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R300AML

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  1. I have now succeeded in getting the loco to move both ways and the lights toggle on and off as well. I connected the prodigy to the main track, I only have two pairs of dropper wires connected to the layout, as it showed a short circuit, so I disconnected all wires from the main bus. It is connected with 2-core lighting flex to the main bus, which is 2.5 solid core cable, removed from it's outer sheath, and stripped in various places for droppers to be connected. on booting up the prodigy, even with no loco on track, it shows OVLD which is overload. How can this be, when there is no short, and only two pairs of droppers which are exactly midway around the main line track? I am new to DCC, but this is really upsetting me, and DC is becoming ever more inviting so if you can help solve the problem I may continue with DCC although I am only using it for loco control .
  2. How do you delete all the numbers in the handset, I have so many I can't get anything to work! I just want to clear it and go back to DC it's much simpler, and no geeky problems to sort like with DCC
  3. Am I doing something stupidly wrong here? The prog track reads the address as 0033 When I put 0033 into the main track, the loco does not run - why?
  4. My gaugemaster will not read my loco's address - what can I do? the loco does move along the prog track a little bit, which I assume means the decoder is working? I just cn't get it to run on the main track, and should the main track always say main track Prog? I can't seem to get the main track to just say main track. (Gaugemaster Prodigy advance)
  5. Is there a way to reset the decoder with a Prodigy advance? I think I may have deleted it's address in some way
  6. On my Gaugemaster prodigy advance I have Prog track READ, prog track Prog9 and main track Prog9. What do these mean? any help would be greatly appreciated
  7. Same problem for me too - How do you actually reset the decoder? I'm new to DCC and I'm lost to know the process
  8. Thanks Nigel, I was testing every bit of track as I went along, but it was on DC, and then I connected all the droppers afterwards, and somehow, I caused a short. I am now using 2 separate bits of track, one for program and one as the main track to try things out. I have cut all the droppers off the bus wiring and will connect and test each pair as I go. Thanks for the reply, no doubt I'll be in touch again soon. Alan
  9. I am new to DCC, I have a layout which was wired for DCC with autofrogs on 8 points. However, when I tried to setup a new decoder in a DCC Ready farish diesel, I could not get it to work, although the decoder was moving the loco slightly when the control unit was talking to it so it seems that some data was going to it but still no joy on the main track. I then realised there was a short on the main track, although I checked every connection as I went along. I then installed a separate piece of track to act as the main track, but still nothing. After 2 days of trying I decided to run DC instead, as I don't understand starting voltage, acc, dec, etc. So i ran the diesel on DC and it works perfectly, as I sorted the short out. My questions are: Could I have damaged the autofrogs by leaving them connected while running DC, and could the short circuit have damaged the decoder in the diesel, as I still now want to get help to run DCC, as the Prodigy 2 I have cost a packet and I won't get much for it on ebay, and it may be damaged by the short as I did not realise it only cuts out for 2 seconds, and i left it on for about 15 minutes, and the base unit got very hot, so I switched it off. tried it later with another loco from ebay fitted with a decoder, and it runs okay. Please help, as I'm lost in a blur of brain fade at the moment.
  10. I am building a layout, and I am testing track and connections with a DC supply and controller.I have a gaugemaster prodigy, but I prefer to leave it until the layout is complete. My question is, can I test with DC whilst wiring for DCC, and can I connect an autofrog up and test it with DC?
  11. Oh Nigel, Sorry mate, I had a bit of brain fade at 7 am this morning- I was testing the track I fitted last night and I put the loco on the track facing the same way both times so of course it was going backwards! I only had to turn the loco around and I forgot that the loco comes down the inside track and up the outside track so all is well, but thanks for your quick reply, I was about to delete this post, but you've given me some valuable info anyway. Suppose I should be testing with DCC, it may save some confusion in the future but the layout is nowhere near finished, so I thought DC was okay for now. Really do appreciate your support though, cheers for now, Alan
  12. I am building a Helix (See Helix post) the Layout has two different level tracks above the main base track work, each level is reached by a helix, and both helixes will be on the same track work so locos can run around both levels before returning to their start point.My problem is this: The top track goes around three sides of the layout and returns via a return bend at the end of the run. To save buying a polarity reverser, I ran the track back to the helix point, thereby making two tracks around the top of the layout, one outward bound and then the return track is the inbound. When I tested the track, I had a short circuit, as the inner rail of the outside track was positive, and because the track returns and runs back, the outside rail of the inner track needs to be positive as well,as it is all one piece of track returning on itself, so I changed over the wiring and problem solved ...... or NOT? whilst testing the helix, as I built each layer, I noticed that the outside track worked fine, the loco going forwards, but the inside track, the loco went backwards on the forwards setting, because I connected the helix up to match the wiring of the top track with it's return track. Do I need an auto reverse module ? I have 3 Gaugemaster modules so do I wire one in maybe at the top of the helix, with isolating track joiners to overcome this problem? I am testing the layout with DC, or do decoders in the locos sense a polarity change themselves?
  13. As David C broad says, I have found out the copper tape is very fragile- I soldered some wires onto it okay, but then I pulled one accidentally, and .......Oh well, another bit of tape and the solder gun will fix it, i only wanted the solder where the wires connect to it, but problem solved, I've ordered some mini cable ties to fit round the posts as restraining clips, that should do it. I should add that the helix is 8 levels high, at around 350mm up from the main track level, so tape seemed a neater way of connecting the droppers, as I prefer solder joints to the scotch lock connectors as they are bulky as well. I will try to take some pics and post them as it progresses.
  14. Thanks to all of you, some interesting points raised, and Nigel, I will only be using the tape up the posts, the main bus wiring will come up in the centre of the helix at entry level, i have installed the tape up all 4 posts, and the bus wires will be soldered at the base level. tried to import a photo, but so far ti's the wrong format, i'll try again and post it . thanks again to everyone, it's great to get or give support to fellow modellers.
  15. I am new to DCC and I am building a helix from 5mm ply with 3/4" x 1/14" wood posts supporting the track base. So far it is looking good, my question is, can I use copper tape (as used on slot car tracks) for the bus risers up the insides of the wood posts to connect the track dropper wires to, or could it interfere with the command signals to the locos as the tape is not insulated and is approx 1" apart vertically. it just seems a neat way of installing the rising bus feeds. Appreciate any help you give me on this one thanks, Alan
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