar' long enough to risk a short between the rails! Thanks again.
  3. Hi Mick, (Andy here), can I take it by 'Back Drive' you mean ensuring that the long blades' centres move clear of the flangeways? Here's what I've made of it so far...
  4. Hello Ian, Detection I don't think so. The signal wires are running down the LHS, not the right, and I think the detection is done on that side. If so, that explains what I think is rodding from the middle of the FPL cover plate, heading to the left but difficult to see owing to the tree shadow. My guess - and as this was c.1947 and now long gone - is that it might be to help move the long blades of the long point, which is probably at least a C10... Fwiw, I am fairly convinced there were only 2 sets of rodding running down that RHS as far as that point and if so, that sug
  5. Thanks Paul - that makes considerable sense about Rule 39(a) as you observed. The Lightmoor book on the Taunton - Barnstaple line is an excellent publication and a quality follow up to Volume 1 (although there is a minor error on one of the signalbox diagrams - presumably incorrectly copied from the SRS original). And as you say a number of crossing loops were very thoughtfully altered/provided on the Barnstaple and Minehead branches in the 1930s - showing taht someone in the GWR was well aware of the impact of the Block regulations on train crossing movements on sing
  6. Oxford is your friend wrt vehicles; although they don't do the Austin K2 (they came from w/m kits, as did the Morris staff vehicle), they now do several excellent alternatives, including a (smaller) Morris staff car, while EFE provided the bus which was merely repainted. (Generally speaking, requisitioned buses were not repainted in camouflage when used by the RASC but a few were and I chose to use one as it helped define the WW2 atmosphere I wanted to create. Brown coaches and white roofs repainted dark grey (as per my photos) ought to help with that too, as did the 2250 class without
  7. Fwiw, the curve immediately in front of the half-timbered cottage looks to match the original, but beyond that it is much eased, and I note that two points in Dinmore's photos have plastic wing rails to the frogs and so are probably Tillig. I can understand the use of those as a) their code 83 rail is very similar to code 75 and so easy to knock 7thou. off the height over a couple of inches and they'll match well, while b) these larger radius Tillig points have flexible sleepering, so they can be bent slightly to fit a new design into largely existing geometry much more easily. The only pro
  8. All things considered, it seems to have survived its trials and tribulations (- so what exactly is a 'tribulation', anyway?), pretty well. I've seen worse damage after being dropped or trodden on at exhibitions, so yes; eminently restorable. What does never cease to amaze me is how some people insist upon putting totally wrong period additions and out-of-scale toys into carefully constructed scale and period-specific set pieces. Just goes to show how thoughtless some people are, doesn't it? Hey ho. No-one on here would do owt s' daft, would they? What a great find ! (Wish I'
  9. Hmmm. My reading of those 3 is that 1 & 2 had 15 windows each, all the same size but, assuming they were built on the same chassis, either the windows were a tad wider than No. 3; (really? Possible; they probably were all hand made in those days afaik), or the gap between each light was a bit wider. As far as I can tell from that angle, the end coach of the rake in original (i.e. 'for sale' condition), has 15 windows and a blank panel which, if replaced with another light, would make 16 windows. My money's on that being the soon-to-be ANDR No.3... As for 28" wheels,
  10. Indeed, but I managed to put a saw through the length of the windows (below the door-lock key housings), then fit the whole side back together. I then added a small sliver along the top edge before filing the end-topss round and replacing the beading with a bit of 10thou shaped to the same arc, glued then the top filed down to match. A 2mm drill through some 20thou. (doesn't split so easily at 10thou.), leaves you with a load of holes of 1mm radius, bits of which can be easily cut out to form the fillets in the corners. That took me rather longer than I wanted so I did another one, took my
  11. So is this 00 or N? (I'm guessing 00...) My guess is that the building is a dunny... Odd coincidence, but I'm doing the same location in N...
  12. Now we see some landscaping foam added. (Who would risk that on laid-and-ballasted 9mm track?) Anyone who knows the prototype site ought to recognize it now. Now to begin track-laying . . .
  13. Here's the woodwork done, all bar the edging/Backscene; to be added last...
  14. Still busy with the woodwork. Nearly done with that so more to upload soon... ;^D
  15. The close-up shows the counter-sunk screw heads painted with acrylic in an effort to prevent rusting. Once the glue's good and dry, alternate, or 2 in 3 screws (depending on various factors), are removed and the holes back-filled with glue and sawdust*. Where track is to be laid, the acrylic-painted screw-heads can also be filled with very little risk of rust breaking through and lifting the track. [*And yes, filler's quicker but very noticeable and also tends to fall out sooner or later. Glued sawdust doesn't.] More soon...
  16. No comments needed, really. Just watch it grow if you want to. You'll know it when it's done...
  17. Yes, compensation usually helps both electrical pick-up and haulage ability, as well as being a bit more forgiving of any track, erm, 'irregularities'? Which reminds me; have you had to rebuilt that double slip which was originally causing you hassle? With its long wheelbase and tender I guess the Aberdare will either kill or cure that issue !
  18. Shame about giving up with tender pick-ups. There are several ways round that if you find 'drivers only' pick-ups unreliable. Just ask... Did you hang the tender front on the loco draw-bar for extra weight?
  19. True. I had the problem of a slipping o/s crank on a Pannier. Resolved it by removing the offending, grinding a slight slot into the side of the axle (slitting disc; depth c. 0.4mm) then replaced it and drilled out the 'D'-shaped hole into a 0.9 Dia. hole, then tapered a bit of 1mm brass rod, tapped it firmly in and trimmed off the end. Seemed sensible to do the other 5 while I was at it so I did and it hasn't slipped in the 10+ years since ! Oh, and you don't need to make your own cranks if you can fettle Romford ones...
  20. How about a piece of c.1mm steel sheet and a pillar drill?
  21. There's tidy! O/f are great for hiding 'outboard' compensation beams for the un-geared axles... With your double-slip troubles, are you compensating?
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