DGO

Whilst there are several booklets, for conifers in particular YouTube is very good, Luke Towan and Boomer Diorama have both done excellent videos showing how they make beautifully detailed trees and there are several others out there. For broadleaf trees there are a number of videos but Kathy Millat did an excellent video creating one tree in 4 seasons. I appreciate these are videos not books but they are a. free and b. allow you to see the process far more clearly than in most books

The BOB is a mystery but perhaps because it's only a short link to Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen it's not popular enough for mass market, the lack of WAB is easy to explain, it's not meter gauge (only 800mm) and mostly it runs at a 20% gradient which means you need to have your turnouts complete with the central rack rail and that whilst possible gets expensive very quickly it also means that over even a short distance the track climbs very quickly. I'm going to have a go at building the Modern Wengen station since that is pretty much level over the platforms along with a feed in and out

This is used in theatre and if I recall correctly is called using flats. it allows you to give the appearance of significant depth in a very short distance, low relief by comparison typically uses a distorted perspective effect on a 3D structure, the two techniques can be combined so you go from true 3d in the foreground to low relief to flats to a often hazy backdrop of sky

The previous single car train was longer, but the tight turns on the road up to winteregg along with the removal of the old funicular track meant that its replacement now articulates in the middle. Many of the updated narrow gauge trains are being put in to improve disabled access, Not sure if that is the case here or if the old ones had just worn out

Sort of/Maybe, to create a 3D object you need lots of points of data, a photograph is a flat view from one direction, but what you can do is use AI to effectively generate an approximation, but to do so requires you to teach the AI what you are after, thus people are common so it's relatively easy to create a good/realistic looking human using AI or an Egyptian Pyramid or a loaf of bread, but tell it to create a hybrid between a Grey Alien and a Oriental Human and chances are you will just get an oriental human with grey skin

There's still some work to do with AI for image generation but if one uses negative constraints to eliminate the more obvious AI aberrations such as six or more fingers per hand and odd looking eyes then the results can be remarkably good for the small amount of time it takes. Potentially as a source of ideas for scenery it might be very effective the image here was created by simply asking for a village bakery, with lots of baked goods on display in the window, less than one minute of processing got me this, with a tiny bit of effort one could easily take the window on the left and turn it into a display behind a model shop window

Typically with post processing DXF files different layers (or frequently different colours) are used to differentiate different types of cut. As an example Red used for outline cuts around objects Blue used to etch a surface Green used to cut holes within objects When the dxf file is processed the etching is often done first, then any cutouts/holes and finally the outline Sometimes especially with very small parts it's better to not fully cut out the outlines, typically with a large laser the bed allows debris to fall through, if your very small parts fall through they will be lost forever

Generally most places will want DXF files, in theory you could probably use G Code but if the G Code is wrong you could be looking at an expensive machine to repair

costs will depend entirely on how much work you have already done, if you have decent accurate 2d drawings the costs will be a lot less than getting someone else to do the reserch first before doing the modeling , you also need someone who can take the design and turn it into something that will look in scale and 3d print, I've been 3D CAD modelling for 30 years now feel free to PM me

It's almost certainly data stored in the image, most commonly found in pictures taken via mobile phone or tablet, edit it in a photo editing package and when you safe as a .jpg do not save the EXIF Data, it should then import correctly

To be fair many 3D printers take at least 48 hours for large models, A lot depends on the size of the print and the resolution as well as what material, large 3D printers may load up multiple prints in a single printer, this takes time to set up, using the maximum volume for each print run, then they may need to remove "sprues" or other post processing work . Pricing so far as I am concerned will be related to the size of a print, If someone comes to me with just a couple of 00 scale figures that need printing and they are in no hurry then I will add them to the next print run and the price will be low (materials wise a 00 scale figure in resin is only a few pennies) on the other hand if they want the print ASAP then that means making a special print run. clean up and then sending out by courier and the cost will be much much higher. If you purchase STL's then there will normally be restrictions such as printing for yourself only and not selling the prints to others This can potentially be difficult if you want a third party to print for you.

I live just half a dozen miles from Hurst Castle, the wall collapse was I'm afraid English Heritage ignoring repeated warnings that the wall at that end of the castle had been undermined by wave action and doing nothing to protect it, they were apparently too busy working on the other wing of the castle to even check it out, a lot of locals are very angry about this... The little diorama looks pretty good to me though obviously the stone wall needs work David

That is very helpful, page 341 of Southern Nouveau suggests 4' 5 2/8" between centers for the end panels with a poster board sized as 4 Sheet D.C, at 5'5" tall and 3'9" wide Page 61 same book By the way I think the doors are slightly out, the ones in your drawing appear to have a concrete lintel above the doors, however as built at New Milton no such lintel can be seen, this is possibly due to the early nature of the New Milton construction circa 1930 and is certainly unusual, but a few other pictures in the above book appear to show doors without lintels so it was not unique, perhaps lintels were a modification when SR took over production ?

So my copy of Southern Nouveau arrived yesterday and there are several very similar designs on pages 346-347 the one at the bottom of 346 is longer by one 3'4" panel but narrower by the same amount however it has an identical chimney and a similar roof angle with the ends and roof clad in corrugated asbestos, but they have the same longer end panels and theres even one at the top of 347 with a silmilarly sized poster area, given the New Milton one seems to have been installed prior to 1931 it must have been a fairly early example. Thanks to everyone for their help. I may look at creating a set of 3D parts to enable pre fabricated buildings of this sort at 00 scale, I think I only need 2 3'4" panels (one with a window) a double and single door, mid post and corner post to be able to produce the walls plus a selection of top and bottom of wall beams which should be easily doable, if I do these then addin the extra bits needed for the larger goods shed would only add another half dozen or so parts if anyone here thinks that worthwhile ?

