Edervarg

Hi, I am looking for assistance or advice with respect to Piko A Track HO Turnouts using the Piko 55271 electric switches as right now I am of the view that many Piko 55271 switches for turnouts are defective. I have a layout that is 100% Piko track on Woodlands Track Foam. It has 8 turnouts of various models connected via a Digikeijs DR4018 to my Z21 with Piko 55271 electric switches. 50% of the turnouts work fine without a problem. But 4 turnouts gave me an intermittent bug when switching. Sometimes when switching the closure rails seem to bounce and then stay in the middle causing a derailment. It doesn’t happen all the time, probably 1 in 10. Also seems more prevalent when the turnout has been in a single state (so not switched) for a while. The specific turnout models are a 55220, 55221 and a 55223. A photo of the problem state is below. So in trying to resolve this I have made sure that the DR4018 has external power and that the wires to the switches are heavy enough gauge that there is no current loss. I have made sure that the turnouts operate freely with no stiffness when used manually. I have also gone through an extensive test program of using various switches (I purchased extra new ones) with different turnout combinations both on the track foam and directly onto the baseboard. What I have found is that the 55271 switches have different numbers of the base, I assume they are version numbers (see pic). During my testing I find that SM1.0 has a high failure rate. The SM2.1 I have one that works fine and one that fails. The SM2.2 all work fine. I have tried emailing the Piko “hotline” email address with all the above information but got no response for some 3 weeks. The response I finally got was to return the defective switches to my local dealer - I live in Singapore so most switches purchased online and the local dealer also is not being helpful. Piko didn’t even provide any advice on the SM versions and what are the differences. My question to any folks out there who have Piko A track and 55271 electric switches - are you having problems like above? If so how have you solved them?

Hi, Thank you to all for input. I am continuing with this challenge. I have upgraded all wiring. I have carried out multiple comprehensive tests of different switches, different turnouts, different wiring and found that there are different versions; SM1.0, SM2.0, SM2.1 and SM2.2 on the bottom of the Piko electric switches. See Pic. All the 2.2 that I have work fine no problem, SM1.0 nearly all fail at least 1 in 20 switch commands, SM2.0 and 2.1 most are ok with 1 or two faults. Problem is most of the electric switches provided by my local dealer are SM1.0 - I have 10 of them. I have reached out to the Piko DE "hotline" email address and after 3 weeks (not really a hotline) and multiple emails asking for advice or assistance I got a single line response to "talk to my local dealer". I am in Singapore - the local dealer has provided no help or refund. So my question to all is how can I find other Piko HO track users to see if anyone is encountering similar problems.

Hi, I am a relative newbie so pls bear with me. I have been looking for a Christmas Themed Locomotive and Wagons to add to my winter diorama with a decoder that will run with my Roco Z21. Preference would be HO but would live with OO which I understand will run on my Piko track. Looking for Christmassy and happy to add flashing lights etc if needed. I only seem to find super cheap starter sets which are not suitable for a decoder. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. Nick

Here is a pic of the turnout when it fails.

So I am using a digikeijs DR4018 decoder, I have checked the setup and al seems correct. 5 out of 8 turnouts are working fine. Its just 3 that are causing problems. I have cheeped for manual stiffness and manually it seems fine. It looks like when it screws up the solenoid just doesn't throw far enough.

Hi, I am using Piko HO Tracks for my layout I have 8 turnouts all connected to my Z21 with Piko 55271 electric switches. Most turnouts work fine without a problem. But 3 particular turnouts give me an intermittent bug when switching. Sometimes when switching the closure rails seem to bounce and then stay in the middle causing a derailment. It doesn’t happen all the time, probably 1 in 8. Also seems more prevalent when the turnout has been in a single state (so not switched) for a while. The specific turnouts are a 55220, 55221 and a 55223. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance. Nick

Thank you all for your input.

Hi, I am a newbie to this forum and relatively new to Model Railways. I am building out a mid sized Christmas Diorama in HO scale to go under our Christmas Tree. I have a Z21, 3 x Digikeijis DR 4018 - 2 for turnouts and 1 for various LEDs. I also have a DR4088RB. I understand track voltage from Z21 is 16v AC (I think), I also have a couple of 12v 4Amp DC adapters I am using for lights. The local supplier who provided some of the kit advised and sold me a Roco power supply 16v 50VA which he said I should be using for multiple lights and as the power to the Digikeijis devices. So my questions are why use DC vs AC and what are the pros and cons? Also I read somewhere that best to be driving LEDs at 12v (when rated for same, most purchased 12-18v) rather than higher as they burn out faster. I have searched the internet but find the discussions confusing and often not relevant. Any advice please??