PaulB85

Hi folks, Thought I would post in here as I'm having a similar problem. I'm using a Deltang Rx41 receiver with an E-Flite/Blade MLP4DSM transmitter (which I've previously bound successfully with the same receiver), at the moment I'm still working on the build so the receiver isn't inside a model. Here's what's happening: connect battery to receiver, wait for rapid LED flash power on transmitter with left stick pressed in, release stick one of two things is happening - either the receiver's rapid flash carries on indefinitely, or the LED immeditately goes off completely no binding achieved I've tried two different LiPo batteries for the receiver and charged them both fully. I've also put new batteries into the transmitter. None of this has changed the situation.

Thanks for the link! I've done a bit more research and I think Wiking, Herpa, and Kibri might cover most of what I'm after, so I'll probably go down that route 🙂.

Thanks for the info! It's not so much the working with metal as I do have access to a dremel and I've done that sort of work before (though of course plastic would be far easier) but between the fact I often like to paint my models in different colours from their default, and that quite often when working on them their original finish will become compromised anyway (chips and scuffs) , I feel like some type of repaint is inevitable and I've had a terrible time of painting diecast bodies in the past. It's just something I'd rather avoid. I'm open to 3d printing but I don't have a 3d printer and am unlikely to get one any time soon. I'm aware there are print services out there but in the past I've not been able to find much. It's another reason I'd prefer not to go down the metal route, I'm pretty good at kit bashing stuff out of plasticard, but less so metal. As for the period/subject I'd like to leave it pretty wide open if possible, which was one of the reasons oo/ho interested me. My main fascination is the forestry/logging industry but I enjoy every aspect of it from the UK to the US, Scandinavia, even Russia, and from the old days to modern, so I was hoping to cater to a broad spread as the mood takes me! Tangential to that I also enjoy any similar industrial plant/construction/agricultural stuff. Eventually would like to do cranes and log loaders but thinking much further down the line really.

Hi folks, Been a while since I was active on here, my attempt at a 1/50 scale RC lorry stalled, and then life got in the way as it does. I'm tentatively thinking of having another go, but this time I am considering either 1/76 OO or 1/87 HO (possibly both). However, one thing I'd like to figure out before I make any decisions is what sort of models are available in these scales that are not diecast? It seems the majority of models covering the widest range of options are diecast and, to be honest, my experience of working with diecast models in the past puts me off the idea of trying it again. I would really prefer to work with plastic. It's primarily a painting issue, I have found diecast to be extremely fussy on taking a reasonable finish, where plastic is far more forgiving. I'd also consider resin or white metal, if available. I've heard that Herpa, Siku, and a few others do make plastic models in 1/87 but when I actually find any models from these brands online which are available in the UK they seem to always be diecast. I can't seem to find any plastic 1/76 other than military multi-part kits such as Revell, Tamiya etc. (which is fine, but limits you to Scammel and Bedford lorries used during WW2). I have a feeling this is something of a wild goose chase and I may have to figure out a way to overcome my aversion to diecast, but I thought it was worth exploring alternatives, so if anyone has any info it'd be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Paul

Thanks Giles, seem to have sorted things now. With the electronics working it has shown up my previously prepared drive-shaft, drive axle and bevel gear arrangement as somewhat inadequate so it is back to the drawing board on the mechanical side! I've just ordered some more tubing of various sizes to see if I can jig up something better . Also awaiting delivery of my Servo from Micron to get the steering set up.

Hi Giles, Ah no I have not done this, how would I go about binding them? Ok, thanks for clarifying, which wires from the switch do I use to connect it?

Hi everyone, My project Scania lorry is going ok so far but I'm now at the point where I'm trying to configure the transmitter/receiver and have run into a problem. I also have questions about my circuitry and the on/off switch. So I'm trying to follow the programming instructions here. I follow these steps: Invoke programming mode: 1. Switch Transmitter on. 2. Ch3 (Elevator) should be normal, not reversed. 3. Hold left/right sticks (Ch2/4) in towards middle of Tx (use rubber band if necessary). 4. Switch Receiver on and wait for the Led to flicker very fast. 5. Center all sticks. What happens is I do get the LED on the receiver flickering very fast, it is orange but I'm not sure if that matters? Once I center all sticks, however, nothing changes. The light continues to flicker at the same speed indefinitely. I can't seem to progress any further. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? As for my other questions; I have my battery lead connected on the red (positive) wire to the receiver with the re-settable fuse in-between this connection - is this correct? The black wire (negative) just goes straight to the receiver. At the moment I have not wired in my on/off switch as, frankly, I don't know where it goes or which wires to use - it has three; a red and an orange close together, then a brown one out on its own. Do I have to connect the switch directly to the receiver or simply along the circuit and which wires go where? Thanks in advance to anyone who replies!

