BernieL

Not specifically the 4 pin, but contains a link to a generic instruction to a) build your own stay alive and b) find the correct solder pads on your decoder. https://www.modelrailforum.com/threads/diy-guide-how-to-fit-a-stay-alive-capacitor-to-Hornby-r8249.21076/ Note some comments tho, easier to buy a replacement decoder with a stay alive. Internal space could also be a problem. My limited understanding is that the capacitors need to be rated higher than any expected voltage, so the 16 volt stated in the article may be too low. I have an 0-6-0 jinty and an 0-4-0 sentinal type with 4 pin decoders, and both run fine on DC but are very skittish and noisy when on DCC at slow settings on a test track. Suspect I need to tweak CV like start volt, minimum speed etc and others to get it better, but being a newby with minimal experience, not up to that fiddling yet. Another option is to add a permanently coupled shunting wagon with extra wheel pick ups, especially as the 0-4-0 sentinel has a very short ~25 mm wheelbase which does not like dead frog express points at all.

Wow, a very impressive publication and brilliant contributions. I have just asked to become a subscriber. As a beginner in the wild world or model railways, these are inspirational and seem to be achievable goals to start out.

As grriff says, Yes, in that you must maintain consistent polarity and No, the wires are not direction dependent. Also unlike DC, I don't think you can use a common return path with other circuits on your layout. There are a lot of discussions about interference with the control signals in the circuit and the extra current involved needing equal resistance on both sides.

Very tricky is DCC ready. I am new to this and found DCC ready does not mean DCC easy. Hornby seems not to mention the type of connection in the instructions or the box. Have to take it apart to see. Also the two Hornby 4-6-0 tender locomotives I have, Grange and a Std 4 are completely different mechanically so doing one, does not help doing the other. Bachmann says 'DCC Ready 8' on the box, but the only mention of DCC in the instruction is that if I install a chip it will void the warrantee. The DCC concepts direct 8 pin is tiny, so it did plug in without issue, although all my models have loads of room . My hassle was undoing the tiny screws even with a #0 philips head screw driver, separating the tightly fitted components and then getting them back together. Do they deliberately put the screws in the most inaccessible places? The easiest so far is DJ models/Kerno 1361 tank, which is a very tiny locomotive, but so easy to DCC chip: remove the magnetically held smoke box door, pull out the socket, replace the blank with a 6 pin chip, and then push it back in. Why can't they all be like this?

This is so true. I have tried to join rails with a soldered piece of wire. Works electrically, but very hard to align vertically & horizontally while soldering and it has to be accurate in 4 places. And this works to provide the alignment. Half a rail joiner will slide into the new track completely, then slide back over the gap after the new track is put in place.

The most annoying feature of the powercab is the two different cables. Flat one with 6 wires for Powercab use which is untidy, gets in the way, is often twisted and looks ugly. And the 4 wire curly cable which is much neater when used as a throttle. Nice to know that after market suppliers have created 6 wire curly cables.

Check very carefully. The power cab set up is for low volt and current only. I am certain that you can't just replace the original NCE power supply with a higher volt/amp unit. You need a booster and a power supply, then plug the powercab into the booster throttle input with the curly cable, it then acts like a procab (throttle). NEC sell the SB booster (make sure to get the correct one - not the DB) and power supply. DCC concepts also sell a compatible booster and power supply. Both of these take the power cab as a throttle, using the curly cable and you no longer need the original power supply and socket. Do not plug the NCE SB or DCC concepts power supply directly into your powercab. I think the wording is that you can use your powercab with these upgrade units, but can't use these units on your powercab. Another alternative is to keep the power cab, flat cable and original power supply as is, and plug into a booster that has a 'track feed' input connector, where the power cab lines to the track are diverted into the booster.

Welcome from a fellow new modeller. One note I picked up here mentioned several times is "rule #1" it is your railway so enjoy.

Hi, the ATX power supply is sold as a replacement, upgrade or repair for a PC. It is not intended as a general power supply and does not work unless wired correctly to simulate the internal switch and power good connections on a PC mother board. The internet has loads of instructions on how to convert them for general use. Some are dangerous even opening the box and installing switches etc inside the case. Fascia panels with sockets and external connectors are also commercially available to do this conversion. Some also suggest combining the +12V and -12V outputs to get 24V - (not sure how this works with the different amperage).

The product looks delightful, very small compared to a Jinty. Kernow did a great post pack with a sturdy box lined with cut to size foam to protect it for the journey to Melbourne on top of the original product packaging. Being a beginner, I opted for the recommended Bachmann 6 pin decoder and paid for fitting. On arrival the loco was dead. The decoder is easy to access by pulling on the smoke box door held on magnetically and taking out the decoder and socket with tweezers. I replaced the blanking plug and away it went on both DC and DCC power. Noticeable are the very fine pins on the Bachmann decoder compared to the blanking plug, (other RM web posts say the same). Kernow support is brilliant via email and made some suggestions that got the decoder installed loco running. These suggestions included jiggling, decoder reset and some CV changes. Warning, it comes preset with momentum, so when first jiggling it went off at full speed, the momentum was too slow to stop it and being a newby it took me too long to hit the red button so off the end of the track it shot. How far can a coupling hook bounce, where should I look for it? The very small wheels and rigid chassis mean it picks up every track defect.

Spot on, Use one row per item and one column for each unique fact. Spreadsheet (Excel) is easy to set up and modify as you go, so very quick start. Use the filters to find items, and take care with deletions, moves, sorts etc to make sure the whole table is selected. Access may have more power and capability, but takes skill and ages to develop, takes much longer to get to use it, and is harder to update. Access is also version dependent, so need to keep the software up to date.

Share your pain, soldering is certainly a dark art. I have found that roughing up the surface with the dremil or sand paper helps and it must be very clean. Rail will have a tarnish on the bottom and sides that must be removed before soldering. A significant discovery causing me problems was the 'flux in a pen' product I was using which is a great flux dispensing method. But not written on the actual product but on the web page I found it was 'de-soldering flux' which causes the solder to form little balls to facilitate removal. A trap for young players.

Hi, I have been inspired by reading RM web for many years. Thanks for a wonderful reference library to the hobby. An avid railway fan as a youngster with a Triang Princes, but life happens. Now retired and living in lock down in the Eastern suburbs of Melbourne Australia, I finally started modelling. A fan of steam era, I like Stanier LMS designs and BR std designs. I have visited the Severn Valley Railway twice now and am very impressed. An empty nest brings spare rooms. So, I am trying a shelf around the room layout, just a single line and single station to keep it simple (ish) and allow the room to remain usable. Not following any specific location, thinking of a fictional heritage railway to allow use of models that appeal and are available and/or on special (offer). Progress is slow while rework and injury are frequent so far. Everyone has their share of mistakes, I am just greedy. ;-)

I have exactly the same problem. The pins on the Bachmann 6 pin decoder are much thinner than the blanking plug of the DJ models 1361 loco. The decoder is a very loose fit and needs a jiggle to get it working. Then the loco stops frequently on rail joiners as this seems to jiggle it loose again. Thanks a good tip, I will try this and let you know, Bernie. Everyone has their share of mistakes, I am just greedy.