Matti8

@Annie Nobody else wants to have any of these conversations either. So please can we all try not to say such provoking things?

Australia/New Zealand did a fine job at first of making sure Covid was at a minimum. In fact I known that it was probably the best countries to be in last year due to it having a very minimal amount of cases. However, this lockdown that happened recently there is absolutely silly. Do you not understand that this will never end? A coronavirus like any other virus will mutate like it has and will continue to. It doesn't just go away, it will always be here in some capacity. Tell me, would you gladly continue to go into lockdown over some new cases a couple years from now?

I hate that we even have to get into in depth conversation about Covid on a forum like this. But both of you are speaking foolishly. You cannot honestly say that the UK, AU or etc. is any better. Western countries are a joke and none have any moral high ground than another. You speak about some fair in the US yet ignore the World Cup nonsense with thousands crammed into a stadium. Then afterwards English fans cause destruction because they lose. It's really a "he who has not sinned cast the first stone" situation.

Ah, well that is quite ironic. Very interesting, thanks.

I was wondering what types of locomotives were stationed at Barrow and ran to it with passenger services? I am looking specifically at it in LMS service from 1923 to about 1935. Matti

I thought that I would make this post at a later date but as I saw someone was interested in one the other day I figured that I might as well do it now. There is a severe lack of resources for modelling Scottish railways. Especially the Sou-west. Perhaps it's time to change that. I have been thinking recently about the idea of producing a few models and the Drummond 403 in particular stood out to me. After reading about the interchangeability of parts with Peter's earlier 279 class I have concluded that it would be beneficial to have both available. The kits would be produced in either resin, plastic, or a combination of the two. Ready to take a gearbox and wheels of your choice. Now at this stage I would like to ask you all to please express any interest in this project! If there is sufficient demand I will make it happen. Regards, Matti

I don't know if your in any kind of hurry to get one but I plan on releasing a resin kit in the next year or so. I have seen you on Twitter if I remember correctly so I will contact you there once they are available.

Hi, Paul Lovely looking layout. Where can I see more of it? Matti

It seems pre-built sheds are all the rage in the UK. I'm not from there and I don't know your situation but imho you should build one yourself. Because ever since the peak Covid months prices of materials and supplies have gone up. In turn these companies go out and charge ridiculous prices for building/delivering. If you bought the materials and built it that is easily the most economical route. I'd say you could easily fit it within your budget.

Hi, Terry I would take them off your hands but I am overseas and not sure how that works. Any idea? Matti

Exceptional Steve. Matti

A agree with Chris. Go on eBay and get yourself some of the Triang clerestory coaches. Cut them down and replace the roof with plastic sheet. That is absolutely the cheapest way to do it and a very acceptable one at that. I've seen some exceptional models made using this same process. Matti

I am no expert but possibly RAL 6011 Reseda Green should be given a look? It appears to be a good match but I have not tried it myself. Matti

I am getting along just fine Richard, thank you. I have learned quite a bit in my short time on here. Regards, Matti

Hi Richard, Great work as always. I believe he is speaking of Phoenix Precision Paints. Perhaps one of these? https://www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/products/chimneys Regards, Matti

I need a chassis for the Bachmann J11. Does not matter which version. Condition is not much of a factor either, can be missing motor and wheels even. The chassis block is the most important thing. Matti

Alright, thank you. It is obviously not a good option. I also see that it is made of plastic - and if that's the case I'd be better off making a chassis myself! The Bachmann J11 looks like a treat but theres seems to be no spares available. Was hoping I would be able to piece together a chassis that way. I'd really hate to buy the whole loco. Hmm...

Hi Jason, thanks for the heads up. I could swap the motor although it looks like I would have to put a worm gear on the axle as well. Do you think that is a realistic option? As I've never owned one I'm not aware of any other possible restrictions. Matti

Thank you, Rob. That's quite helpful indeed. The Hornby N2 and J50 both have badly placed motors. However I do wonder if the Lima J50 has a prototypical wheelbase because that could be a option. The Bachmann J11, after looking at the chassis, looks to be the best candidate so far. Again, thanks. Good to hear from you Steve if anyone knows about this sort of thing it's you. My first thought was to use a generic Hornby 0-6-0 chassis. Out of all the ones you've kept track of does it seem to be the closest? Matti

Hi, I am in the process of scratchbuilding a Caley 652 over in the Kit & Scratch section. The prototype is 7'9"+9'0" which equates to about 31mm+36mm in 4mm scale. I am not aware of any RTR chassis's that fit that exactly but what is the closest out there? I imagine that I have a margin of error of a couple millimetres. Any help would be much appreciated. Matti

In a months time I have accomplished a decent amount (at least for my standards). The beading went on after much fuss. It was such a horrible process, in fact, that I would not wish it on my worst enemy. Here is the cab sat on the running board nearly awaiting an interior floor and roof. I did not take pictures of boiler construction but there was not really much to see apart from some ridiculous looking jigs which I put together. But here it is placed into position. Seeing it this way is very pleasing as it gives me the illusion that there isn't much more to do. I started the wingplate as well but I might redo it. That's all for now! -Matti

Glad you liked the idea, Steve. It just happened to pop into my head while I was tracing the outline on plasticard. Besides strength my main intention was for it to provide a back to the valances. I like your method as well, it looks very strong indeed. Perhaps I will try it if I go for a 34 class or another with a long running plate in the future. On another note I got along with the cab sides. Should I glue the stripping around the cutouts before or after I glue them to the cab front? Matti

I decided to have another go using the advice given. I absolutely scrubbed the thing inside and out as well as giving it another light sanding. Yet still will not melt at 380ish after applying. Very strange, perhaps there is a setting that needs changing or perhaps I did not tin the iron properly? Anyways thanks for any help, Matti

The tip looks to be about 1.25mm. I have handled it but not around the joint. I should probably look into a fiberglass brush either way. I am using Slater's Liquid Flux which is 9% phosphoric.

Hi, I bought a new iron not long ago and I just got around to trying it out. I'm a beginner to building brass kits. But I had a wagon which I figured was simply enough to try it out on. First joint here using 145° solder with flux and my iron set at 345°. It produced almost an immediate "blob joint" and would not spread. I set the temperature around 100 degrees higher and was able to get it to flow a bit more which produced what you see in the picture. It's very messy and I shouldn't have had to use that much solder. So the question is: how do I get it to flow? What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Matti