Hi folks, back again with some questions! I've found a lot of components that have been suggested so far, but in several cases I'm a bit overwhelmed by various connector options or different models and variants of certain parts. So my shopping list at the moment is looking a bit like this: 1:50 scale Oxford/Cararama Scania Cab [Amazon] - ordered E-Flite DSM2 Transmitter/Controller [Giles] - purchased from Giles N20 RC Motor; 100:1 Gear Ratio; 6v; 90-100rpm [eBay] (£6.99) - seems ok? Small Bevel Gears - Nylon or Brass? Source? I've looked on eBay but everything seems large and expensive. Any ideas on refining the search terms? (measurements etc.) Deltang Receiver & Speed Control - I see Micron can supply these, as can a number of other websites, and of course the Deltang site. I saw the Rx43d and Rx45 were recommended for land vehicles but I'm not sure which variants exactly to go for in terms of how many reversible ESC's? I did say I just wanted forward, reverse, and steering but I'm now wondering if I should go for some future-proofing in case I want to add lights or sound later on? If so, which model would be best? LiPo Battery 500-700mAh [Micron] - I see there are differences in discharge rate and size, I'm not really sure what is preferable in terms of discharge rate? Any particular recommendations? Also I'm assuming the Micron USB charger will be ok? However, I don't know what to choose from the different selection boxes but I suppose this depends which battery you go for? 1.7g Steering Servo [Micron] - not sure which connector type to go for between JST-H and Molex Picoblade? On/Off Switch [Micron] - again, not really sure what to go for here, many options and connection types. In-Line Re-settable Fuse [Micron]

Hi Giles, Thanks for this! Buying your spare transmitter sounds like an ideal solution. I'll send you a message on here shortly to sort out the details - Paul

Hello all, I hope I'm not treading on anyone's toes by posting in this thread, but I thought it might be preferable to starting a whole new topic along similar lines. I am interested in getting into micro RC having seen some of those fantastic German 1/87 vehicles on the web. I've done a pretty extensive stage of online research into the subject at a number of different scales and ultimately found myself in this forum . I've looked at quite a few threads and videos, including those by Giles. I don't have any experience with RC at all, and not much in electronics (though I can use a soldering iron and have tinkered a bit with electric airsoft guns in the past, wiring in battery cells an the like). I'm fairly well versed in miniatures and modelling, however, with plastic kits at a range of scales and 1/64 diecast cars. I am thinking of opting for 1/50 scale for a number of reasons; - it's relatively cheap - it is similar in size to 1/64 scale I am familiar with - it should be larger and more spacious for installing parts than 1/87 or 1/76 (both of which I find the idea of working with a little intimidating, at least as a beginner in RC conversion) - lastly it's my understanding that it's one of the better scales for my main area of interest: forestry, plant/construction, and farm machinery, as I believe there's quite a wide range of manufacturers and models to choose from. It's important that I can keep such a first project as low cost as possible (I am prepared to spend more money later when I'm not so green) and an issue I'm having is choosing an appropriate transmitter. I understand that Deltang components are preferred for 1/76 and 1/87 and this means a DSM2 transmitter is needed. I found one on ebay second hand for £25 but unfortunately someone else snapped it up and I can't really find anything else for less than £70. I really can't justify spending more than around £30 on a transmitter at this stage. I was wondering whether at 1/50 scale vehicles would be sufficiently sized to accommodate components larger than the Deltang stuff? This would mean I could use a different protocol and perhaps find a cheaper transmitter to work with? I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or suggestions along these lines. Assuming that's possible, my basic plan is to get the Oxford/Cararama 1/50 plain white Scania truck and semi trailer with a view to a VERY basic setup (literally just forward, reverse, and steering, no lights or anything else) using a 6v N20 motor geared to about 100rpm. I'd then look at converting the trailer into either a log trailer or a flatbed. Does this sound at all plausible? Looking for any and all advice, thoughts, comments, feedback etc. Thanks to those who read the whole thing! -Paul