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  1. The final major chunk of the tender body in place! Time to add detail. The differently designed door was a bit of a challenge, this is my third attempt which I think I will settle for hopefully I will have a complete tender by Christmas!
  2. Another step forward with the coal hopper fitted into the tender, the supplied ends of the bunker will be used after they are narrowed and made slightly taller. Regards coal rails I have cut out some 1.3mm strips from the 0.3mm sheet the tender was constructed from. Regards the cab doors I'm sorry for being stupid but I really dont understand what i need to change, HELP!
  3. A week since the last update but good progress I think! I now have something that looks a bit like a tender body and have managed to cut some 1.3mm strips off my sheet to build the coal rails with all in all I think a success! As ever comments welcome
  4. Thank you for the tips once again! I decided to work the motion as you recommended, that is until I realised I was short of tools which are now on order, and having motorised the driving wheels I realised the slop was worse than I had thought so new driving wheels on the way! To the plus my motor mount is successful holding the motor firmly in place whilst still easily removable once the axle is pulled out. I therefore spent time adjusting the footplate and chassis to fit together comfortably. I then turned my attention to the tender completeting the brake gear and then starting on
  5. Following your advice I have started to look at mounting motors, the neatest solution seems to me to be to mount it this way, is there a good reason that I shouldn't do this? I am aware that this obstructs the location of one of the plunger pick ups however I could drill new holes and mount them either here Or here The motor can then be anchored in place with this strip of scrap brass i have cut down for the purpose. I intend to add slots to this bar to prevent the motor from moving sideways. The advantage of mounting this way seems to be that all the motor
  6. So do I understand you correctly that you mean to turn the chassis upside down and work the bolt through from underneath, then fill those holes with Arldite? That was essentially the plan I had concocted but I though I needed to add these parts for some of the motion parts to seat into hence I was doing these now. I also was thinking to add the break gear first before tackling the motion? Or am I better to leave this until later?
  7. Good and bad today, a reasonable looking boiler to the Good but a little bit stuck to the bad. I have started trying to fit the cylinders to the chassis as shown in the image however try as I might I cannot get either of the bolts that should fill these holes to engage! Therefore I am wondering does this part need to be removable or can I simply get out the soldering iron? If not does anyone have tips for starting these m2 bolts?
  8. Apart from more longwinded but visually unimpressive work on the chassis my attention turned to the boiler. Step one was to replace the boiler band where the dome was originally to sit, this was done with modellers putty that was filed smooth when dry, its now smooth to the touch though usually unappealing however I think the simple cure to this will be paint! After doing a bit of research I found this picture of flying scotsman after restoration. For me the best way to simulate the rivet heads shown here was using the brass wire provided by hatchette as any repl
  9. More progress today, a footplate and a tender chassis making it look like a lot has been done and hiding the myriad of small parts that I'm in the process of adding! The bad new I have run into is that all sources I can think of are sold out of 0.5mm false rivets for my boiler top which unless someone can suggest source I have not tried I will be forced to use the dreaded wire technique which so many build logs have managed to avoid! Having printed out plans for the tender I have decided to scratch build the body of the tender from brass which is now en route to me, I have a
  10. If I could title a post then: 'whats that smell?' Would work well just here! Springs going well apart from a small incident with my desk and an overheated spring.... I'm not sure if now is the time to test fit my motor but the original edition 104 seems a little late.... so I was thinking now would be a good time in case my chassis needs tweeking. I bought a slater 1:30 motor which I was advised would be just the ticket for this loco the only point of confusion i have is how do I mount it?
  11. The steps there folded in from the bottom so I had to solder the inside as they were not a separate part, I made good use of that solder however as i was able to attach the additional step detail using them! Regards the tender exactly as doilum said I don't want to fork out for a complete new tender when with a little creativity I hope i can make a reasonably accurate replica! particularly when, visually at least, the chassis and running gear are virtually identical!
  12. Morning all Last night saw more progress with the rear chassis assembled an added to the loco. 450 degrees seems to do the trick, in my inexperienced view the soldering looks ok now! As my attention begins to swing toward the start of the tender I think that rather than scratch building from the chassis up I will attempt to kit bash the kit tender into a GNR coal rail tender. Plans from the Internet seem to indicate that the outside dimensions are within a wisker so I think I can live with that. As ever tips and advice are appreciated!
  13. So another session tonight saw there first test for my chassis, wheels fitted and tested running up and down my test piece of track, all promising so far, very free with no wobble in the wheels, which came as a pleasant surprise after the horror stories of the hatchette wheels! The I ran into one issue however in that the nut on one of the crank pins could not be persuaded to fit despite spending longer on that one than the others combined, is there a recommend manufacturer for a replacement? Regards soldering an increase in temperature to 450 degrees helped no end and free flowing
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