Jump to content

Matti8

Members
  • Content Count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

57 Neutral

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    Finland
  • Interests
    Scottish steam
    Suomen Valtion Rautatiet

Recent Profile Visitors

167 profile views
  1. Glad you liked the idea, Steve. It just happened to pop into my head while I was tracing the outline on plasticard. Besides strength my main intention was for it to provide a back to the valances. I like your method as well, it looks very strong indeed. Perhaps I will try it if I go for a 34 class or another with a long running plate in the future. On another note I got along with the cab sides. Should I glue the stripping around the cutouts before or after I glue them to the cab front? Matti
  2. I decided to have another go using the advice given. I absolutely scrubbed the thing inside and out as well as giving it another light sanding. Yet still will not melt at 380ish after applying. Very strange, perhaps there is a setting that needs changing or perhaps I did not tin the iron properly? Anyways thanks for any help, Matti
  3. The tip looks to be about 1.25mm. I have handled it but not around the joint. I should probably look into a fiberglass brush either way. I am using Slater's Liquid Flux which is 9% phosphoric.
  4. Hi, I bought a new iron not long ago and I just got around to trying it out. I'm a beginner to building brass kits. But I had a wagon which I figured was simply enough to try it out on. First joint here using 145° solder with flux and my iron set at 345°. It produced almost an immediate "blob joint" and would not spread. I set the temperature around 100 degrees higher and was able to get it to flow a bit more which produced what you see in the picture. It's very messy and I shouldn't have had to use that much solder. So the question is: how do I get it to flow? What am I doing wrong?
  5. Looks great, John. After a quarter century you don't show a bit of rust! Silver Tay Models on eBay do some fine looking nameplates/numberplates all in one etch. Unless you have the equipment to do that sort of thing yourself, of course. Matti
  6. I have cutout a few pieces already. The running plate is made of two layers in order to provide enough strength. The marks on the top are burns from solvent based adhesive which I will be very wary of when using again. Thankfully it did not cause any real damage as I was able to sand it smooth. The cab front is alright although it still needs some tweaks like opening up the spectacles a bit. I also did one side of the front splashers. I can't believe that it looks so nice but I am not looking forward to mak
  7. Sorry for there being no updates as I've had very little time in the past few months. Finishing up school has been my main priority. I am still waiting on solder! In the meantime I got so fed up of sitting around that I decided something had to be done. Of course the obvious answer was to start another project (eye roll). This one will be a Caley 652 specifically 17631 as numbered by the LMS. I am using plasticard because I was really inspired by @Londontramand his charming scratchbuilds. Matti
  8. I've been looking for one with no luck. It doesn't matter if it's built or unbuilt. Condition as well is not really a factor I'm prepared for any work even if you don't have the whole kit! I don't know if I'm right but I'm guessing that those who look on here sometimes assume that people are asking for something free but if it was even a question I am willing to pay. Thanks -Matti
  9. The GNR type tenders were all spoked. The Gresley tenders started out with spoked as well but were soon substituted with disc. Hope that helps. Matti
  10. Here is a great choice for a branchline loco: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sparkshotcustomcreationsscc?section=4mm+L%26YR+Loco'+Bodies&s=0 Send him an email, he scales things up or down on request. There is also someone on Instagram who has just designed what your looking for but in 4mm. I asked him if he would rescale. Otherwise I would gladly scratchbuild a body for you to fit on a Märklin or Rokuhan chassis for probably much cheaper then cost to 3D print. My projects are on hold at the moment until I can get some soldering supplies.
  11. Do you have any specific locos and/or rolling stock in mind? I know some people who might scale down their designs for you.
  12. Jol is, as I have read, quite the fierce opponent of moulded boiler bands! However he is probably right. In theory they would be .001 in thickness to scale. But yes do as you see fit, I know of many people who prefer using electrical tape or Alan Gibson's offering. Matti
  13. I love your work with this. It's fantastic that such skilled people continue offer affordable 3D prints as they are a real blessing. Life is too short to scratchbuild every loco I want! But in my opinion you should really tone down those boiler bands as they look a bit Triang like. Matti
  14. Trix is Märklin's 2 rail DC range which offers the same locomotives. Their quality has really stepped up recently and I am very happy with what I have from them. Lilliput of course is excellent being a branch of Bachmann. Fleischmann is also great - all theirs are 2 rail. Roco, Brawa, Piko, and others are good and people speak highly of them but I usually only get rolling stock from them. Any specific loco class you are looking for? Matti
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.