Neil0202

Hi All, Thought i would share how i automated my level crossing gates without using servos, quite simple using slow motion Tortoise Motors at 5Volts, nice speed at 5V I used Wills Kit SS56 kit Here is the link:

Hi all, i was looking to do a ghost sign ( faded deteriorating painted sign) i noticed there are a few transfers about as well as a Liptons Tea being sold by a model supplier, so i got my thinking cap on and came up with the Beefeater Gin Logo, i emailed a guy on ebay who was supplying lasercut signs cut from Mylar, so i asked him to shrink it down to 85MM across x 25MM high, just about right to fit on the gable end of a model building of mine, so i sort of positioned it where it was pretty central in terms of left to right, so i masked out the building and applied some off white emulsion, being water based if i made a dogs dinner of it, i could simply wipe it off and start over, so i dabbed thinned white emulsion with a small piece of sponge, taking most of the paint off the sponge, kind of dry dabbing so to speak, let it dry, positioned the stencil in the correct place, fixed it with masking tape & proceeded with the application of the red paint, once again, a tester from B&Q, dab painted it and let it dry When i removed the stencil, the red paint had bled into itself on some of the lettering, as this was a Slaters Plasticard brick effect it was not one dimensional, it was raised and recessed, otherwise i would have just got a transfer to stick on a flat surface, so i just got a fine paintbrush and dabbed white spots etc where the red letters had bled into each other and appeared to be joined, soon rectified it as well as adding more white paint dabbed onto the red letters themselves to try and create the flaking paint kind of look, i'm happy with it Neil

Regarding Rail match Sleeper Grime, does anyone know what the Vallejo Model Air equivalent is, or is very close to?

Thanks for the explanation If anyone is trying to locate 100 ohm speakers try DCC Supplies, Worcester

Hi Richard, thanks for your response, I have purchased a 100 ohm base reflex speaker complete in a enclosure as the standard Bachmann one does not have one, I did cut away alot of the fan housing and tried to seal the existing speaker to the underside of the 37 with blue tack trying to direct all the sound via the fan aperture, I await the delivery of the new bass reflex speaker, so is a 'reblow' a new sound file to overwrite the older file? Regards Neil

Hi, i have a Bachmann 37-693, looking to improve the DCC sound which has a loksound v3.5 with 100 ohm speaker, i really do not fancy completely gutting it down to the chassis, is it possible to cut into the fuel tanks from the bottom and remove the weight from the bottom? On the breakdown drawing on the Bachmann data sheet, it looks as if the weight is screwed from the top into the fuel tanks, so would cutting the bottom out allow the weight to come out? Any advise greatly appreciated 32-355.pdf

Hi, thanks for the response, as i understand it i have been mailed the following: RJ45 to RJ45 CURLY CORD - BLACK 5M - Configured 1278 This particular cord is not working on the controller Neil

Hello all, sorry this is quite a few years over due, however, i too have the annoying long cable from Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2 to the Handset, having Googled it to death, i found a super cheap UK supplier of RJ45 Double Ended Curly Cords, the gentleman at BCE products was very helpful trying to establish what cord i needed as they sell 3 different options of pin outlets Today Monday 7th September, such cord arrived, But.......when plugged into the controller got the error meassage SVDA or what ever it is I called Gaugemaster and spoke to a Teckky, who emailed me the following: Thank you for the call earlier today, with regards to the pins on the DCC02, It uses all 8 but is wired in a mirrored 4 way wire system. Which means that if you by a 1-4 pin of a 5-8 pin cable the controller will still work. The thought here is that the curly cord, although a space saving idea, is not the best cable to use as when you extend the cable you will put strain on the plugs or even pull the base unit along from where it is situated as it is not very heavy. To me this email doesn't really mean anything as i don't quite get the technical part of the connections on the RJ45 cable I forwarded this to the guy at BCE Direct and i am awaiting his answer, hopefully he understands the connectivity and can advise of the correct cable, Here is the link to the 3 Curly Cord Options: https://www.bcedirect.co.uk/search?q=RJ45+Curly+cord If anyone is technical and knows which pin option would work, can you kindly let us all know Regards Neil