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Michael 0701

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  1. Thank you all very much for all your suggestions its appreciated
  2. I am not bothered about moving stock off the layout, quite used to it now, but I may have room to add a very long but narrow fiddle yard that will not have to be moved/lowered etc. I am confident about moving it, but I am also building a bar (its also my man cave/shed) so I plan to build the bar in such a manner that the layout rests on it and gas struts on the back of the struts to the underneath of the baseboard to allow for a slow lowering.... (did I mention I want to avoid over engineering this )
  3. Thank you both for your replies, both really helpful. DCB: yours hits the spot. I do need to be able to have dual use for the shed and I never thought of effectively hinging the layout the opposite way. I would modify it by not having the back legs but adding a shelf with a rebate, locating pins and suitcase catches..... I did massively over engineer the layout their is no twist in it, knowing it would be wall mounted for many years , I may be able to just use the support struts as legs.... Great work, thanks very much.
  4. Hello all. I have a 6'x4' baseboard which I have successfully had hinged on a wall for a few years. However recently moved house and the only space is in a shed which has 1.82m high walls (higher into the apex), if the baseboard is 1m off the ground (suitable viewing/working height) when its in the up position the top of the baseboard goes into the apex of the roof which means a loss of space inside (A). What I need to do is put the baseboard on a sliding rail with possibly an electric lift so in the down position (B) its a minimalist layout, just so long as their is clearance for hedges I can take the platform off for storage. What I don't want to do is over-engineer this or spend a massive amount of money on this. Has anyone ever seen this before?
  5. Hi all. Again thanks for your input and help. So I've had a stab and in conjunction with my current layout (above) will this do the trick?
  6. Again thank you for your helpful comments. I have finally got my head around adding a toggle switch between tracks 1 and 2 to control circuit 2 with controller 1 and not needing to alter the current insulating joiners locations. But I struggle to work out controlling 3 and 4 with say controller 2, without over-complicating it and running the risk of things going pop..... a rotary switch befuddles me. I sucked at electronics and the principles in school, I am more of a "big" engineer lol....
  7. Thank you all for your answers and advice, very informative and helpful. I have spent the evening reading around Cab Control on this site and Brian Lambert et al and I am still a little (quite) lost. My initial aim was to keep this as simple as possible but this seems to have gone a little off plan..... I fear I don't have the skills for this, I think a return to the drawing board may be in order.
  8. Good afternoon, new member and all that. I am not new to model railways but new to bigger than an oval and a siding….. I designed and built my rather space constricted 00 gauge railway (6'x4') to get as much movement and variety as I could, I am happy with the layout etc but I fear I have fallen down a bit of rabbit hole. I needed a new controller and settled on the Morley Vortrak Zero Ten Controller (the 4 track controller), it’s great, super smooth control and looks cool, very retro. But since I have found out as others on this forum have stated, off is not actually off but is a shade of grey….. So I have had to put insulators between the 4 track circuits marked on my drawing a & b (between the points connecting tracks 1 and 2) and at c and d (as decreed by Morley or there will be a plague of Locusts etc befalling me and my 5 year warranty). So unless I use my one very modern loco (pickups on the one bogie and even then it sometimes stalls) all my other older and slower locos stop dead on the cross over (unless I run them at full tilt and even then 90% won’t get over….) until the 00 gauge hand of God gives it a nudge (how realistic) Morley states one only needs to match the speed of the 2 controllers but as it isn’t a common return it’s never going to work (so why say it?) I have thought about putting an isolating switch on each circuit, but to move a loco say from circuit 1 to circuit 2 it would be: Stop loco, isolate circuits 1 and 2, change points, energise circuit 2, move loco, stop loco, change points, reenergise circuit 1. If I forget and change points without isolating, pop, if a loco fouls the points and possibly moves them, pop…. Have I dug myself a bit of a hole? Thank you in advance for any help but bear in mind I can’t solder to save mine or anyone else’s life….
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