Ste Worthy

Hi all. Just a quick update. I think I'll call that job done. New ETH boxes added each end, and the old bufferbeam mounted one, painted out on the left hand side of the right hand buffer on each end, to disguise them, as they proved impossible to remove. Fully piped at one end, with the coupler retained at the other. Buffers greased, using a mix of dirty black paint, and weathering powders. Scorch marks from a recent bogie fire added, once again using weathering powders. The ScotRail logos were dulled down with a wash of heavily thinned dirty black paint. I attempted to remove the body to swap the cab interiors around. A word warning, don't. This was by far the fiddliest body I've ever removed, and during the faff, I lost a couple of small detail parts. Two of the mounting screws are located under the leading edge of each bogie. They're a pain to get out, and even worse to put back in. I'll probably not bother giving it a coat of matt varnish, as to do that, I'd be better removing the windows, and for that I'd have to remove the body again, so it ain't happening. Although it isn't 100% correct according to the real thing, it'll do for me. Just a shame I can't model some deep red flames, coming out of the exhaust.

Bought one a week ago, and am in the process of renumbering to 47707, and back dating to it's Eastfield days. I had the preprinted NSE logos and numbers off within ten minutes, as well as the castles, and one of the Westies, as it sat too low. The former location of the numbers and logos isn't too noticeable, and will vanish completely under a dusting of matt varnish.

Today I bit the bullet, and went with the T-Cut and cotton bud, and to be fair, I'm very pleased with how it went. The body is more distressed than actually dirty and once it's matt varnished, I think the areas where I removed the pre printed transfers, will be unnoticeable.

Hi all. Many thanks for the replies. 37039 is now done and dusted, and while nowhere near the standard of a lot of models on here, I'm quite happy with it. The white stripe on the real 37039 was 3" thick according to a former Driver whom worked there in the 80's. In the end I used the Bachmann ploughs, but mounted them to the chassis. The car headlights were difficult to source, but help came from a model shop in Berlin of all places, who was selling small cast ones on eBay. Twenty quid including postage got me enough headlights to complete 267 models! They're nonfunctioning of course, but I'm happy with the effect. On the number one end I tried to replicate the old black showing through the yellow pain on the Drivers side headcode box, and the patch of rust from a hasty repair to the left of the Drivers side buffer, both visible on photos the real thing from that time. All the best.

Hi all. I've just purchased the superb Kernow limited edition 47706, and plan to do a little work to back date it to its final days at Eastfield. I plan to remove the numbers, nse logos and Haymarket castles, before adding then distressing the nameplates, and Scotrail logos. My question is, does anyone have any experience of renumbering factory weathered models? I'm presuming that the T-Cut method I plan to use will also take off any weathering effect, as this will have been applied last whilst in the factory. Does anyone have any hints or tips as how best to touch in any removed weathering, without overdoing it on the unaffected parts of the model? I'm moderately skilled with an airbrush, but do think the areas maybe too small to touch in with that method. Best wishes, and thanks in advance.

Hi Martyn, and thanks. Those dots are exactly what I'm after. I'll do some more perusing of that site, and see if they can provide the stripes too. Many thanks.

Hi all. With the exception of some random weathering jobs, I'm just getting myself back into the modelling hobby after an absence of about fifteen years. The hobby has taken great leaps forward during my absence, and I do feel it has probably left me behind a touch. My first project on the workbench, a simple job to start, is a Bachmann split box Class 37, which I intend to re-work as 37039, as it was at the time of this picture. https://www.flickr.com/photos/60566499@N03/19897167489/in/photolist-wjfbFT-2jnpJ1G-7EGDzJ-2gYpEZp-dbgtJD-NbvSNF-MkBnU2-2gL6v9F-c1irn9-JLEzLD-aAsKif-bY9cVS-nSDpMf-rRoe2A-sXqw4p-rAKuTi-aQMiTi-JnMTiH-aLQxnP-bgQUS8-CGwjxY-oWAXcK-dG7i21-Yk5rxB-djvED6-2j96Rsu-2ihz3oY-Jys28M-2je3XGj-gdEe3w-ScjXwx-gS4S3A-gSx1Q9-fG2UsD-S73nVd-2iHKwbm-3LZuJ-g8rqsa-MeP9eh-2ijuUx7-bEMggx-dSYUME-2a2GLzp-RLdLzU-2iPUSkw-NsT21u-cJmboW-gQ5vxM-ATJx9g-2dVTVX4 37039 was a little unusual, in so much as although it had received plated over headcode boxes, it still retained its bufferbeam skirts. I've sourced the headcode panels, they're available from Shawplan, but am having difficulty finding decals for the grey dots the headcode panels feature. I'm sure Fox made them back in the day, but don't seem to be able to find them on their site. Also, does anyone have any experience of applying the white stripe that Eastfield 37's featured, around their waist. I'd rather use a decal for this, but am wondering about thickness. Fox do a pack (FG1061) but at 1.5mm, I wonder if this'll be a little too thick. The lining packs are a tad expensive for what they are, and I'd rather know, before taking the plunge, and potentially wasting money. Also, does anyone make the 'Halfords Headlight' that Scottish locos featured in the 1980's, or is it just best to buy a 1;87 scale rally car, and bodge the headlights from that? I also wouldn't mind fitting a decent set of ploughs to the loco, replacing the course Bachmann versions. Does anyone know of a suitable manufacturer? I apologise that my first post on here is nothing but questions, and I'm sure there'll be more, but do hope I'm not being too cheeky in tapping the wealth of knowledge this forum boasts. Many thanks, and best wishes Ste Worthy