samfieldhouse

I have a decoder wired to the track to run my OO9 'mine' track on my layout. Use a good quality decoder with overload protection - I use a guagemaster DCC94. Works for me; plus I can swap the locos between the DCC powered 'mine' and the DC shuttle powered quayside.

I've recently picked up a selection of GNR teak and LNWR coaches; from either Kernow or the very helpful Leigh at Collett's Models. I paid between £21 and £27 for them, some with lights and some without, but at that price it's hard to say no. The teak effect is very lovely and the LNWR looks good too. They are however very tight, they don't roll at all. Any tips on limbering them up?

Finally got around to running mine yesterday - gosh it really is very lovely. Almost hypnotic to watch. After about an hour of running in, it was able to pull its own coaches around the top loop of my layout. Running mine on a Loksound decoded and its ever so smooth.

I see the IOW train pack includes some IO coaches with the blue glazing - is there any mention of these being sold separately?

For me, I just can't stand DCC sound. I think it's awful. It makes me want to cut my ears off. I'd sooner burn my layout than put sound locos on it. When I hear them at exhibitions it's like an infinite chorus of tortured souls bemoaning their fate. Does that make my feelings clear or is additional hyperbole required?

Well I'm very happy and pleasantly surprised. The IOW Steam Railway replaced my wonky Calbourne. The replacement is not wonky or with gaps between the plate and the tanks. Additionally it's probably the best out of the box runner I've owned; smooth, quiet and super slow if needed. Really impressed. I'm (finally) very happy!

It's a shame the drive mechanism hasn't been modified. The issue with my original copy was the 6-wheel drive system. Gradient or no, it was just a pants runner. I removed the 6 wheel drive system and reduced it to 2 wheel drive, letting the coupling rods do their job, and it runs beautifully. To my mind, just massively over engineered. I'd really like Wagoner, but I have little faith in DJM. I'm just returning an O2 Calbourne as it's arrived with a warped running plate

My original J94 had that ridiculous 6 wheel drive mechanism that just caused it to grind to a halt. I removed it, returning it to 2 wheel drive and let the rods do their job - works fine.

Yes sadly mine does. I'll be at the IOW next weekend for an event so will return/replace it and see if it's the whole batch, or just a few that are affected. I'm not on board with it being prototypical - there is no gap between the tanks and the running plate on the real loco. The model is warped

Wagos changed my life they're superb. If you want something more plug-like I use XC60 connectors.

LBSC123, I've been following your Newtown layout with interest; I've spent many nights on at anchor there and it really is a lovely place. Here's my two penneth on photos - artistic merit is of course subjective, but I like taking these kinds of photos of my layout and this is how I took them. These were all shot on my iPhone 8 using one of three features; the telephoto camera, portrait mode and burst mode. I haven't used a tripod, any apps or done any post processing - these are literally how they came off my phone. Go looooow Hold your phone upside down to get the lens as close to the 'ground' as possible. I like this as it makes me feel small when I'm looking at the photo. Almost a 'real life' perspective. Use Portrait mode Portrait mode on an iPhone uses both lenses to take an amalgamated photo that forces perspective giving artistic background bokeh... basically faking a massive aperture. I quite like the effect for celebrating the subject on an interesting background. Use the telephoto 2x camera The iPhone 7 and above has two rear cameras, one of which has a fixed telephoto lens. Holding your phone a bit further back and using the 2x camera narrows the field of view and depth of field. Again I quite like the effect. You get more of the subject in shot. Burst Mode To 'capture the action' I use burst mode. An iPhone will focus lock on a moving subject. Track the loco and move your hand alongside it holding the shutter button down to nap pics of locos moving. Hope that's helpful. These aren't photos intended to show off a layout, but to capture 'scenes' I guess; little vignettes of running sessions.

Along with 6% of the male population of the UK, I'm severely colourblind so I find colour related discussion genuinely fascinating. I don't think any manufacturer or paint shop will ever win here as there are so many variables; geography, climate, screen and camera calibration, individual perception, chemical make up of paint...

It's mad isn't it, but it would seem so. A fundamentally sound (for beginners) system, let down by a stonky transformer.

Long time lurker and learner on here so thought it was time to pay back, register and make a helpful comment When I was googling "Bachmann Dynamis signal issues" I saw there were a few threads on here with people suffering. For no apparent reason my Dynamis suddenly had no signal a couple of weeks ago. Plugging my old Select in, everything worked fine so there was nothing wring with the track or locos. Much searching led me to read various things about wifi or LED interference with the IR signal. 'Dirty electricity' was another theory along with mobile phone interference. Finally I found a comment about the transformer failing and a few suggestions about changing the transformer and whilst at it, upgrading to higher amperage. I found a 16v 4.5a transformer on Amazon for £20 and - by some happy coincidence - it even has the same end fitting as the Bachmann one. Handy! Signal problems solved. 16v 4.5 a transformer on Amazon Hope this is helpful. There are of course proper DCC PSUs out there, but I'll see how this one goes.