Heiter

You didn't tell me, suggest, hint, advise, question, the return of the model..?? I must have mis-read your comments then.

Somebody may well take you up on their interpretation of "green" Ian!

Now who's telling whom what to do..?? The model was not returned because I wanted the model weathered, can't abide ex-works/pristine, and that's why it wasn't returned. The model that I have operates like a dream but that's NO EXCUSE for Hornby's poor paint jobs. It's not as if Hornby are amateurs, is it!! Come-on, let's call a spade a spade and not a piece of agricultural equipment! Hornby have been very helpful and this is no reflection on our friends darn sarf...I hope.

Surely, the majority can't be wrong...it's insipid, FLAT, and nauseating!

Mine arrived yesterday and although it has had several hours running-in, and runs like a dream, the colour appears flat and a pale nauseating shade of green..?? That, of course, may have been artificial fluorescent lighting but I doubt it greatly as all of the other loco's would be subject to this also. To me, it's as though the paintwork has dulled and needs a "T-Cut" job!

Thank you Andrew, appreciated... Unfortunately I wouldn't trust that retailer in Steel City or the UK importer and will never deal with either ever again. I agree with you though in that I could really kick-off legally against both for the manner in which I was treated. I'll be very interested to see what the PSU from China is like when it arrives next week...good or bad, I'll advise accordingly for the benefit of all modellers.

After barely just over two years the *New* ESU ECoS 50210 PSU failed... 15v to 21v adjustable and rated 7amp 150w. A replacemrnt @ £82.00 + p+p seems excessively expensive. The ESU ECoS I use is a 50200 with the 50210 PSU...This (the PSU) was thought to be the cause of the fault...it wasn't because after all this time the fault still occurs! So much for the experts who couldn't rectify the problem of the 50200 and the 50210 ( Yes, I purchased a 50210 whilst the 50200 was, allegedly, returned to ESU) suddenly, without warning, returning to Speed-Step "0" and also changing direction whilst remaining at "0" zero speed-step. The experts couldn't rectify the same problem with *both/either* system(s) so the 50210 was returned (Many moons ago) for a refund...long story and, like a certain manufacturer...I ceased trusting that retailer too! The fault (Dead, No red light) may simply be a capacitor, a resistor, mosfet (Fuse is fine)...out of warranty so I opened the case... No obvious signs like scorching or burn marks and no popped Cap's and the mains-lead and plug-top fuse are fine. Looking on "Ali Express" I eventually found a 7amp .. 18v fixed .. 125w with full 12 month warranty, free return (if necessary) @ £15.65. Whilst I appreciate the cheap electronics-warnings, this item appears totally legitimate and the B's knees...I don't have anything to lose with Free Return if I'm not happy...it also does appear to be a quality product, direct from the factory. At the price and free-return, I have little to lose. I'm just wondering if anybody has a schematic or has knowledge of the ESU 15v-21v adjustable PSU C-B..??

Hornby 46211 expected in the morning... :-)

Brian, Accept a discount for the inconvenience to say the least. If you have a retailer-receipt then contact Bachmann Service Department for returns advice. If it's under Warranty and you opt for a return then remove the body and just send them the chassis but, although they're usually okay, tell them that you intend doing this! Now to the fault... Is there free movement of all the wheels, side to side..?? If there is then fine. Remove the long rod to (IIRC) the 3rd wheel (Each Side of Loco'). Are the wheels free of the long rod from the valve-gear on each side and do they now turn freely if slight power is applied... If the same fault persists then the fault is between the motor worm-gear and the small-toothed gear on the axle. Turn the loco' upside-down and remove the base plate to get at the wheels or, if you prefer, remove the body and work your way down. Quartering: The wheel to axle alignment should be 90 degrees, 12 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Best of luck...

Hiya Steve, The worm-gear cover comes with the chassis which is only available through Hornby. Have you contacted Hornby for replacement(s)...?? The only other option really is to make your own...quite easy really if you measure the gap at the top and bottom of each side/flap. It needs to be strong but don't forget to allow for the downward pressure each side on the crown-gear-axle (Double Gear or two different sized gears..the A4 was an issue as two different sizes and shape of was used). Do the top once you've done the two sides. The sides, if you're careful with a saw and/or file, will allow for this downward pressure to hold the Crown-Gear assembly in place...you don't want any sloppy up-down movement of the assembly between the worm and the axle-drive. Now the fun... ;-) You may probably know that a slight bend in the motor back-plate will endorse pressure against the back of the motor but you will also need to make and fix a bracket between the chassis and the top or top-front of the motor casing to create firm downward pressure..without this firm downward pressure it will again allow play between the worm-gear and crown-gears. Hornby really do need to improve on this motor-fitting arrangement as it's been causing issues for years! Hope it's been of some help... Good luck.. :-)

The Hornby Re-Built Patriot and Royal Scot models have some excellent qualities but watch for the metal fatigue of the chassis and any other metal parts. Slipping gears-mis-mesh can often be attributed to weakness around the Crown-Gear Assembly (or Mazak-Rot of the alloy chassis) directly below the brass worm of the motor. I have all of the Hornby BR Era models of both the "Royal Scot" and "Patriot" classes produced and it's been an unpleasant learning-curve with the Mazak-Rot affected models. I owe a great deal of thanks to all at Hornby, and I mean everybody that I have communicated with in various forms. I think they, and the wife, know how much I've spent!! ;-)) The motor-fixing design needs some slight modification...I say this because the worm-gear cover, although small, has to perform at least three functions. It is there to retain oil/grease splashes within the gear-area, the ear-flaps hold-down the axle of the Crown-Gear Assembly and the rear under-part of the worm-cover places pressure down on the motor front-bearing case. The worm-gear cover is, unfortunately, too weak for its purpose. Presently trying to *find* the time to renumber/rename all the Patriots (rebuilt and un-rebuilt) to the Welsh resorts that they were named after, and there are quite a few on the map! Well, I realised how much I like the three classes and realised just how many of the models I actually had, more than the Black 5 collection and there's at least sixteen of them. It certainly does appear to be a slow, smooth-running, loco' so what's stopping you..?? Cheers, Heiter :-)

My experience of coreless motors has left me a "Doubting Thomas", I'm afraid. Cheers... :-)

Thank you John... I think I'll avoid models with coreless motors until they become more reliable! Cheers...

Hi All... Anybody had/having issues with their N7 suddenly stopping due to motor issue(s)..? I had to return my 1st/last. Removing the body and turning the flywheel revived it for a while but it was intermittent so it went back, obviously! Two emails to "Oxford Rail" within the past month or tw didn't produce a diddly squat!! No excuse for ignorance. This is the 2nd model purchased new that's suffered with coreless motor issues (2nd was DJM 14xx broken wire within the motor-cap) and they aren't cheap motors in comparison to something like a 6-pole 15mm x 15mm which are brilliant for about £2.00 each or less. Cheers...

You pay for a Rolls Royce, you don't expect a mini! That said, I was more impressed with Hornby Black 5 (R8114) TTS decoder than a well-known decoder costing in excess of £80.00 more!! At the last count there were eight (!) whistles (R8114) and the sound wasn't too bad, especially through a Hi-Bass speaker...or two!