Quite possibly especially if they purchased a pre supported model from someone else

None the less it seems to occur with some people, I think it's either because they have a void inside the 3d model where the resin is just not cured OR in some way the resin is not properly cured and somehow pools up. I don't know I've never had such issues because I only do thin walled models, but there are a number of examples out there purporting to show solid models that have cracked open at some point after printing (days or even weeks later) and liquid resin has leaked out, there are sufficient reports of this occuring for me to be inclined to believe it does occur, so if we accept that this occurs we then have to work out what is happening that causes it to occur, the liquid resin leaking out would suggest incorrect curing, so the only thing that makes any sense to me is the hypothysis that the outside properly cured resin has shrunk more than the inside creating significant internal pressure buildup, or the alternative is that there is a chemical reaction going on between cured and uncured resin that causes a pressure buildup,if you can suggest an alternative explanation that fits the evidence I am all ears. David

For what it's worth I've found thin walls that are not a consistant thickness seem to warp the most, in my case it was a "timber clad wall with internal framework" not that dissimilar to the sides of those wagons, I think that as the resin cures it actually adds stresses to the print, thicker walls have sufficient strength but with thin walls theres no internal strength so they warp, I think this occurs because the shrinkage that happens during curing is not uniform with the thicker frame areas shrinking the tiniest bit more. A few things seem to help, firstly do not over cure the resin the more you cure the greater the shrinkage, secondly make sure you have some internal bracing, a small amount of curve can be removed by warming up the part removing the curve and allowing it to set, but you need to control how it sets, in my case I could put the flat walls between a couple of heavy books for a week and they were fine, but those wagons will be harder to do that with. A number of people have issues with water washable with solid thick prints, the resin in the middle never fully cures and it eventually results in a big split and leaking resin, now this is only a guess but I believe the shrinkage of the cured resin compresses the incompressible liquid resin inside whichj again causes stresses that result in fractures in the resin days or even weeks after the printing In theory for the best curing you would go with a less opaque resin as that allows the UV light to pass through more easily, however for high detail prints a black or dark (blue or grey) is best as this allows less light bleed to occur giving crisper details. David

Looking at those outer panels and after a trip to the station I am pretty sure that there are multiple posters on each panel, probably local advertising rather than specifically railway, one I can just about read may well have been for the New Forest Show so given that I'm going to say those outer panels are narrower making the whole structure closer to 20 ft x 14 ft

Right now I think the ground to roofline distance was probably around 84 inches, the end panels look to be about 48 inches wide, the doors 30 inches and the two front panels one with window a little wider maybe 36 inches, 5 joining colums each 4 inches wide and 2 end columns slightly larger maybe 6 inches my original estimate from the 25 inch OS map was 25 ft wide +-18 inches, adding up the panels I get just under 22 ft so I think I will cycle up to the station and see if there are any traces left on the ground, I don't mind being out by a couple of inches, but I'd hate to be out by a couple of feet

Interesting, similar in style but not quite the same, I guess a different manufacturer

New Milton in hampshire, the building was still there in 1985 when I moved here but has since been replaced with lockable cycle boxes, I've added a picture of a gentleman about to go through the Station Masters door which shows a more detailed but smaller front view , the end closest to the main station building was from memory identical to the side nearest the camera, also from memory the back of the building had no windows or doors as it was up against a fairly steep embankment that is still covered in shrubery. One picture from inside the signal box suggests it was built prior to the cycle shed, I can tell you it wasn't there at the end of WW1 but it had been added by the 1950's (The OS 25 inch map from the 1930's indicates something being there not on previous maps) I think it was about 25ft wide and maybe 16ft deep from the OS Map give or take maybe 18 inches. My gut feeling is it went in between 1918 and 1931 so it's just possible it was added by the LSWR, New Milton is quite unusual, most of the station is pretty much as it was when built in 1886 save the missing signal box that went in 1967 when they also removed the sidings, save for some missing chimneys and one dormer window in the roof above the booking office, the structures on both platforms are remarkably close to being as built. I can also access all bar one end wall of the station with it being possible to photograph everything, the station masters house is currently empty with plans to turn it into a local museum, so taking pictures and measurements is not a problem. The only other thing I am looking for without success is a design for the corrugated iron clad goods shed added between 1930 and 1940. The only other similar one I've found so far is a picture of the one at Callington (roughly 45 ft x 18ft footprint) Historic England would call it a trackside goods shed with canopies for wagons and carts

Excellent, I was hopeful that would be the case, but without seeing the book in advance I figured someone here would be kind enough to answer one way or another and you have, so many thanks. David

I'm looking for drawings to help me recreate this type of prefabricated concrete store, before I go off and buy Southern Nouveau: And the Lineside, can anyone tell me if it contains drawings that might be suitable ? I can make a pretty good guess at sizes but if plans already exist that might be a waste of time. David

Interesting that the door is at the other end, also that they decided to put the New Milton one off the end of the platform, currently not a member of anything, my real passion is Wengen in Switzerland and I will be doing a Narrow Gauge rack railway layout, for there, but before I try creating that I thought I should start with something smaller (and a lot easier), Since New Milton has a bit of character, has much of its original buildings unaltered and it's just a short cycle from my front door I thought why not

Good spot, so basically the same as at Sway then Given that the station buildings were identical I think it fairly safe to assume that the tops of the signal boxes were all very similar, certainly the Sway and New Milton ones appear to be the same size